Auto Pro's? Towel Sprout or Soil Sprout?

[Rootsruler]

What is your preferred method of seed germination for autos? Is there one way that you prefer? Why?

Going2fast

You've been awesome with the seed giveaways. I've received Scarlet Grapes, Razzbergers, Scarlet Runtz and Hot Cakes I'm setting up for a production run in the 5 x 5 to run some femmed photo periods but prior to that I want to start off with the auto seeds you sent me and try and time it so that I can harvest the autos prior to flipping the photo's.

Since you are the breeder, I was hoping for some specific tips that you could give me for the particular cultivars you sent me. Is there any difference in their care that I should know between each cultivar?

I've decided to run 2 of each so 8 plants total. Media will be Kellogs Patio Plus Premium Organic Potting Mix with 30% Perlite mixed in. Media is wood chip based and amended with bat guano, poultry manure and kelp meal. 3 gallon cloth pots. Pots will be filled with 30% compost at the bottom and potting mix for the rest. I've never used the compost but I'm told it's fairly hot so I decided to setup a soil horizon hoping that when the tap hits the compost she'll be starting to flower. For fertilizer I'm going to run a cocktail that I setup for a newb auto grower that worked out well. He had bought some ferts from his local hardware store. Alaska Morbloom and Fish fertilizers. I setup a blend that came out to 5-6-6. I'm thinking it would be best to run water only and use the soil nutrition for the first couple weeks then start laddering up the fert concentration from 1/4 to 1/2 to 3/4 to full. I may not have to use the ferts depending on how effective the compost is so I'm going to take a wait and see attitude but at the first sign of deficiency I'll come in with the ferts.

Opinions appreciated!

[Gingerbeard]

Flush new/hot soil before using as seed starter.
Coco is good-to-go from the get-go.

[Rootsruler]

The hot mix is at the bottom of the bag so I don't need to worry until the tap hits the super compost. The media is wood chip based so a little different from a coco run.

[golfnrl]

24-36 hours in a shot glass, then paper towel until 1/4-1/2" tail, then plant in solo cup, transplant to final home when the serrated leaves reach the side of the cup and roots show at the bottom. They get plain water for the first couple of days and then 1/4 strength nutes, all properly PH'd. I grow in 50/50 coco/perlite.

I bought all the stuff to make my own starter pods but haven't gotten around to trying it out. I have used rapid rooters but prefer this method. I use the same method for autos and photos.

[Rootsruler]

Thanks guys and gals!
.
I'll towel germinate my seeds then transplant into their final homes

[Gingerbeard]

Okay. I forgot my why. Why do I do what I do?
Every time you move a seed, seedling, sprout, or otherwise disturb the roots of a plant, you stunt its growth.

[Rootsruler]

[QUOTE=Gingerbeard;n639691]Okay. I forgot my why. Why do I do what I do?
Every time you move a seed, seedling, sprout, or otherwise disturb the roots of a plant, you stunt its growth. [/QUOidd
So if I plant the seed in it's final pot It should be okay?

[Gingerbeard]

That's what nature does because that's what I do. We don't get down with transplanting and all that jazz.
I've done towel. I've done towel to solo to one gallon to final like a lot of these crazy kids are into. Obviously, it works. But what I said before about stunting is still true.
If I have more seeds than pots, I put multiples in pots and pull the slackers. I plant them far enough apart or put a piece of cut-up plastic bottle as a divider between the seeds so that if two in a pot are slackers, I can, perhaps... wait for it... transplant from a pot that has two champs.

[Smallgrow]

I just swore off the paper towel for autos, after having germination problems. Lack of oxygen and too much moisture is a fundamental problem with the PT method, although obviously lots of people do it successfully and many seed banks recommend it. In fact I think I won’t use it for photos anymore either.
Plant in final pot for autos is how I will go from now on.

I agree with the beard about how nature does it, but it should be considered that almost every other type of plant commercially grown gets up potted as standard practice. I feel like thousands of professional growers and scientists probably know what they are doing.

[Gingerbeard]

For PT method, a couple drops of H2O2 solve oxygen problems.

