Too much good info to not follow. Thanks for putting this together. Great stuff.
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I'm new myself. Can't wait to learn!Comment
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You've come to the right place, welcome to the neighborhood. I don't know if you have checked out the main site but the first thing I try to push on a new grower is the first article on the site and actually says new growers start here. Here's a link to the article it covers everything from equipment to what water to use, again welcome and good luck
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We are pretty much done here folks. I've outlined the method, given my ramblings and thoughts on nutrients, flowering types, defoliating and general plant care. All that's left now is to wait for the final outcome of the two plants in my current grow. I'm tentatively setting the date of the final post of this journal as December 13, 2020. I will continue to posts updates and as long as I find I don't ramble too much or repeat information already covered, I will also post thoughts and comments.
Until the final post, please feel free to ask questions or make comments. I'll do my best to answer your questions or at least point you in the direction where you 'can' find the answer if I don't know. It's quite possible someone already following the journal and in the crowd knows the answer or can answer it in a way that makes better sense than what I can.
PLEASE if you find the information found in this journal useful, pass the information on to others; I don't really care about getting any credit - I just want to share what I have found out with others. So once again, if the efforts are worth the rewards, please share.
If you find ways of improving on this method, I would like to hear about it... but other than that - The info is yours to do with as you see fit.
Have a great time growing. Be kind to each other (or someone's standing in the corner!
), and remember it's the diversity that makes us strong. We all think differently, and to quote Wookiefoot, "We may not have it all together, but together we can have it all".
Peace my friends,
(jago ma)
It's a different culture, we in a different roomLast edited by BU2B; 11-19-2020, 05:12 PM.Comment
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Thanks BU2B for all you've done. Much appreciated.Originally posted by BU2B View PostWe are pretty much done here folks. I've outlined the method, given my ramblings and thoughts on nutrients, flowering types, defoliating and general plant care. All that's left now is to wait for the final outcome of the two plants in my current grow. I'm tentatively setting the date of the final post of this journal as December 13, 2020. I will continue to posts updates and as long as I find I don't ramble too much or repeat information already covered, I will also post thoughts and comments.
Until the final post, please feel free to ask questions or make comments. I'll do my best to answer your questions or at least point you in the direction where you 'can' find the answer if I don't know. It's quite possible someone already following the journal and in the crowd knows the answer or can answer it in a way that makes better sense than what I can.
PLEASE if you find the information found in this journal useful, pass the information on to others; I don't really care about getting any credit - I just want to share what I have found out with others. So once again, if the efforts are worth the rewards, please share.
If you find ways of improving on this method, I would like to hear about it... but other than that - The info is yours to do with as you see fit.
Have a great time growing. Be kind to each other (or someone's standing in the corner!), and remember it's the diversity that makes us strong. We all think differently, and to quote WookieFoot, "We may not have it all together, but together we can have it all".
Peace my friends,
(jago ma)
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...are&playnext=1Comment
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good stuff mate very informative as ever also i agree with groucholdnanComment
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can I ask what do you do for humidity control. I have a 4x4 with a marsts3000 and once in 3weeks into flower it goes crazy. I have my exhaust hooked to an ink bird but it kills my temps @ times. I do kill the fans when lights are off.If you get confused....listen to the music playComment
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Living in the southwest having humidity too high is rarely a problem. But, If and when I do have an issue with humidity, it's always during veg mode. I find that keeping on top of leaves and removing excess leaves really helps. I've actually had wet leaves (which can leave some nice white spots on your leaves that can give you a heart attack) and thinning them can bring your humidity down sometimes as much as 20%. My tent has active fan output and passive outdoor input. If you just cant get the humidity under control your only viable option may be a de-humidifier. -
usually do 4 but Ill start 2 in my second tent to start while I wait. To try this method. as all say thanks for all this info.
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CROWDED HOUSE:
Method testing- I found 4 plants don't produce any significant advantage in flower production or weight of cured flowers over 2 if using this method (if grown in a 4x4 tent.) Just more work. With 4 plants in my tent, dried and cured harvest per plant averages about 6 ounces. Your final outcome is likely to be smaller due to limited size and the inability to open plants up during vegetation & flowering as you can with just two plants in your tent. The grow shown here produced 23 ounces, the following grow, with 2 plants produced 28.
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Current grow: Week 6 Day 1 of flowering
Updated estimate of harvest: $100 OG - 17 oz, Northern Lights - 22 oz. Dried and Cured.
