Holiday Treats -(here we grow again)-

[Ckbrew]

Did you make the carving of the old man in the clay ball at the base of choco?

[BU2B]

Update 12: 8.16.21
Week 2 Day 6
I finished cleaning up the undergrowth today that was originally left in place to aid with photosynthesis and plant development. The girls are doing well. Even though BK had roots coming out of the net pot first, Choco has pulled ahead as she got her roots to the water first.

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Keeping in mind that ideal liquid temps in your DWC tubs is about 68f; the average water temp for these two since being placed in the net pots has been 75.6f While almost 10 degrees over the ideal liquid temperature they are doing perfectly fine - due to EXCEPTIONAL O2 saturation and aeration. Without this extra boost of O2 and aeration you would more than likely be looking at root issues even at this early stage of development.
Just a side note: the time for root shots is rapidly drawing to a close. As training starts training wire used to produce the structure will secure the lids in place making root shots impractical.

[BU2B]

Ckbrew Black is branches (but, yes described as you have) the black on the side branches does represent where a fan leaf would be. Grey represents removed fan leaves off of your two main branches and the green dots are flowering growth tips. In the example above there are 40 flowering growth tips - 44 if you count the 4 upward growing growth tips on the two main branches (represented as small circles) in the diagram. If allowed to grow out just one more node before growing upward the plant in the diagram above would have a whopping 68 flowering growth tips in just 8 weeks.

[Ckbrew]

To clarify your diagram, the black lines on the branches with a green dot at the base represent fan leaves?

[BU2B]

Ckbrew Yep, topped between nodes 3 and 4. I’m not really sure what to attribute their stocky nature to. Perhaps a combination of lighting and indica genetics? My plants have never stretched much except during the first 3 weeks of flowering.

[Ckbrew]

I take it that you topped between node 3 and 4 correct? I have never had a grow start with so little space between the nodes at this stage of growth. Mine are always more stretched out than what you have here. What is your secret to accomplishing this? Light?

[SoOrbudgal]

Beautiful roots

[BU2B]

Update 11: 8.13.21

The girls were both topped today. Here they are at 2 weeks and 3 days. Banana Kush on the left Chocolate Mint OG, right.




Net pots are currently about 1.5"-2" above the surface of the water. Tub liquid is 3.5 inches from below the lid. Within the next two weeks I will allow the liquid level in the tubs to drop until it gets to 3-4 inches below the bottom of the net pot.

At this point things are progressing right on schedule - I'll keep you posted on progress.

[BU2B]

Update 10: 8.10.21

The girls will be two weeks old in about 4 hours, so I'm counting the included photo as Week 2 Day 1 of the grow. The light has been moved down to 24 inches above the top of the tubs. I also added 3ml per gallon of MagiCal/CalMag to the Banana Kush. They've already well started on their on third set of leaves and will have their first topping more than likely before their second week is over. It's all up to them and how they're doing when they're developed enough to top. I find that week 2 or 3 is generally when the girls get their first hair cut; after that there will only be one more at the ends of of each of the two main branches from the Y.


The girls @ Week 2 day 1 (i.e., 15 days old) - BK & Choco

[panalilies]

Roots are gross lookin, but cute babies!

[BU2B]

Update 9: 8.6.21
The girls are 10 days old today and have had their first nutrients introduced with a fresh tub.

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[TOKABIGONE]

Eagle eyes sir! i couldn't see it until you pointed it out. Passed it by as a speck of dirt, lol.

[BU2B]

Update 8: 8.5.21

Here's a regular grow issue that can easily be addressed. IF you want to try and figure out what I'm talking about take a look at the two photos below, taken today, BEFORE you look at my response on the issue and how to fix it:

Banana Kush . . . . . . . Chocolate Mint OG

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BK looks good, nice to see some color. If you look closely at the CMOG you will notice that there is a small spot starting on the leaf to the left. As the girls haven't received any nutes yet it looks like the CMOG is going to prefer a bit of MagiCal/CalMag added to her first feeding. When I do a tub change, probably probably in the next few days, adding 1 - 3ml pipette of CalMag for each gallon is on my list for Choco. For the first tub change, tubs will be filled to 3-4 inches below the lid; hydroguard, ph Balanced water to around 6, 1 - 3ml pipette of each of the Flora Hydro Trio per tub (brown, green, pink) AND extra CalMag for Choco as she's saying she would like some. Plants will often 'grow out' of needing extra CalMag, once the plant is established and I've made my first topping, I generally start cutting back on the CalMag and see what she says about it.

