Great explanation on when to cut em, don't think I've read better. I just wanted to say this as an add on to the noob.
Flowering doesn't start when you switch to 12s it starts when you see flowers.
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How I average a pound per plant
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When is the right time to Harvest?:
There's a lot of debate on the issue, but here are my thoughts on when to know if your plant is done or you're just done growing it. Do you go by the strains general guidelines? Do you wait until trichomes are mostly milky, all milky? With a few amber trichomes or not?
Yes, I think you do need to keep the strains known flowering time in mind; yes you can check your trichomes to help you time harvest, and most important of all It's all up to you!
I'm pretty much an indica guy so you may want to take this information with that in mind. But honestly, It's the same for all photo period cannabis when it comes to harvest time:- Know your plant strains flowering time or have a good estimate
- When your plant is nearing the end of its known flowering time keep an eye on trichomes for your desired effect. Mostly clear - generally more energy, jumpiness (indica or sativa). Mostly cloudy - ideal for most folks. A few amber trichomes - couch lock is on its way. Mostly amber - CBZzzzzz time.
- To get the added benefit of extra added weight allow your plants flowers to fully mature!
As your plant nears harvest your flowers are going to look similar to the one shown above. Lots of trichomes, most of them cloudy, maybe 30% amber or more (depending on your preferences) and pistils have changed color; for all practical purposes it looks good to go.
Though I take all of these things into account - here's how I determine if the plant is done or if I'm just done growing it. IF your flowers have developed to their fullest you are going to find that they will give a 'final push' during their last 7-10 days.
Take a look at the following photo's:
Notice the new growth pushing out of the buds? Pistils are lighter as well as the area of your bud where 'final push' growth is occurring. This is your plants final attempt at making sure it doesn't go without progeny. Calyx's are swelling and the plant is doing its best to insure that if there are any boys at all out there they know it's still available. This is also the time that your female plant, which up to this point has shown no indication it has male tendencies or is a hermaphrodite, can produce seeds. IF you keep an eye on your buds, and notice new growth on buds that previously looked finished, this is completely normal.
'Final push' growth is one of the best indicators I have found that your plant is done (or very near done) and should be harvested in 7-10 days to avoid possible seed development. Waiting until this 'final push' can add a substantial jumpstart to the weight yield of your harvest and help make your buds firmer.
You're It!Last edited by BU2B; 11-22-2020, 12:35 PM.
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NOTICE:
On December 15, 2020 a downloadable PDF of this method will be available to all and posted as the final entry to this journal.
Special thanks to grouchyoldman for volunteering his considerable talent, time and efforts in compiling and editing the journal. I am happy to announce we are collaborating our effort to make the BU2B PPP Method as instructional, informative and easy to follow as possible.
I am also trying to get this method hosted by GWE in its Tutorial section as per requests.
Regardless of the outcome of that endeavor, a link to a complete compiled and edited version of BU2B’s PPP Method will be available shortly.
Happy Pharming
(stay healthy)
Last edited by BU2B; 11-17-2020, 04:40 AM.
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Time to pull out the decoder ring...
I hope this help to answer questions I have gotten regarding flowering tips and defoliation:
I always told my son when he was growing up that communication is more than just talking (or typing). It's not what you intend and actually do say, it's what others perceive that you have said. As the meme goes "I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you", which makes it my job to explain myself and what I am saying in such a way that it CAN be understood. If at any time during the next few weeks you find that I have not explained something in a way that makes it understandable, PLEASE let me know and I will do my best to rectify the oversight. I am sure there are a ton of 'little' details that I habitually do without even giving it a second thought. If you find instances where you are wondering how things got from point A to point B at any section of this journal - I will do my utmost to insure your questions are answered.
That being said - some of you may be wondering if I can actually count. As you can see, there are more than 44 or 46 flowing tops on these plants. If you're wondering how I got to almost 60 flowering tops on the front plant and about 45 on the $100 OG if I used this method (which clearly shows 44 flowering tips to start); then please... keep reading.