Pros of up-potting:
1. Grow spaces. It would be electrically beneficial for me to start my plants in a smaller tent under a lower watt light.
2. Remove the slackers before they wind up in the final pot.
3. Mobility. When starting small, I was able to move my plants outside when the sun was in my favor, and back inside for tent action.
4. Some folks say plants grow more robust after being allowed to get a little root bound before moving up. Think about buying seedlings at nurseries. When you pop out a tomatoe plant, it's a mass of roots. Something Grandma taught me was to score a bound root ball before transplanting to encourage more roots.

[Rootsruler]

I don't like using H2O2. Kills off the necessary microbes that are on the seed itself. I'm thinking just use the vertical germinator I have and sprout and transplant but I'm trying to limit the times I transplant to reduce transplant shock.

[Bluey]

Mine are always slow to start which is no issue with photos but worried about the autos so watching closely

[Gingerbeard]

What is a slow start? Seeds break surface in 3 days with coco, if I plant them 3/4ish inch down.

[Bluey]

Mine can take that long or longer, then sit there waiting for the second coming and giving me the shits just sitting there looking at me. I think they might need some music lights on like an alarm clock or something. I'm sick of looking at seedlings that just do nothing for a week or two. Since growing in coco I've been starting in big pots with different mixes of perlite and avoid transplanting. All my growing life I've grown outdoors in soil with regular seed and used seedling trays and the kitchen cupboard and window sill to get them started. Huge success rate that way. Moving to coco indoors has damaged my reputation and tested my patience enormously.

Actually it might be because the results from indoors are better quality all round and I'm losing track of time and reality somewhat. I need to keep a written diary rather than just flying by wire to avoid that. Sometimes I think & it feels like 10 days have past but maybe it's only 5.

[Gingerbeard]

Guess I never considered one took longer than another.
You should hear what they say about you when the lights are out. Girls can be so cruel!

[Gingerbeard]

Smallgrow Yes. Nurseries start small. But for every one of the plants you see in big pots, a number of the smaller get tossed for whatever reason and/or sold before they make it to the big time. It would be inefficient for nurseries to start in big pots.
It's like the apples you see in the store. You are seeing the best apples the apple people can produce. There are many others that went to the dried fruit and juice factories.

[Gator]

I'm not an expert, but soaking the beans for 12 hours in water in a warm place worked for me, planted them in soil on a Wednesday,got sprouts on Saturday morning, here we are at day 38 from sprout

[Going2fast]

Thank you Rootsruler for your wonderful grows. I really enjoy seeing their progress. For my beans and pretty much any auto I've ever run I'm going to give you the complete lowdown on my method. Please no slight intended to anyone's methods and I love seeing them . This is mine. And please do take this as my opinion. I truly want to see the methods and results people use.
Ok here it is.
Going organic the bigger the better for autos and photos. I use 5 gallons buckets with the top inch cut off so basically 4 gallons but 7 gallons is best if you don't want to supplement.
Fabric pots suck. There I said it. It's nearly impossible to saturate the middle of the pot once the roots get thick and they dry out too quickly. I know I read it in the 4 semesters of Horticulture class back in the 80s but it's bullshit. H2O! Plenty of oxygen in water as long as it doesn't sit stagnant and can drain.
I've learned that direct seeding autos is optimal. The less stress the better always with them. And direct seeding into the final pot. They absolutely do not like transplanting.
Ok lots of weird nutrient talk on this subject. Personally Ive seen too many plants killed with kindness to count. Autos don't need photos nutrient load. Less then half of that. I literally cringe when I see someone giving nutes to a plant that is less than 4 WEEKS old in soil.
Don't overthink it. Here's my recipe for dirt. Bottom third compost. Top two thirds miracle gro organics. Add 2/3 cup of dolomite lime. Hollow out a large cups worth at top and put straight MG soil for the seed to sprout in. If you can't get compost substitute with 1/2 cup standard 10/10/10 fertilizer from the garden center. 12$ for a 40 lb bag at Walmart. Don't overthink it folks. With this and keeping the ENTIRE planter moist you will not have to supplement bloom ferts untill well into the flowering stage.... trust me.
Fox farms sucks. Way too much ph fluctuation.
DO NOT TOP!!! Period. Autos do not like disturbances in the force.
Light LST is encouraged. Just don't try and keep things horizontal.
Light defoil only after bloom has started. As in nothing the first 3 weeks. Let her grow. Then only one or two leaves a day the first 3 weeks of flower.
If they look done give them another 7 days.
Ok for the strains you have.
Scarlet runtz is the most manageable as far as growth and nutrient needs. She's a cheap date.
Grapes is very sticky and has a tendency to stretch. 50/ 50 chance she goes full purple. Green will have citrus terps purp will be fruity.
Razzpergers and Hot Cakes get big. Both get hungry for potassium mid flower. Really loving both. Razz is cherry pez terps, Hot cakes is vanilla and cookie dough.
Let them tell you what they want. You are very educated on the craft so I know you can spot the signs.
And again thank you for the love👃👃👃👃👃🔥🔥🔥

