Pmoe90
New member
These are my babies at 3 weeks! They are small but I still have hope. They are grown outside. They are bag seeds so I have no info on them. I don't really have a questions just would like people's thoughts on how they are looking
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3 week opinions
- Thread starter Pmoe90
- Start date
Newf
New member
Yes you should water before transplant to keep dirt held together. But, in general we tend to over-water our young plants. It causes slow growth and pale, droopy leaves due to lack of oxygen to the roots. Small plants use very little water. You should let the soil get dry to at least knuckle deep before watering.
ZigZag
New member
You have the right idea_ you want the medium in the cup to hold together as much as possible_ you don't want it too wet or too dry_ it should be moist but not wet or dry.The type of medium_ soil, coco, or whatever mix you have going_ its hard to tell from the photos_ but it looks like some type of soil mix_also will affect how well it holds together. How well the roots are developed and have grown into the medium_ will make a big difference in how well everything holds together too. Thats why folks recommend waiting until the leaves have extended out to the edges or a little beyond_ so that the roots have time to develop. You want them to basically grow out to the sides and bottom of the cups but not much more than that_ definitely not to the point they become root bound. From the photos it looks like you have some in cups and others in larger pots. The ones in the larger pots have a ways to go before you transplant them. If you have to dig them out then you'll damage at least some of the roots. Even the ones in the cups could go a few days longer at least. When you decide to go for it first try the largest plant in one of the plastic cups. Take a pair of scissors and carefully slide the bottom blade down the into the cup on one side with the other on the outside. Then cut through the cup to the bottom. Hold the cup in your hand at about 45 degree angle, peel back the plastic so you can get a look at the roots/medium. the medium should kinda hold together and keep its shape and you should see some small roots along the outside. If the medium starts to crumble apart its too dry or too wet. Obviously if water runs out then its too wet. Tape the cup back together and wait until the moisture content is right. When they are ready I cut down two sides of the cup, peel back the plastic back between the two cuts, turn the cup in my hand until the medium rolls out into my hand and then move it over to the larger pot and gently place it in the hole in its new home. Gently pack the medium around it to hold it all in place. Once I have the seedling in its new home and stable then I just tap the pot on the floor a few times so everything settles down but doesn't get packed too tight. The soil in the larger pot should be moist but not wet. A few hours later I spray the surface with a root stimulator in water PH to 6.0. This helps the roots to recover and get busy growing. If everything looks good the following day you've done good by her. Repeat as necessary for the others when they are ready. Good luck_ hope all goes well and that this helps you somewhat. Hydro Guard is a good rooting nutrient solution. And not expensive.
D.A.A.S.69
New member
Wow Porcha that is some great advice from Zigzag, Good Luck with your plants.
ZigZag
New member
Porcha_ sure, hope it works out. The larger pots look like they might be 2 or maybe even 3 gallon pots. If the plants are less than 20" tall at maturity they should be OK in 2 gallon pots. But 3 gallon would be better.
Larger pots also don't need to be watered as often as smaller ones. Once your plant gets over a foot tall it will start using a lot more water and then you'll need to water every day or two. So if that happens then I'd recommend using just plain water every other application to help avoid nutrient burn from watering so often. Hope that helps now and in the long run!
Larger pots also don't need to be watered as often as smaller ones. Once your plant gets over a foot tall it will start using a lot more water and then you'll need to water every day or two. So if that happens then I'd recommend using just plain water every other application to help avoid nutrient burn from watering so often. Hope that helps now and in the long run!
Tazard
New member
Try checking pH of the runoff water. If when you water you don't get runoff soon after you start watering your soil needs better drainage. I suspect that pH or drainage is the reason why they are growing so slowly (just based on the look of the mix).
The seeds for these were planted 13 days before the picture.
The seeds for these were planted 13 days before the picture.
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D.A.A.S.69
New member
Hello Porcha You have to make sure your PH of your water is good first.
Tika
New member
I'm going to be frank: yes you really need the three added to 1 gal water in order stated with calimagic , do the pH of your nutes to 6 and you need to follow the GWE program. I assume you are in coco?
And you must pH your nutrients. Period.
I can't/ and won't guild the lily here...pull it together
And I say thiis with eagerness for your success. â¤ï¸
And you must pH your nutrients. Period.
I can't/ and won't guild the lily here...pull it together
And I say thiis with eagerness for your success. â¤ï¸
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D.A.A.S.69
New member
If you start your grow off in good soil your seedlings won't need any nutrients for 3or 4 weeks ,but you better make sure the water is in the right PH range 6.0 -7.0 for good results ,then when they are older and you start adding nutrients to your water it changes the PH again like Tika says. Good Luck with them Porcha
ZigZag
New member
PH is the things for sure. Short answer is that if your PH its too far to one end or the other then you get nutrient lockout which then builds up salts that just make things worse, then you end up having to flush everything and that is a real hassle. Since my tap water is 7.8 and I let it sit for 24-48hrs with an air stone in a 20 gallon container to get the chlorine out. I PH the water to about 6.0 after I put in in the "tank" and then again after I mix nutrients into each gallon.The coco nutrients I use are suppose to self regulate the PH but I still test it after letting it sit for 30 mins. Always ends up in the 5.8-6,2 which is best for coco. Soil should be a bit higher_ 6.0-7.0 but thats harder to figure out in soil because the nutrient contents and levels are harder to maintain. With soil it might take a few grows to find what work best for you and you might want to get a PPM meter as well as one that does PH. Cheers!
Pmoe90
New member
Ive ordered my ph up and my ph down. Ive also ordered the trio of nuts. The only issue i see coming up is i have to water to see what the ph is. My problem before was i was watering to much. Then after i check the ph id have to water again adding the right ph with the nuts. Is that not to much watering? Also do i add the nuts everytime i water? I only water once a week now. Hoping once the ph and the nuts are in they'll be ok.