definitelyNOTtravis
New member
You are right, it doesn’t answer my question but good reading nonetheless. Thanks for the reply
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What is your biggest question about growing cannabis?
Paracelsus
New member
Genetics, strain, and LIGHT! I want COB style DIY but until I can afford to invest that money I'm buying used MH/HID fixtures and new bulbs to get started. Another KEY ingredient is knowledge AND Experience, you can find that here @ GWE by using the tutorials available here. The search function works great ! I just searched Getting larger more dense buds and this popped up first. http://www.growweedeasy.com/dense-buds
Top 5 Most Common Reasons for Airy Marijuana Buds
(get a complete breakdown of all the ways to increase bud density in the article below)
Light - The most common reason buds don't develop as densely as they could is the plant didn't get enough light in the flowering stage. Although cannabis can survive in relatively low light levels, it won't produce much bud. Up to a point, more light in the flowering stage = bigger buds. On the flip side, too-bright light (less common, but can happen when buds are too close to grow lights) can also cause buds to develop poorly and/or produce airy, hairy fox-tails.
Strain / Genetics - Some strains will only produce airy buds no matter what you do. For example Sativa plants often grow buds that are less dense, while Indica buds tend to grow more compact. Although one style isn't necessarily better than the other, if you want dense buds it's important to start with genetics that come from a plant that grows dense buds.
Temperature - Cannabis wants the temperature just right for optimal bud growth, which is about the same temperature as what's comfortable for humans. Too hot temps in the flowering stage (especially above 85°F/30°C) can cause plants to develop loose buds, and can also cause buds to herm and become seedy.
Nutrients - Buds won’t fatten and get dense unless they're getting the right nutrients at the right time, which means low Nitrogen (N) and plenty of Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K) in the flowering stage. Giving too much Nitrogen (found in all-purpose plant food) in the flowering stage results in smaller, looser buds. Learn more about nutrient ratios. Other nutrient problems and deficiencies can also negatively affect your bud development if left unchecked. However, the most common reason growers see nutrient problems hurt development in the flowering stage is incorrect pH at the plant roots.
Airflow & Bud Spacing - Poor airflow around buds and lack of strong, direct light will prevent those buds from developing as densely as they could. Buds need a little space to themselves in order to get big and dense, and won't fatten up if they're not directly exposed to fresh air and strong light. In the wild cannabis is a wind-pollinated plant, so it only spends energy growing and fattening buds that are exposed to a breeze and the sun. To make sure the buds are getting a breeze, each big cola on your plant should have a few inches of space around it that it's not sharing with leaves or other buds.
Never grow loose, airy buds again!
These buds are fluffy and airy - not dense at all. This tutorial will show you how to make your cannabis buds grow compact and dense every time!
6 More Tactics to Increase Bud Density
In addition to fixing the problems stated above, here's a complete breakdown of additional tactics to increase bud density (more complete info in the article below or click the links)
Reduce humidity below 45% RH during last 2-3 weeks before harvest - Lowering the humidity towards the end of the flowering stage triggers a natural plant response that can make buds more dense as well as increase resin production
Density Boosting Supplements - There are two main classes of bloom-boosters. The first class focuses on enhancing plant processes, and uses dozens of various ingredients like amino acids and trace minerals. The second class works by increasing Phosphorus/Potassium levels directly. Some growers also use Blackstrap molasses in order to accomplish many of the same goals without needing a special plant supplement.
Don't harvest too early! Harvesting too early will prevent your buds from finishing up. They gain a lot of weight and density during the last few weeks before harvest, and you're hindering all your hard work by not waiting just a little longer.
Dry & Cure Your Buds - In addition to improving taste, smell and potency, drying and curing your buds the right way will cause them to "tighten up" a bit. If you dry your buds too quickly or don't cure them in glass jars, you're missing out on almost 50% of what's going to determine your final bud quality!
Don't overwater your plants - it's boring but true! Not much to say about this, but don't overlook this common issue and make sure to water your plants right. If your plants leaves are droopy, it means you could be missing out on better growth!
Get a Big Enough Container - If your container is too small your plant just won't be able to support bigger, denser buds no matter what else you do. Make sure to get the right size container and if possible, get a "smart pot" or "air pot" as they prevent overwatering, increase growth and support larger plants!