[Smallgrow]

Awesome! thanks for sharing your system basics.

[Bluey]

A lot of what you say there resonates with me and I can relate, especially when it comes to stressing the plant.

Thanks

[Rootsruler]

Thank you Rootsruler for your wonderful grows. I really enjoy seeing their progress. For my beans and pretty much any auto I've ever run I'm going to give you the complete lowdown on my method. Please no slight intended to anyone's methods and I love seeing them . This is mine. And please do take this as my opinion. I truly want to see the methods and results people use.
Ok here it is.
Going organic the bigger the better for autos and photos. I use 5 gallons buckets with the top inch cut off so basically 4 gallons but 7 gallons is best if you don't want to supplement.
Fabric pots suck. There I said it. It's nearly impossible to saturate the middle of the pot once the roots get thick and they dry out too quickly. I know I read it in the 4 semesters of Horticulture class back in the 80s but it's bullshit. H2O! Plenty of oxygen in water as long as it doesn't sit stagnant and can drain.
I've learned that direct seeding autos is optimal. The less stress the better always with them. And direct seeding into the final pot. They absolutely do not like transplanting.
Ok lots of weird nutrient talk on this subject. Personally Ive seen too many plants killed with kindness to count. Autos don't need photos nutrient load. Less then half of that. I literally cringe when I see someone giving nutes to a plant that is less than 4 WEEKS old in soil.
Don't overthink it. Here's my recipe for dirt. Bottom third compost. Top two thirds miracle gro organics. Add 2/3 cup of dolomite lime. Hollow out a large cups worth at top and put straight MG soil for the seed to sprout in. If you can't get compost substitute with 1/2 cup standard 10/10/10 fertilizer from the garden center. 12$ for a 40 lb bag at Walmart. Don't overthink it folks. With this and keeping the ENTIRE planter moist you will not have to supplement bloom ferts untill well into the flowering stage.... trust me.
Fox farms sucks. Way too much ph fluctuation.
DO NOT TOP!!! Period. Autos do not like disturbances in the force.
Light LST is encouraged. Just don't try and keep things horizontal.
Light defoil only after bloom has started. As in nothing the first 3 weeks. Let her grow. Then only one or two leaves a day the first 3 weeks of flower.
If they look done give them another 7 days.
Ok for the strains you have.
Scarlet runtz is the most manageable as far as growth and nutrient needs. She's a cheap date.
Grapes is very sticky and has a tendency to stretch. 50/ 50 chance she goes full purple. Green will have citrus terps purp will be fruity.
Razzpergers and Hot Cakes get big. Both get hungry for potassium mid flower. Really loving both. Razz is cherry pez terps, Hot cakes is vanilla and cookie dough.
Let them tell you what they want. You are very educated on the craft so I know you can spot the signs.
And again thank you for the love👃👃👃👃👃🔥🔥🔥

AWESOME!

Thank You my Brother! I'm going to be watering using the Fertigation technique similar to what Bluey does with his so I'm not so worried about having the volume of biomass in the pot and is also why I'll be feeding ferts. I hear you on the soil having enough nutrition to feed the plant so I'll start out with a very weak solution, maybe 1/4 dose, and see how she reacts. I'll take your info and start feeding nutes around week 4.

Thanks Again!