femenised sounds good to me mate i useing grow flora series i find it confusing on amounts micro and grow will the nitrogen in micro useing less of it in flower but it more than the grow which has pottasium in it mate
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Why so confusing growell ? British/English is that what's so confusing? -
Let me see if I can say this in a way we all see the same thing. We all see the same thing when it comes to needing higher Nitrogen (N) in veg and low in flower and high Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K) in flower. On nutrient bottles there are 3 numbers N-P-K. What I believe growell and what I myself thought while looking at the 3 Floa trio bottles and feed chart seemed off. If you take them at face values Micro 5-0-1 Gro 2-1-6 and Bloom 0-5-4 the chart says to increase the Micro with a high N and cut the Gro with a high K. So raising the unneeded N and lowering the needed K in flower doesn't make sense. It works and I figure increasing the Micro was more for the other nutrients over raising the N. Hope this makes sense I did hit my pipe as soon as I stopped working round here today. Ladders and roofs are not my friends at this age.
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i can follow the instuctions what i meant thought u dont need lot of nitrogen in flower micro got the most the grow got more potassium so why do u add more micro than gro which has nitrogen and i think bloom has to if that makes sense mateComment
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You can still keep a balanced npk ratio increasing only micro and bloom. However if you increase grow and bloom without increasing micro, your trace nutrients will be out of balance because the micro contains all of trace nutrients. Technically you could eliminate the grow altogether and be perfectly fine.
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Okay folks, time to get this road on the show!
Timeline: The goal is to finish up the tutorial with my current grow, which will be finished in around 5 weeks
Unless everyone has an issue with it I am going to skip over a tutorial on germination. I figure at this point everyone knows how to germinate a seed and more than likely have their own method of doing so; either paper towel and baggie or 'putting' the seeds directly into their growing medium for germination. If anyone has any questions regarding germination, let me know and I will be happy to address them, otherwise, we'll consider the topic covered.
For those who have not read NebulaHaze 's tutorial on modified manifolding I think you will find it very helpful and inline with what I am going to cover. There is a good chance that much of the information will be in Nebula's tutorial as well - but in a different way that will make it easier for you to understand. The tutorial can be found HERE -> https://www.growweedeasy.com/manifold
While this tutorial will work for any cannabis strain, you will have better results with strains whose leaf nodes are closer together or with strains specifically bred for large bud packs (e.g.; White Fire OG x Big Bud).
Keep in mind this tutorial and method is specifically for indoor growing under lights.
The initial training begins fairly early in a young plants life and you are 80% done within 4 weeks. This method or any High Stress Training (HST) should only be carried out on healthy and thriving plants. For your sake, and plants, never start hacking away at a plant that is struggling just to stay alive.
You are going to veg your plants for the standard 8 weeks before kicking them into flower. Start with a good healthy young plant. I know growers, who in an effort to keep the plant 'as natural' as possible, use 4 to 6 hours of darkness to their 24 hour vegetation cycle. You are free to do as you like, but during vegetation mode, it's perfectly safe for your plants to have 24 hours of light as darkness is NOT required UNTIL you are ready to kick your girls into flower. My personal preference is for 24 hours of light during vegetation.
Once your plants have gotten 4 sets of leaves you're ready to begin (sprouting leaves don't count). If your plant had a rough start or if you are a little unsure about clipping your plant when its so tiny, you can wait until node set 6 of leaves. If your plant is doing great and you are confident enough that you know what a sprouting node looks like earlier is better. Generally, your plant is going to be about 2 weeks old when you begin the initial training.
Snip off the growing tip of your plant between nodes 3 and 4 being careful not to damage the two growing tips above the 3rd set of leaves. You want 3 leaf sets below your initial clip.
When done topping your plant, you will have something that looks like the image above. Don't worry too much about time - if your plant takes a little longer to get to 4 nodes that's perfectly fine. Remember your veg time is not going to change, but you will need to work at the speed your plant grows NOT a given amount of time.
Allow your plant to grow as usual. Keep doing what you would normally do for a plant that is 2-3 weeks old. At or near the start of week 3 you are going to remove all the leaves below your initial topping with the exception of the two large fan leaves below your new growing tips. I believe Nebula suggests waiting until your new growing tips have at least 6 nodes before removing the leaves. I find that as long as your plant is healthy and has at least two nodes per each of your new branches that will work just fine.
When you are done with phase two of training your plant should look similar to the one below:
Generally, depending on your plant, phase two of training should be completed by week 3 or 4.
And... guess what? You're 80% done at this point, but the last 20% will kick your flower harvest into overdrive, I promise.Last edited by BU2B; 10-30-2020, 05:20 AM.Comment
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Current grow - Week 3 of flowering. When these girls are done and harvested, (with an actual dried weight of flower and sugar leaf) this tutorial will be complete.
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Holy hell those are manifolds? I’ve been using Nebula’s manifold my last couple grows as well and really like it. All training is done within 5wks of sprout and I’ve been averaging 5oz of quality bud per plant. I’m definitely interested where we go from here because your plants are bigger. Longer veg than I’m doing but still, monster plants! I’m guessing there’s another topping or two to take place, possibly some supercropping. Either way I’m looking forward to following along.
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How I PM you? 😁 keen-keen!!Comment
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I keep hearing about using less than recommended nutrients.. I don't use the same "brand" as you, so you'd still recommend only using like 30% less, nonetheless? 😊
Seeing your plant's makes so much sense!!