[BU2B]

Update 7: 8.4.21

Okay, I've got a good buzz on and rambling seems appropriate (at the moment), so here are a few RANDOM thoughts on how and what I actually do when it comes to a grow. To be quite honest I've grown the way I do long enough now that even I have to stop and think sometimes before making a list for others. I find I just 'do them' without ever making note of them. If you find that to be the case during this grow, please let me know and I'll do my best to fill in the blanks.

• I know the DWC 'standard' protocol calls for a tub flush every 10 days. I haven't done this for years and find that being consistent with water temperatures, keeping a GAP between the roots and water levels, ph and nutrients as balanced as possible and GREAT not good or okay dissolved O2 can cut this down to requiring full tub changes ONLY 4 times during your grow. 1 on start, 1 when you first add nutrients (this will be once your plant has developed two sets of 'real' leaves - usually week 2 of your grow.), 1 when you change from veg to 'transition to bloom' or from veg to bloom if you don't do a transition and 1 final tub change when within the last 10-20 days and are adding Flawless Finish, Molasses or other finishing agent.
• This doesn't mean that if you have an issue with your plants you should not immediately do a tub flush and start from fresh, but I'd say for 20 out of 21 grows you'll find that four complete RESET and RESTART tub changes are all that are actually 'needed'
• If Growing DWC Hydro, it's my personal opinion that a good high quality, high output air pump that isn't going to batter your roots to death is tied with keeping water temps between 70-80*. If at all possible you want GREAT O2 saturation in your tubs, not just good. I use a minimum of two aerator stones per 5 gallon tub and have been known to use up to 4.
• If using 5 gallon tubs and NOT doing RDWD Insulating your dark tub with a lighter one can help regulate tub volume temps.
• Have a few spare 5 gallon buckets and an aquarium siphon pump (electric or manual) to help fill and drain your tubs. A short stool or riser also comes in handy as the tub being emptied will need to be higher than the one being filled.
• For me, I find DWC Hydro as opposed RDWC hydro preferable for many reasons: I don't really have the room for a reservoir. I find it easier to deal with 1 issue at a time as opposed to a RDWC system which can spread the issue over several plants and to varying degrees. Different strains often like slightly different nutrients, I find I can easily accommodate them individually with a DWC system. If you pay close enough attention and can catch issues in time, practically every issue can be dealt with - with a tub flush and restart. Turning off the O2 and not noticing for a week, just for reference; NOT a good thing.

*Please note optimal liquid tub temps are somewhere between 65-70 degrees farenheit - I live in the southwest and can honestly only get and maintain temp to around 68 if we have a cold winter or once the girls have started drinking a lot so I can add more cold water. As long as you keep your temps 80 or below you’ll have minimum to no problem with your grow IF you have great O2 saturation and use hydroguard regularly.

[BU2B]

Smoklahoma The last thing I want to do is be giving you wrong information so I just checked my watering stick and did some measuring. I have it marked in the good to best zone from 3-5 inches from the top of the lid. As you can see by the state of the stick - I've used these measurements for quite some time.

First line (Blue) is 3 inches below the top T (bottom side of the T)
3-4 inches below the lid GOOD zone
4-5 inches below the lid BEST zone
More than 5 inches from the top - add a little bit to keep it in the BEST zone

Please note: this IS a slight adjustment to the TIP given in the last update

Random Ramblings: Why I use a measuring stick. Once your plant's get established they can be rather heavy, as I mentioned before your plant when nearing completion can weigh close to 10 lbs and this is NOT including the roots - unless you have a growing partner or a partner who grows getting that lid lifted to check on roots and nutrient/water levels can be iffy at best. This is even more true as you are likely using tie-down wire to spread her out, all of which have to be removed every time you remove the lid. It is however; ALWAYS a good idea to know the water level in your tubs and if its looking questionable address the level and quality as needed. A stick with a T bar comes in very handy. It won't slip into my watering hole and the T bar gives me a good consistent marker so I know my measurements are always correct. Just don't paint or mark on your stick on one side or else just use permanent marker. You need one side not treated if you paint it so that you can SEE where the water level is on one side and compare it to where it should be on the other.

I hope this explains THE GAP better than I can -> The Kratky Method - Grow Food The Passive Hydroponic Way (Step by Step Guide) | Trees.com
What I'm using is actually a DWC Kratky hybrid