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Lots of ????

Dirt

Dirt

New member
Seeds?? Anyone have a go to auto flower seed company??? Do you pop your auto seeds or just plant into its forever pot, I see a lot about autos not like being transplanted,, pots?? Air pots, fabric or the plastic ones, thanks for all the info, I just want to do this as close to right the first time as I can
 
I've done about 6 auto strains and started all of them in cups with good success. I start them in the cups and then when they're ready transplant once into the pots they will call home. No problems. Starting in the cups actually helps IMHO because its easier to control the moisture in the soil around the seedling, getting better and faster growth right from the start. Just be real careful and gentle with them when you transplant and do it when they are ready. Also try giving them a little water with a rooting supplement like Hydro Guard or similar to help roots recover from any damage. Its a good supplement to use regardless every once in a while throughout your grow.
 
I absolutely agree with Zigzag about you get better growth out of your seedlings when they are in a cup because you control the water better than when they are in say a 5 gallon pot it's kinda hard to get it right, cause you don't want to water them to much or water them to little. As for seeds check out Nebulas articles on which companies She trusts, just know it's gonna take between 2or 3 weeks or maybe longer to get them. If you want them alot quicker check out SOS. -SouthernOregonSeeds , 3 or 4 days if you live in the States plus there is no Customs Check. Good Luck.
 
Dirt........ Started mine in 3 gal. pot outdoors. By soaking the soil a week ahead you start with a moist soil . I soak the seeds 24 hrs, plant 1/2 in. deep water them in and wait till they sprout. Then i mist them till the second set of leaves grow. By not using alot of water make the tap root grow deep to get to the pre.soaked soil, and the misting keep the sprouts moist enough. I have my plants next to the house on the west side, and gets direct sun after noon. That keeps the morning dew from drying to fast.and dont cook the babies
 
I grow in hydro. I pop the seeds using the paper towel method and a humidity dome. Once its popped I put it tap root down in a rapid rooter and keep it under the humidity dome for a day. From there it goes into the reservoir. I'm a new grower and this method has worked for me without fail.
 
I've never grown an auto personally but I have a local grower that I swap clones with that does autos on the side.he swears by Mephisto genetics and dinafem says they surpass most in quality, quantity, and especially flavor when it comes to mephisto.
 
🌱 I was always a hydro person, but when I grew autos, I used coco coir in fabric pots and basically followed this tutorial (though I did it with a 4'x4' tent and a 600W HPS instead of a 250W) and was very pleased with the results. I got over a pound in about 3 months with 8 plants! Basically no training except some light bending on the tall ones, just letting them grow naturally but close together (SoG style). I'm growing outdoors now, but I plan to do another auto indoor grow the same way once summer is over and the weather cools down again. 🌱
 
I'm getting a 4x4 I'm really thinking about the ceramic light, 315 I think?? Was the nutrients difficult with the autos?? I like the idea of just let them grow
 
If you go with a coco mix with other "neutral" mediums like perlite, growstones, pumice, whatever, then make sure the nutrients you use are made for coco.... if not you might find it a bit more difficult to maintain a constant PH in and out. For sure you will need to add a bit of extra Cal/Mag. The first grow I did I added about 30% coco to 50% Fox Farm Ocean Forest and 20% perlite. It worked well but adjusting the nutrients was a pain (because the coco and Fox Farm required different nutrients and application. I got Nutrient Lockout in 3 of 6 plants and had to flush them really well which was a pain. If you mix any coco with a soil based medium then my opinion you should keep it to less than 20%, from my experience. If you use all neutral elements then the application of nutrients is much easier, the PH is much easier to control since they will be designed to work in coco and no other influencing factors. The mix I use drains very fast so it is really easy to give them a light flush to avoid any kind of lockout and burn or buildup of salts. The worm castings help keep things under control_ a kind of buffer/ regulator of nutrient uptake and provide a little nutrients as well.
My mix is_ 25% coco, 25% perlite, 25% grow stones and 25% worm castings.
The coco holds moisture but drains better than most soil mixes, the perlite holds about 30% water and air and provides drainage, the grow stones hold about 40-50% water and air and provide drainage and the worm castings add a low nutrient base and provide conditions for good nutrient uptake.
Cheers!
 
Oh yeah_ if you try a mix that drains fast like the one I use then you do need to water more often because unlike growing outdoors the tap root obviously can't grow down any further than the bottom of the planter.
It can't grow deeper into the soil in search of water which is an advantage to growing outdoors. I'd like to try that but the environmental conditions here aren't very cannabis friendly!
 
🌱 I haven't tried an LEC yet, but everyone on here who's using one seems to like it! It's like a hybrid between MH and HPS, and I believe you can use the one light from seed to harvest. I'm not sure if you might need two 315's for a 4x4, or if one would be enough. I think you could start with one, and then see if you need more.

When it came to autos and nutrients, they seemed basically the same as photoperiod plants, just a little more sensitive to high levels of nutrients. Definitely start at half strength nutrients at first! One thing that's cool about autos is most nutrient companies give you a nutrient schedule that assumes a 4 week vegetative stage, and then transitions to flowering. With photoperiod plants, you just repeat week 4 for as long as you're in the vegetative stage. With the auto you can follow the schedule exactly as is since the vegetative stage will last about 4 weeks naturally. So it's cool you can just follow the schedule week-by-week without repeating weeks or figuring anything out.

I think growing with autos may be easier than with photoperiod plants because you don't have to worry about light leaks or light schedules, BUT if they get really stunted when they're young, it will ruin your whole grow and you'll want to start over. This page has a good explanation of what a stunted auto-flowering plant looks like about halfway down the page: http://www.growweedeasy.com/how-to-train-autoflowering-cannabis-strain If your photoperiod seedling gets stunted, you can just keep it in veg until it recovers. With an auto if it gets stunted, it will stop getting bigger so you need to start new plants to get a decent yield.

So it's really important to start the seed right and avoid overwatering. But if you give them a good environment, I feel like autos grow faster than photoperiod plants, and you get more yield in less time. My last indoor grow was autos, I'm doing photos outside right now, but my next indoor grow I think I'm going to do a bunch of autos again. It just made so much bud!

The other main thing to worry about, is if you get seeds from a untrustworthy breeder, sometimes they don't automatically start making buds, or take way too long to auto. If that happens, you have to put them on a 12/12 schedule like a photoperiod plant, and you basically lose all the benefits.

So if you do grow autos, make sure to get your seeds from a reputable breeder! I liked the autos I grew from Mephisto Genetics and Nirvana the most, but there's lots of good ones! 🌱
 
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