I project final harvest weight for this method as follows:
• Number of full flowering branches when your plant is six weeks into flowering (it should be defoliated enough to see all bud sites) divided by two. Before week 6 I find it’s more of a hoping game when trying to estimate yield totals.
(Flowering branches / 2)
• If branches are relatively full each two full branches will be about 26 grams.
(Flowering branches / 2) x 26 = Total Weight
• Divide the total from the above by 28 to get number of ounces.
• EXAMPLE for the Northern Lights shown here, this how I estimated total dried and cured weight:
((((46 / 2) = 23) x 26) = 598 / 28) = 21.36 oz
I'm open for prognostications:Last edited by BU2B; 11-15-2020, 04:36 AM.Comment
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Dood, you are on a total roll lately!
This is the first testable methodology for estimating the yield of a flowering plant that I've found. DOES IT WORK??? Have you regularly been using this formula and found it to be pretty accurate? Cool Beans.
I've got a Widow downstairs just starting Week six flowering and I'm gonna go start counting...
Sorry for the excess of enthusiasmo here, too much coffee and a morning toke!
Saludos,
-Grouchy
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OK, my week 7 flowering Widow has about 30 legitimate Tops so: 30/2=15*26=390g/28= 13.9 oz.
I'll be delighted if I come anywheres close to that number! -
I find it pretty reliable actually. I always try to 'underestimate'; counting 4 branches that were not at the top of the canopy as two full branches. Keep in mind, depending on your plants flowering type a full branch can look completely different. If your flowers are more spread out, as long as they average the same amount as a flowering plant with close nodes - it still counts as a full branch. Of course nothing is foolproof when it comes to estimating a harvest, you still have bud density to consider. But I found this close more often than not. If your looking back on past grows and you see 8 colas of 6" or more about 4 oz is a pretty good guess for your grow.
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Started a lebanese photo and am trying your training. if it's a female then great. but anyway here is the pic.
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Time to pull out the decoder ring...
I hope this help to answer questions I have gotten regarding flowering tips and defoliation:
I always told my son when he was growing up that communication is more than just talking (or typing). It's not what you intend and actually do say, it's what others perceive that you have said. As the meme goes "I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you", which makes it my job to explain myself and what I am saying in such a way that it CAN be understood. If at any time during the next few weeks you find that I have not explained something in a way that makes it understandable, PLEASE let me know and I will do my best to rectify the oversight. I am sure there are a ton of 'little' details that I habitually do without even giving it a second thought. If you find instances where you are wondering how things got from point A to point B at any section of this journal - I will do my utmost to insure your questions are answered.
That being said - some of you may be wondering if I can actually count. As you can see, there are more than 44 or 46 flowing tops on these plants. If you're wondering how I got to almost 60 flowering tops on the front plant and about 45 on the $100 OG if I used this method (which clearly shows 44 flowering tips to start); then please... keep reading.
Back in Post #60 I stated "The importance of keeping a level canopy with LST during vegetation mode becomes obvious when your girls kick into flower mode. It not only allows top flowering branches to get the most light, it also helps you determine which growth tips just under the canopy are worth keeping, wont block other sites and eventually develop into large bud packets."
Also in Post #60 I said "By the time your plant goes into flower at the end of week 8 you should still be aiming for around 50 flowering bud branches - but as flowering continues, you may find that though the number my stay about the same you may not be putting the same effort into the the same growth tips you were when you started flowering mode."
Please allow me to try and further explain (or decipher) my previous comments along with the following seemingly contradictory statement; "When defoliating your plant, I find it helpful to start at the top of each branch and work your way down. DON'T remove too many leaves and or side branches off of the branch you are defoliating, keeping in mind that your plant will flower as far down as there are nodes IF light can get down that far."
Defoliation is a balancing act. You need to keep your plant open enough to ambient light to allow your undergrowth to grow (a bit), during the vegetation period, yet at the same time, you should also be trying to keep bud sites, or what will become bud sites 'uncovered' all without letting too much light in. The trick is learning to open your plant up enough to allow some undergrowth development and yet at the same time not fully exposed to light so that they don't develop too fully and begin at an early stage of flowering to push multiple side branches out of your main flowering branches. You do want some undergrowth on your plant when they go into flower mode at the end of week 8. It is these additional growth tips just under the canopy that will add to your total number of flowering branches. It is also the reason why, as flowering continues, you may find that though the number my stay about the same (for your growth tips or flowering branches) you may not be putting the same effort into the the same growth tips you were when you started flowering mode. To reiterate a note - "you should ... have over 40 'flowering tips' by week 6 - with more coming all on their own as the branches grow outward and upward until the end of vegetation week 8."
