demoralized here.....

[apacin0]

Damn I can't keep track of which plant is auto/photo. Yeah generally autos don't veg for 13 weeks, so there isn't time for training. I don't know crap about growing autos, so not sure what would prolong switch to flower.

[Bluey]

Plenty of people not only train autos but also top them and do so quite successfully.

[Weedfreak]

I harvested a White Widow auto and didn't top/train that. But I did only get a half ounce off it. I suppose I could have gotten more. I was under the impression that the autos just flower automatically, like the name implies, but I guess I have some learning to do.

[Weedfreak]

Big update. So last week, I figured I had nothing to lose except some plants that I neglected in their early stages, so I trimmed some excess fan leaves on my girls that are flowering. I'm hoping to get some chunkage happening. THey don't seem to be responding. My Autos are in their 13th week and the buds are weak af. My photo is starting her 15th week today. I see some red stems and some yellowing leaves on her so I've been giving her a cal-mag supplement and got rid of some of her big leaves too. She and one of the auto are in the tent for some 12/12. Her buds suck as well. I topped her once when she was young but didn't bother with pruning. AND to top it all off, I was attempting to LST her auto tentmate and broke of the very top cola. SO I stuck the top in some rooting hormone and coco/perl/verm and hope for the best. Just when I thought it wasn't possible to fuck things up more.....

[Rwise]

Dont expect much from an auto clone, it can be done but you cant turn her clock back, maybe set it back 2 weeks (or so) due to shock. It can be and a learning thing, good luck!

[Weedfreak]

I also have a 7 week auto that I'm LST . It's about 8"-9". Is that normal? All these tutorials are saying autos take three months to mature, but my buds are so lame. I'm feeding them all the time.

[Rwise]

There are now autos that finish in less than 60 days, and others that go 120+, some that get only 18" tall with others 48"+

[Bluey]

Your early days of flower but looking closely at them the node spacing appears to be on the larger side which typically means low light levels and possibly not enough air movement.

I'd sort your nutes first though. Careful with calmag once in flower, it can easily stuff your buds if you give too much or too long after flowering starts.

[Gingerbeard]

If 7-week is an auto, I am an auto. Or 7-week is an auto that forgot it is an auto. Topping will not keep your plant from flowering.
Whatever the case, iff all things are equal, bum seed.

[Weedfreak]

Just a quick update. It's been a month since my last post. Got some nutes and upped my airflow and my girls are looking quite chunky. Trichomes are forming and should be good to go in a few weeks. My problem is with my photo. I have her segregated in a grow tent so she can be on her 12/12 schedule. She's in there with a SF1000 for light. The problem is that the tips of her leaves are browning. I tried LST her as best I can to keep her from the light. I also turned down the intensity of the light. Should I replace the light with the lamp grow light I got at Lowe's? I don't think it's nutrient burn cause the others are getting the same thing and they're thriving.

[Bluey]

Keep em going. Nice Buds.

I think you can improve a couple of things. Firstly you have a lack of decent light. Your growth suggests this.

Second the tips may be nute burn or a potassium deficiency indicated by the leaf tip chlorosis. It could be something else but can't diagnose it without knowing your medium, pH, what you're feeding it and EC.

They are budding up pretty well though so likely only a small change or two is warranted, nothing drastic.

It does not look like light burn to me so keep the light up to them.

[Weedfreak]

everything is growing in 6:3:1 coco/perlite/vermiculite. Ph is 6.5. Been feeding all Advanced Nutrients Coco Sensi Grow, Bud Candy, Big Bud, and molasses. The photoperiod in the tent has a Spyder Farmer SF1000. It also was exhibiting cal mag deficiency, but I haven't administered it the last couple of feedings. The other girls outside the tent have a SF1000 and the shitty Lowes lights set to red for the flowering phase as supplementary light since I have them any way. Should I flush since they only have a couple weeks left anyway( the photo in the tent, that is)?

[Bluey]

Don't flush

Drop your pH to 6.0 then back to 6.2 +/- 0.1

That should help.

How much nute?

Probably reduce it but I don't know.

[Gingerbeard]

Weedfreak do some research on the pH recommendations for your nutrients. 15 seconds on the googler and I found Advanced recommends 5.5-6.3.
Something I read, somewhere, at some point, says molasses doesn't do anything for boosting sugar in coco. Something about needing the little biothingisms in soil to break it down for benefit.

[Weedfreak]

Everybody gets Coc Sensi Grow parts A+B 16mL/gal, Bud Candy 8mL/gal. I just stopped the Big Bud powder 2grams/gal.Thanks Gingerbeard.I was also giving the photo *mL/gal of CalMag supplement but stopped as the deficiency cleared up. I didn't know that about the molasses.Also Bluey, What is EC?

[Bluey]

It a measurement of how much nute your giving it.

If your giving g it the manufacturers recommended amount best you reduce that. Half to ¾ is typically a happy amount. More and you'll get nute burn mostly

[Gingerbeard]

Grinding my teeth at you people and your 1/2-3/4 recommended. If I give less, I get less. Anyone ever seen me with nute burn at my more than manufacturer's rec every time I wet my plants? It is true that if you do not give enough nutrients, you will not get nutrient burn. But if you do not give enough, you will not get what you can get.
Work up to recommended. Grrr... Coco is not soil.
Back to the pictures of a number of posts ago. The photos will not open on my machine. But I can still see your flowers are about to die from lack of nutrients because that is what they are supposed to do because they are at that age.
It's fine looking dope Weedfreak . Spot on. If you are having nutrient issues, I am having nutrient issues. And I am not having nutrient issues.
Been checking your trichomes?

[Bluey]

I grow in coco and do not get anywhere near the recommended amounts. If I did I'd get nute burn and more concerning nutrient lockout and the closer I get to the recommended amounts the more problems I have with the above.

At 80% of recommended in veg N toxicity starts to creep in in all the strains I've grown so far.

In flower its normally recommended to reduce EC last 2 to 3 weeks before harvest simply because the plant needs less.

That is my experience to date growing the way I do, but every grow is different of course and nutes are different too

[Weedfreak]

UPDATE:
so I harvested my one photoperiod and the results are less than great. Turns out I missed the detail where I was supposed to get rid of the excess runoff post feed. Which probably explains the extensive nute burn the plant experienced. Once again, my ignorance betrayed me. It's a learning process I guess. My question is can I use the same growing medium or should I toss it in the garden? My other girls are in the flushing process and I'll be harvesting next week sometime. But I want to put my clones in a bigger basket. I was just waiting for space to open up in my grow room. Before anyone says anything, yes ,I know they're react adversely to transplanting, but I had good results with the gals that are getting harvested next week.

[Bluey]

Wash or flush it till it runs clear and you get a zero EC reading. Keep pH close to 6 if you can and let it dry back a bit and flush it with a nute solution with calmag to suit the stage of growth for your transplant...so somewhere around 0.4 to 1.0 EC.

Remove the old roots as best you can. That's worked for me. Make sure the pot is full.

[Weedfreak]

What does EC stand for? Can I reuse my growing medium?

[Bluey]

You can re use it. EC stands for electrical conductivity and is a measure of the amount of nutes in your feed inputs. You measure it similar to pH, typically with an EC meter. Have a read of the GWE tutorials about how to get it right.

[Weedfreak]

Thank you Bluey

[Rootsruler]

You can use EC or PPM to measure the amount of ions in the water.

EC measures the ability of a solution to conduct an electrical current, indicating the concentration of dissolved ions. PPM measures the amount of nutrients in the feed solution.

They both do the same thing but use different ways of measuring it.