Continue reading to learn more in depth about these tactics and techniques to boost buds density!
http://www.growweedeasy.com/dense-buds
Top 5 Most Common Reasons for Airy Marijuana Buds
(get a complete breakdown of all the ways to increase bud density in the article below)
Light - The most common reason buds don't develop as densely as they could is the plant didn't get enough light in the flowering stage. Although cannabis can survive in relatively low light levels, it won't produce much bud. Up to a point, more light in the flowering stage = bigger buds. On the flip side, too-bright light (less common, but can happen when buds are too close to grow lights) can also cause buds to develop poorly and/or produce airy, hairy fox-tails.
Strain / Genetics - Some strains will only produce airy buds no matter what you do. For example Sativa plants often grow buds that are less dense, while Indica buds tend to grow more compact. Although one style isn't necessarily better than the other, if you want dense buds it's important to start with genetics that come from a plant that grows dense buds.
Temperature - Cannabis wants the temperature just right for optimal bud growth, which is about the same temperature as what's comfortable for humans. Too hot temps in the flowering stage (especially above 85°F/30°C) can cause plants to develop loose buds, and can also cause buds to herm and become seedy.
Nutrients - Buds won’t fatten and get dense unless they're getting the right nutrients at the right time, which means low Nitrogen (N) and plenty of Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K) in the flowering stage. Giving too much Nitrogen (found in all-purpose plant food) in the flowering stage results in smaller, looser buds. Learn more about nutrient ratios. Other nutrient problems and deficiencies can also negatively affect your bud development if left unchecked. However, the most common reason growers see nutrient problems hurt development in the flowering stage is incorrect pH at the plant roots.
Airflow & Bud Spacing - Poor airflow around buds and lack of strong, direct light will prevent those buds from developing as densely as they could. Buds need a little space to themselves in order to get big and dense, and won't fatten up if they're not directly exposed to fresh air and strong light. In the wild cannabis is a wind-pollinated plant, so it only spends energy growing and fattening buds that are exposed to a breeze and the sun. To make sure the buds are getting a breeze, each big cola on your plant should have a few inches of space around it that it's not sharing with leaves or other buds.
Never grow loose, airy buds again!
These buds are fluffy and airy - not dense at all. This tutorial will show you how to make your cannabis buds grow compact and dense every time!
6 More Tactics to Increase Bud Density
In addition to fixing the problems stated above, here's a complete breakdown of additional tactics to increase bud density (more complete info in the article below or click the links)
Reduce humidity below 45% RH during last 2-3 weeks before harvest - Lowering the humidity towards the end of the flowering stage triggers a natural plant response that can make buds more dense as well as increase resin production
Density Boosting Supplements - There are two main classes of bloom-boosters. The first class focuses on enhancing plant processes, and uses dozens of various ingredients like amino acids and trace minerals. The second class works by increasing Phosphorus/Potassium levels directly. Some growers also use Blackstrap molasses in order to accomplish many of the same goals without needing a special plant supplement.
Don't harvest too early! Harvesting too early will prevent your buds from finishing up. They gain a lot of weight and density during the last few weeks before harvest, and you're hindering all your hard work by not waiting just a little longer.
Dry & Cure Your Buds - In addition to improving taste, smell and potency, drying and curing your buds the right way will cause them to "tighten up" a bit. If you dry your buds too quickly or don't cure them in glass jars, you're missing out on almost 50% of what's going to determine your final bud quality!
Don't overwater your plants - it's boring but true! Not much to say about this, but don't overlook this common issue and make sure to water your plants right. If your plants leaves are droopy, it means you could be missing out on better growth!
Get a Big Enough Container - If your container is too small your plant just won't be able to support bigger, denser buds no matter what else you do. Make sure to get the right size container and if possible, get a "smart pot" or "air pot" as they prevent overwatering, increase growth and support larger plants!
Continue reading to learn more in depth about these tactics and techniques to boost buds density!
http://www.growweedeasy.com/dense-buds
Vitreous
New member
NOTTravis,
During the *transition* Is what I call week zero into the flower period, here I start the 12/12 at 50% HPS power, with a blend of Veg and Bloom nutes.
Hence Transition period.
Then the girls get use to the 12/12 and use to the nutrient change. Then week 1 of flower begins with full on 100% lighting and Bloom nutes.
During the *transition* Is what I call week zero into the flower period, here I start the 12/12 at 50% HPS power, with a blend of Veg and Bloom nutes.