Beautiful....Comment
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I start at a quarter then go up until I see a very little tip burn, since I've been using the same nutrients for years, this grow i've cut out everything but grow and bloom ,calmag. silica .so far plants are looking great -
From what I understand mixing as per nutrient manufactures recommendations gives you the proper ratio of nutrients. Then is up to us to to dilute it if needed to our desired ppm or EC. I use coco so adding extra cal mag is part of the equation for healthy plants due to cation exchange.
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hi. not sure how to follow except to comment. i too am soooo interested. Onward ho!A happy Canuk. this grow will be using Flora Flex nutrients in coco/perlite. 9 plants in 3 by 3 tent and 8 plants in 2 by 4, in 1 or 2 gallon pots (whatevere is there). manual fertigation planned. veg till around 1 ft high. 2 by 4 tent light is Bloom Plus 2500 and 3 by 3 tent has Mar Hydro Ts3000, both of which seem awesome.Comment
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Great information. Very appreciated.Last edited by Ckbrew; 10-30-2020, 01:15 PM.Don't worry, be happy, grow sticky buds.Comment
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I was Actually following the bottle on the Gh trio same as you with calimagic and i got a ppm meter and my ppm/ec reading was off the charts i have halfed everything and it basically makes them seem even healthier plus i am saving half of my nutrients now so that is hype.Comment
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thanks poppa for that exactly what i meant mate keep it up bu2b lovely plant mateComment
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And the beat goes on (and the beat goes on)...
I have a sneaking suspicion that I am going to be done with the HOW TO part of this journal long before my current grow finishes up (just starting week 4 today). Should that be the case, and I'm quite certain it will be, please feel free to ask questions and make comments - even if I don't have the answer; someone on GWE will know and I will do my best to insure that questions are answered. I am not afraid to say, "I don't know", if in fact, I don't - but someone will know. e.g., I love how Poppa and others have already proven my point.
Last time on "How I average a pound per plant" we had gotten our plants up to a healthy 4 weeks old, topped it once and removed all leaves/branches below the initial Y cut - in this session we're going to get our training and the 'work' 95% complete.
As your plant grows you want to 'gently' fold down and restrain your two new branches so they are growing as horizontal as possible. As your plant grows new node sets will grow out. It will produce leaf nodes in sets - two horizontal and then two vertical. You want to remove all of the nodes that are facing downward. For example if your branch is growing nodes will appear rather like a "+" sign if viewed from the top (when growing vertical) or straight on from the end of the branch (when growing horizontal).
Unlike a traditional manifold, you want to leave all of the nodes/branches/leaves on your plant EXCEPT for those that grow downward. If viewed from the end of the branch your stem should look like and inverted "T". By the end of or during week 4 your plant should look similar to the one shown above.
As your plant continues to grow you want to keep it as horizontal as possible without breaking or damaging your two new branches. Remove all growth on the underside of your two branches. As the plant develops you want to remove the large fan leaf that will be over the second node growing upward.
In the image above you can clearly see where the large fan leaf over the upward growing node has been removed.
As long as your plant is still healthy and doing well, continue in the same vein for around a week - Removing all nodes that grow downward, keeping your plant as horizontal as possible, and removing all large fan leaves from above all upward growing nodes.
By the end of week 4 your plant should look very much like the one shown here.
When your plant has grown to the point that there are 3 branches growing on each side of the new branches we are going to 'top' the ends of each of them so that they look like this --<--<--<.
>-->-->--o--<--<--<
You should have 3 branches on each side of your two new branches growing horizontally and 3 branches growing upward on each side of the Y.
This will give you 18 flowering branches to start (or 16 should you remove the upward growth at the end of the branch). Whether you have 16 or 18 branches at this point is not too big of a deal as you are going to have an average of 40 when you are done.
As your plant grows keep it as 'splayed out' as possible. The plant above has 3 branches on each side of the new branches and two growing upward. In order to make the most of space on your plant I usually fold each of the two first vertical branches together as shown above so that there is no 'donut hole' in the center of your plant as it grows. By week 5 your plant should be 95% done with any training and be ABOUT as big in circumference as your growing container and/or a 5 gallon bucket.
Let your plant grow as usual. Care for it as you would normally care for your babies, but DON'T removing any branches growing upward. Once your plant is about as big around as a 5 gallon bucket growth will be upward and outward.
By mid week 6 your plants should look similar to these two girls.
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grouchyoldman - if you will scroll back up to post #18, image 2 it will hopefully make a little more sense. You are basically topping each end of the 'new' branches (each side of the Y) at the end making it split, just as you did for your initial topping that created your plants Y structure. You want to do this when the plant has 3 horizontal 'sets' of leaves. IF you top just after the 3rd horizontal node you will have 8 growing branches on each side (including your two vertical branches). -
In the 4th pic, are all the branches LST’d down? Sorry, it’s hard to tell from above. I’m guessing the logic is to grow all the branches out horizontal until everything is as wide as the container then grow vertical. Thanks for this tutorial on your style. It just so happened that I popped a few seeds about the same time you started it so I’m giving it a go and want to be accurate -
Yes, bboyfromwayback the plants are tied down to keep them level. Though it doesn't show well in the photo, you can see green training wire on the plant on the left.
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You do a great job.Comment
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Thanks ChadWestport I don't do many things well, but cannabis and I seem to have an understanding. Who knows why, but it works for me.
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"Whichever path you follow, push on till tomorrow, Love all, Serve all, and Create no sorrow" - Trevor Hall
Last edited by BU2B; 11-01-2020, 05:47 AM.Comment
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Nice! Will subscribe and watch and learnProving the world just needs more tumble weeds
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