Back in Post #60 I stated "The importance of keeping a level canopy with LST during vegetation mode becomes obvious when your girls kick into flower mode. It not only allows top flowering branches to get the most light, it also helps you determine which growth tips just under the canopy are worth keeping, wont block other sites and eventually develop into large bud packets."
Also in Post #60 I said "By the time your plant goes into flower at the end of week 8 you should still be aiming for around 50 flowering bud branches - but as flowering continues, you may find that though the number my stay about the same you may not be putting the same effort into the the same growth tips you were when you started flowering mode."
Please allow me to try and further explain (or decipher) my previous comments along with the following seemingly contradictory statement; "When defoliating your plant, I find it helpful to start at the top of each branch and work your way down. DON'T remove too many leaves and or side branches off of the branch you are defoliating, keeping in mind that your plant will flower as far down as there are nodes IF light can get down that far."
Defoliation is a balancing act. You need to keep your plant open enough to ambient light to allow your undergrowth to grow (a bit), during the vegetation period, yet at the same time, you should also be trying to keep bud sites, or what will become bud sites 'uncovered' all without letting too much light in. The trick is learning to open your plant up enough to allow some undergrowth development and yet at the same time not fully exposed to light so that they don't develop too fully and begin at an early stage of flowering to push multiple side branches out of your main flowering branches. You do want some undergrowth on your plant when they go into flower mode at the end of week 8. It is these additional growth tips just under the canopy that will add to your total number of flowering branches. It is also the reason why, as flowering continues, you may find that though the number my stay about the same (for your growth tips or flowering branches) you may not be putting the same effort into the the same growth tips you were when you started flowering mode. To reiterate a note - "you should ... have over 40 'flowering tips' by week 6 - with more coming all on their own as the branches grow outward and upward until the end of vegetation week 8."
You can have as many growth tips/flowering branches on your plant as you want. As your doing very little High Stress Training your plant will develop at its normal quick pace and it's easy to get carried away, hoping for that truly memorable MONSTER HARVEST. However, keep in mind you are going to eventually run into the same issue with two plants in your tent as you would have with 4, as was pointed out earlier in the journal, if you get too many flowering tips. There is just no way, unless doing a SCROG grow, to effectively open up the plant in flowering to utilize those growth tips to their full potential, and a massive amount of growth tips will only end up hurting your yield or produce many more smaller bud packets that don't increase yield but do increase trim work when your harvest is done. When it all comes out in the wash, I still recommend about 40-50 flowering branches total. In my experience 60 or more flowering branches is pretty darn iffy as to whether you are going to increase your maximum yield over 50 branches.
Both of these plants started out with 44 flowering tips as shown in the diagram in Post #32Last edited by BU2B; 11-17-2020, 08:11 AM.
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I have tons of tape left over from my many reno's over the years. Have maybe 4 or 5 rolls so enough to last for years. Of course alcohol is cheap and easy. I have a few bottles of that as well. Will have to look into the extreme sharpies.
Thx for the suggestion.
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Looking good John ,I think your going to love the method.. Poppa and DP I use a exstream conditions sharpie I find its more important to keep the writing until after the grow lol nothing sucks more than spending the time energy and money to grow different strains only to have the label un readable ,
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Another thing you can use to write on them is a wax pen. I used sharpies before that but I feel like the wax comes off easier when cleaning off the writing. Get yourself a bottle of Goo Gone and it comes off easier than alcohol and you don't have to use much.Last edited by dphipps1020; 11-16-2020, 08:47 AM.
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usually do 4 but Ill start 2 in my second tent to start while I wait. To try this method. as all say thanks for all this info.
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I join the chorus in thanking you for your efforts. You sir epitomize the spirit of this forum.
Kudos from a fellow RUSH fan ...
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I see that like me you reuse your plant markers. A life hack I found helpful is to just use a Sharpie to write on the plastic markers. Then it easily comes off with the rubbing alcohol (I used 91%) we all seem to keep around to sterilize stuff with. I have cleaned and reused the same markers 4 times so far.
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