You can have as many growth tips/flowering branches on your plant as you want. As your doing very little High Stress Training your plant will develop at its normal quick pace and it's easy to get carried away, hoping for that truly memorable MONSTER HARVEST. However, keep in mind you are going to eventually run into the same issue with two plants in your tent as you would have with 4, as was pointed out earlier in the journal, if you get too many flowering tips. There is just no way, unless doing a SCROG grow, to effectively open up the plant in flowering to utilize those growth tips to their full potential, and a massive amount of growth tips will only end up hurting your yield or produce many more smaller bud packets that don't increase yield but do increase trim work when your harvest is done. When it all comes out in the wash, I still recommend about 40-50 flowering branches total. In my experience 60 or more flowering branches is pretty darn iffy as to whether you are going to increase your maximum yield over 50 branches.
Both of these plants started out with 44 flowering tips as shown in the diagram in Post #32Last edited by BU2B; 11-17-2020, 08:11 AM.Comment
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NOTICE:
On December 15, 2020 a downloadable PDF of this method will be available to all and posted as the final entry to this journal.
Special thanks to grouchyoldman for volunteering his considerable talent, time and efforts in compiling and editing the journal. I am happy to announce we are collaborating our effort to make the BU2B PPP Method as instructional, informative and easy to follow as possible.
I am also trying to get this method hosted by GWE in its Tutorial section as per requests.
Regardless of the outcome of that endeavor, a link to a complete compiled and edited version of BU2B’s PPP Method will be available shortly.
Happy Pharming
(stay healthy)
Last edited by BU2B; 11-17-2020, 04:40 AM.Comment
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EXCELLANT I can't thank you enoughComment
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When is the right time to Harvest?:
There's a lot of debate on the issue, but here are my thoughts on when to know if your plant is done or you're just done growing it. Do you go by the strains general guidelines? Do you wait until trichomes are mostly milky, all milky? With a few amber trichomes or not?
Yes, I think you do need to keep the strains known flowering time in mind; yes you can check your trichomes to help you time harvest, and most important of all It's all up to you!
I'm pretty much an indica guy so you may want to take this information with that in mind. But honestly, It's the same for all photo period cannabis when it comes to harvest time:- Know your plant strains flowering time or have a good estimate
- When your plant is nearing the end of its known flowering time keep an eye on trichomes for your desired effect. Mostly clear - generally more energy, jumpiness (indica or sativa). Mostly cloudy - ideal for most folks. A few amber trichomes - couch lock is on its way. Mostly amber - CBZzzzzz time.
- To get the added benefit of extra added weight allow your plants flowers to fully mature!
As your plant nears harvest your flowers are going to look similar to the one shown above. Lots of trichomes, most of them cloudy, maybe 30% amber or more (depending on your preferences) and pistils have changed color; for all practical purposes it looks good to go.
Though I take all of these things into account - here's how I determine if the plant is done or if I'm just done growing it. IF your flowers have developed to their fullest you are going to find that they will give a 'final push' during their last 7-10 days.
Take a look at the following photo's:
Notice the new growth pushing out of the buds? Pistils are lighter as well as the area of your bud where 'final push' growth is occurring. This is your plants final attempt at making sure it doesn't go without progeny. Calyx's are swelling and the plant is doing its best to insure that if there are any boys at all out there they know it's still available. This is also the time that your female plant, which up to this point has shown no indication it has male tendencies or is a hermaphrodite, can produce seeds. IF you keep an eye on your buds, and notice new growth on buds that previously looked finished, this is completely normal.
'Final push' growth is one of the best indicators I have found that your plant is done (or very near done) and should be harvested in 7-10 days to avoid possible seed development. Waiting until this 'final push' can add a substantial jumpstart to the weight yield of your harvest and help make your buds firmer.
You're It!Last edited by BU2B; 11-22-2020, 12:35 PM.Comment
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I always thought it started counting wise when you flip how else do you know when to do the 3 week defole, -
I'm talking about ripeness and what seed companies list as flower times. You see all over to add two weeks to the flower times the breeders suggest but what it is, is that you don't start counting flower times until you have flowers. Defoliation timing doesn't change you time that by switch or at least I do -
oldjarhead100 I don’t think when you start counting is that big of a deal and really a matter of personal choice. But, like MeEasy I do keep note of the day of ‘the switch’ but I don’t start counting flowering time until I actually see flowers - which can be 3-7 days after you switch to 12/12.
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