Hence Transition period.
Then the girls get use to the 12/12 and use to the nutrient change. Then week 1 of flower begins with full on 100% lighting and Bloom nutes.
D.A.A.S.69
New member
Yes, Seedsman might be the one that gets the most business, but there are several more seed banks, that do just as well, maybe not as many freebies as Seedsman, but you will still receive your seeds though. Just as fast as Seedsman, unless they get stopped at customs.
Zaxar
New member
i also have my one biggest qustion about growing this wonderful plant!
It's been more than year since I started active growing. more I learn, more I upgrade my box. Day by day my growing skills are increasing. One year ago, I couldnt imagine to have such pofessional growing tools and lights.
So sometimes I ask myself, will I ever be satisfied with my growing conditions? I think that once you start growing there is no way back. You always want to grow and grow better. Would be glad to hear your experience
It's been more than year since I started active growing. more I learn, more I upgrade my box. Day by day my growing skills are increasing. One year ago, I couldnt imagine to have such pofessional growing tools and lights.
So sometimes I ask myself, will I ever be satisfied with my growing conditions? I think that once you start growing there is no way back. You always want to grow and grow better. Would be glad to hear your experience
Paracelsus
New member
I too have learned a lot but have yet to plant my first grow. I think the most valuable thing I have learned is to feed the soil not the plant.
D.A.A.S.69
New member
Paracelsus, right again, my friend. You have been doing some learning.
Let's get that seed in the soil.
Let's get that seed in the soil.
Paracelsus
New member
Actually, I’m trying hard to be patient. I still got to get some ducks in a row but I’ve got four blood orange pips sitting in some manure compost under the T fives. Checking temp and humidity levels in the room before I pop OG seeds
Paracelsus
New member
Patience, time, and organization skills
DopeDopyGWE
New member
I've been reading a lot and to be honest, Ive always learned best from GWE. To wash buds or not to wash them? I've always been curious but this particular harvest, I've more reasons to go for a wash. I had a spidermite infestation from another outdoor mint plant. This was around week 4 of flower. So with azamax, alcohol n water bla bla got rid of them. Or that's what I thought. Now week 10 and ready to harvest. A few odd mites here n there but very very rarely seen. And I execute them whenever I see them.
So that's one reason I'd wanna wash; get rid of the mites. No powdery or webs, buds and plants are safe .. but although I'm growing indoors and in a tent, avoiding dust is invebtanle where I live. Cat hair also adds to the whole collection.
​​​​​​Surprisingly, not an article on it on GWE. Nebula, share your wisdom....I really appreciate any feedback asap .
So that's one reason I'd wanna wash; get rid of the mites. No powdery or webs, buds and plants are safe .. but although I'm growing indoors and in a tent, avoiding dust is invebtanle where I live. Cat hair also adds to the whole collection.
​​​​​​Surprisingly, not an article on it on GWE. Nebula, share your wisdom....I really appreciate any feedback asap .
Paracelsus
New member
That’s a tough problem to have. The best defense is a STRONG ORGANIC IPM FROM THE START AND IN BETWEEN CYCLES.
You can watch the whole video or jump to 6:00
https://youtu.be/ytGiQCWotxI
You can watch the whole video or jump to 6:00
https://youtu.be/ytGiQCWotxI
DopeDopyGWE
New member
Thanks mate- I really appreciate your feedback however at this point I'm only concerned and have to decide ASAP in regards to washing aspects of the buds, given im almost done and will be harvesting very soon.
Paracelsus
New member
Hello look here from CC Coot
Looking for a pest spray that actually works?
Okay this is Awesome! I have had a few customers write in asking for tips on Home Made Pest Sprays that didn't require the use of Neem. Main reason being that as a grower, you might find yourself in a battle against pests and not have any Neem oil on hand. That being said I fired off an email to ClackamasCoots who is unbelievably helpful and he wrote back with this detailed email that was to good to summarize... here is the email conversation that we had this morning.
All Credit to ClackamasCoots:
Jeremy
Yes, you can use cilantro as well as other members of the Mint family (Lamiaceae or Labiatae) and the link has a list you can review.
