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What is your biggest question about growing cannabis?
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This is a sticky topic.
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I'm assuming your goal is to "flush out" as many impurities as possible? My take is "flushing" your media does nothing other than remove whatever remaining nutrients and microbial life are in the soil stressing your plant out. I understand the want to not harvest with the phloem and flowers full of ions thus "contaminating" your oil but I prefer to taper down the feed solution so as not to stress the plant out at the end. Doing it this way will allow the plant to naturally pull whatever stored sugars it has in its leaves trying to makeup for whatever is lacking in the tapered feed solutions. That's were you see the leaves start to "fade" at the end near harvest.
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Unsure if this is the right place to put this, but I have a question about flushing after reading the site's article about it.
If I plan on making an MCT oil infusion with my harvest, is flushing recommended?
(Growing in soil, feeding weekly.)
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Thanks! This is all super helpful and confirms that I'd need to grow photoperiods indoors, so I'll be sticking to autos in pots outdoors for now.
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YesOriginally posted by BreezyGreens View PostI have questions.
My chaotic "system" works great for veggies, but would it work for photoperiod weed?
An earlier start would allow more veg time before the season changes and naturally flips to flower. The hard part is knowing when to "early start" them. I've been stung too many times thinking that there was enough light in the day to keep them from flowering so here in the US the days get longer around May-June. That's probably when I would attempt to plant them. If you can supplement whatever light hours you need with lighting like in a greenhouse start time won't matter.Originally posted by BreezyGreens View PostAlso, does an earlier start change photoperiods' veg-flowering cycle, or no matter what, outdoor grows are at the whim of the weather until October due to hours of daylight?
I would be more comfortable with 10 - 12 hour days of direct sunlight. Night time light allowance is no brigher than a full moon.Originally posted by BreezyGreens View PostFinally, do things like hours of shade from shifting sun angle as the growing season progresses and nighttime light pollution (year round; unchanging) throw off photoperiods' veg-flower cycles? When grown outside, do they need more than 6-8 hours of full sun for a solid veg cycle and pitch blackness at night?
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I have questions.
If I want to start weed the same way I do my veggies, is it possible to do that w photoperiods?
I see a ton of info on indoor growing setups and outdoor ones respectively, but there's virtually nothing on hybrid setups, like how gardeners in colder zones typically manage veggies and other tender annuals.
My veggie seed starting setup definitely doesn't generate as much light as is suggested for full indoor grows, and as my seedlings get bigger and the weather gradually warms, I harden them off outside on nice days starting in like April or May (bring them outdoors in the mornings, take them back inside in the evenings) before transplanting them permanently outdoors. It's haphazard, highly weather dependent (I live where snow in April is not unheard of, and our springs can have 7-10 consecutive days of chilly rain and drizzle); some days, they're out there the whole day, others, not at all. It's absolutely not the carefully engineered and controlled environments that indoor growers use. My chaotic "system" works great for veggies, but would it work for photoperiod weed?
Also, does an earlier start change photoperiods' veg-flowering cycle, or no matter what, outdoor grows are at the whim of the weather until October due to hours of daylight?
Finally, do things like hours of shade from shifting sun angle as the growing season progresses and nighttime light pollution (year round; unchanging) throw off photoperiods' veg-flower cycles? When grown outside, do they need more than 6-8 hours of full sun for a solid veg cycle and pitch blackness at night?
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I have extra seeds that I will not plant until next spring. Is it best to store in freezer, refrigerator or simply in a drawer in air tight containers?
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Unless you're breeding a cultivar indoors for years on end I don't see why it would change its morphology.
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I’m a newbie, having completed 4 grows with largely underwhelming results. I grow indoors, 32”x32”x5.5’ tent, 1 spider farms 1000w light, and all autoflower strains (mainly due to height constraint). I use nature’s living soil with fox farm bush doctor coco loco. I therefore water only. My plants seem robust but i have never been able to achieve large, dense buds. I instead get many small buds. I have used a timer on the light with 12/12 cycles, and also left the light on all the time. These are autoflowers but i wanted to see if it made any difference. Not that much. So, i have three primary questions
1. what is a recommended light cycle for autoflower strains? I know it doesn't affect the flowering transition, but is there a recommendation?
2. Is the living soil + coco loco a good approach or is something else better?
3. What else do you recommend to see large dense buds?
thanks in advance for any guidance you can provide!
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Plants started indoor must be "hardened" to the outdoor environment or they may die, even tomatoes. Not to mention bugs!
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Probably.
Plants and animals evolve genetically to adapt to their environments.
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Does long term indoors growing have any effects on the genetics of plant/seeds ability to tolerate outdoor elements?
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The person I'll be growing for is allergic to coco so I don't want to take any unnecessary risks but thanks, and I don't really care about having more yield as long as it's high quality
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Agree with Bluey. Coco will yield better overall due to its O² holding capacity but if you aren't on top of it you'll kill them quick. I know this because I've killed plenty being a lazy gardener. This is one of the reasons I grow in dirt.

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