Originally posted by dirtymike
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As it is now, I 'm in a 10'x12' prefab shed that I ran electric to. It also serves as my studio space. I have fans and keep the windows open. I also have a portable AC/Dehumidifier/Fan floor unit. Last winter, I kept warm with a ceramic 400W heater. It kept a baseline 40degrees F on the really cold nights. I have the feeling, the lights will help keep it warm for the day, but I'm thinking what about is how to control the heat loss /ventilation. I don't want to waste energy and was wondering how to best deal with that. -
UPDATE. Girls are doing well and growing exponentially.Comment
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NICE! Thanks for updatingComment
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So now, I'm wondering if I should switch to a 12/12 light schedule. My Purple Chemdawg photo is older than my Game Changer autos, yet the younger Game Changers are starting to flower. THe Purple Chemdawg hasn't shown any signs of flowering. Should I go to a 12/12 or should I keep them on an 18/6?Comment
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For the Purple Chemdawg photo to flower you must change to 12/12s, ok 13/11 might work but 12/12s is for sure.Comment
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Looking nice! I also have a shed grow I started recently. I would flip it to 12/12, your plants are plenty big. Your seedling/clones should maybe be moved to a different spot staying at 18/6. Make sure to not leak light during that 12 hour of darkness. Good job and good luck!Comment
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I put everything on 12/12. I'll figure out something for the seedling/clones tomorrow. THanks.Originally posted by apacin0 View PostComment
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I got my 24"x24"x48" grow tent with my seedlings and clones in it. I'm a bit confused over all the holes that are in the sides. I figured out the top hole(light cord) the bottom hole(heating pad cord). But the side holes are confusing me. I get that one is for a exhaust hose. But what are the other two for? One is 4" dia. the others are all 6"dia. I'm going to the big box store to get a fan right now until I can afford a nice one. Any and all comments/advice are welcome and thank you.Originally posted by apacin0 View PostComment
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They are for however you need to use them.
My 2x3x4.5 was built for a closet. It sat in a corner and fit with only a few inches to spare under a shelf. The vents on back, top, and one side were useless to me as they were against a wall. Cables and venting went through the one open side.
6" holes are usually for venting. If you can't use a 6" to vent, the 4" will hold muffin fans and are enough to vent that tent closed, with the light off.
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Top hole is traditionally where you run your exhaust duct. Side holes near the top are for whatever you need like cords or you can run ducting from there too. Bottom holes can be used for cords or for more air input. Side flaps are for air input.Comment
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SO I rigged it with a 4"exhaust ducting and a small fan we had lying around, duct taped. I'll check later to see if it's really exhausting. My problem now is the light leak out the bottom of the air intakeComment
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I duct taped cloth over the side of the opening the fan was not: a valve. If you can vent to a side of the tent where there is no light (a few inches away from a wall) that helps a lot.
Remember, that little exhaust fan only needs to be on when the tent is closed with the light off. It will do nothing to a lit tent. -
I once used activated carbon filter pads, cut to size and doubled up (mine were thin), duct taped to the air intake vent. It blocked a little light and filtered the air a bit going in. Although the tape I was using kept ripping off the tent. Probably too much suction; I think I needed to open another vent.
It sounds like you're flowering outside the tent and vegging inside it. You could have your air intake face away from you flowering plants and put something opaque over to block the light a bit, but still have free air flow.
Also I think I would flower inside the tent and veg outside personally. That way you can have light on 24/7 in your shed without disturbing your precious girls. But your tent is not big enough for that.Last edited by apacin0; 09-21-2024, 09:10 PM.
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I once used activated carbon filter pads, cut to size and doubled up (mine were thin), duct taped to the air intake vent. It blocked a little light and filtered the air a bit going in. Although the tape I was using kept ripping off the tent. Probably too much suction; I think I needed to open another vent.
It sounds like you're flowering outside the tent and vegging inside it. You could have your air intake face away from you flowering plants and put something opaque over to block the light a bit, but still have free air flow.
Also I think I would flower inside the tent and veg outside personally. That way you can have light on 24/7 in your shed without disturbing your precious girls. But your tent is not big enough for that.
I'm thinking of putting the photo in the tent at 12/12 and everything else outside. Am I correct in believing that my autos can stay at 18/6 and still flower? THe purple chemdawg photo is not too tall and I believe it would do well in the tent by itself.Comment
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I found 18/6 gives better results than 12/12 for autos. And the biggie, you do not need to provide 100% darkness for flowering autos like you do photoperiod and feminized! Head to GWE main and search 'auto lights.'
The thing about your 4" fan is you need to make sure to not block the air as much as possible or you will overtax your fan and it will not be as efficient.C'mon, mule!
Coco/perlite
3x3x6Comment
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So we're 13 weeks along. Been giving nutes on the reg, yet my girls are looking very spindly. I'm blaming my neglect/ignorance during their formative stage. Any suggestions for fattening up?Comment
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Well earlier in veg you could have trained (e.g. LST, supercropping, topping...) your plant to widen up the canopy. With the natural Christmas tree shape you'll have to just add support for when the buds make it top heavy, depending on how fatty you make the colas.
Do you have more fans on them? Getting good air on them can strengthen up the stems. Plus you'll want really good airflow on the buds to prevent rot.Last edited by apacin0; 09-29-2024, 09:55 PM.Comment
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