The reason that Mint plants are as effective can be explained at this list for both culinary Lavender and medicinal Lavender - link
Look at the compounds and many of these are used commercially in their synthetic forms. Linalool is a good example, the synthetic form is what the Orkin Man sprays around homes, It’s these terpenes, terpenoids and ketones that provide pesticide and fungicide benefits.
So are some better than others? You bet! Fortunately the best ones are the easiest to grow - specifically peppermint, spearmint, lemon balm (!!!), thyme (add Borneol to your list with this one), sage, rosemary (!!!!) and of course cilantro. The problem with cilantro is that it’s a PITA to grow for more reasons than you’re probably interested in reading - LOL!
So generally what you want to do is to take a cup of leaves packed as tight as you can and put this into a blender, food processor, etc. with enough water and you want to turn this into a paste. Get it as smooth as possible. You can see why rosemary leaves are more of a challenge than say peppermint but it’s worth the time & effort.
Add the paste to 1 gallon of water and let that soak for no more than 24 hours. YOU DO NOT WANT ANY FERMENTATION!!!
Now strain & drain and you mix this with enough water to make 3 gallons of mint tea. Add the appropriate amount of aloe vera because you definitely want Salicylic acid in this mix as explained in the book I sent you about this hormone.
You can increase the power by taking a cue from Gil Carandang and add 1 tablespoon of fresh grated ginger for each 1 gallon of tea. These mint teas have proven to be as effective as neem oil - seriously. I cannot stress the need for aloe vera enough because it is at the core of a plant’s Systemic Acquired Resistance (SAR) functions and processes.
That’s it!
“Ain’t exactly rocket science†- something I read online - LOL!
ClackamasCoots
P.S. - next time you happen to be in a hydro store wander over to where the pesticides and fungicides are displayed and start reading the labels. And understand that in the fertilizer business the phrase ‘inert ingredients’ means water. Tap water. Period.
Looking for a pest spray that actually works?
Okay this is Awesome! I have had a few customers write in asking for tips on Home Made Pest Sprays that didn't require the use of Neem. Main reason being that as a grower, you might find yourself in a battle against pests and not have any Neem oil on hand. That being said I fired off an email to ClackamasCoots who is unbelievably helpful and he wrote back with this detailed email that was to good to summarize... here is the email conversation that we had this morning.
All Credit to ClackamasCoots:
Jeremy
Yes, you can use cilantro as well as other members of the Mint family (Lamiaceae or Labiatae) and the link has a list you can review.
The reason that Mint plants are as effective can be explained at this list for both culinary Lavender and medicinal Lavender - link
Look at the compounds and many of these are used commercially in their synthetic forms. Linalool is a good example, the synthetic form is what the Orkin Man sprays around homes, It’s these terpenes, terpenoids and ketones that provide pesticide and fungicide benefits.
So are some better than others? You bet! Fortunately the best ones are the easiest to grow - specifically peppermint, spearmint, lemon balm (!!!), thyme (add Borneol to your list with this one), sage, rosemary (!!!!) and of course cilantro. The problem with cilantro is that it’s a PITA to grow for more reasons than you’re probably interested in reading - LOL!
So generally what you want to do is to take a cup of leaves packed as tight as you can and put this into a blender, food processor, etc. with enough water and you want to turn this into a paste. Get it as smooth as possible. You can see why rosemary leaves are more of a challenge than say peppermint but it’s worth the time & effort.
Add the paste to 1 gallon of water and let that soak for no more than 24 hours. YOU DO NOT WANT ANY FERMENTATION!!!
Now strain & drain and you mix this with enough water to make 3 gallons of mint tea. Add the appropriate amount of aloe vera because you definitely want Salicylic acid in this mix as explained in the book I sent you about this hormone.
You can increase the power by taking a cue from Gil Carandang and add 1 tablespoon of fresh grated ginger for each 1 gallon of tea. These mint teas have proven to be as effective as neem oil - seriously. I cannot stress the need for aloe vera enough because it is at the core of a plant’s Systemic Acquired Resistance (SAR) functions and processes.
That’s it!
“Ain’t exactly rocket science†- something I read online - LOL!
ClackamasCoots
P.S. - next time you happen to be in a hydro store wander over to where the pesticides and fungicides are displayed and start reading the labels. And understand that in the fertilizer business the phrase ‘inert ingredients’ means water. Tap water. Period.
DopeDopyGWE
New member
Excellent man!
How about washing the buds?
How about washing the buds?