Grow Journal For Silver Haze & Higg's Boson Haze

[PigSquishy]

This is my grow journal for the following two plants and strains, the Silver Haze is a from a clone and the second plant is Higgs Boson Haze, and this journal is going to be a few days off and there is a bit of confusion as to everything overall, but lets try to get this sorted out as to how I get to this point. The short of it is this, the plants are in a recirculating hydroponic system which has a very unique setup to it but in the end when everything is running correctly it's simple and effective to run and operate. Here in lays the problem, I unexpectedly received a massive brain trauma which has taken me from where I was at previously and left me where I am at today and 6-12 months for my brain to recover, during which time I sincerely hope to continue to get better and get more up to speed on things again. While however much time has passed now I can not speak for how I got things to this point beyond the notes I have which give me little tidbits of information to try to sort all of this out.

The clones I had previously taken and rooted under a T-5 (HO 6400k) Fluorescent bulb, were moved under the Bloom LED lights which then wiped out all but the last clone which was moved back under the T-5 where it has over time healed itself and grown quite the nice root structure during this period of unknown time. All the Higgs Boson Haze seeds were started, the only one which survived of the 10-seeds was the one which now lives, Silver Haze seeds were also started as was Purple Haze... and I have 1-Silver Haze Clone and 1-Higgs Boson Haze plants in total for all the seeds used and all the plants and clones. The plants in flower and veg both suddenly had an unknown problem and within 12-16 hours all the plants went from looking healthy to leaves which hung, twisted and died while still green. New seeds were tried to be started but they never popped out any roots or grew even after 14-days before being tossed away.

As of today the Silver Haze Clone is approx ~5-inches tall and has a small canopy really starting to fill in, the Higgs Boson Haze Seed is approx ~2-inches tall and very light green, they have been being given tap water at 8.50 pH and 950-ppm (yes even with my brain injury these are not typo's for the numbers. So I am going to start counting today as Day-1 since they have been moved into what I call "The Blue System" which just tells me I've set everything up for Veg growth, they are under a P-300 Platinum LED light, Ocra lined walls, on a recirculating hydro system being boosted at 15-GPM of air for every 1-Gallon of water.

Day-1 (Today): Blue System Started
Water Changed- Day-1
System Water Level- Full
pH- 6.10
PPM's- 121
Water Temp- 77.7
Air Temp - 80
CO2- Off
Air Recirculation/Exchange- On 24-7
Veg LED

Week-1 Nute Schedule (Cultured Solutions) 0.5 ml per gallon A&B
( NO - Cal-Mag! )
( NO- UC ROOTS! )
Yucca Root (1/16 tsp per 5-gallons water - Directions)
OminA

CX Clone Start (Foliar 1-2 Week)
Distilled Water & Yucca Root (Mist Anytime Foliar)

[OzBud]

Wishing you all the best for your recovery.

Any problems or questions then ask away and we'll be more than happy to assist you in any way we can.

[oldjarhead100]

ya welcome greenthumb any questions ask away.

[PigSquishy]

Thank You both, I very well may need to ask some questions, I know I need to start another post to see if someone here might be able to help me with the DIY Chiller designs I was working on I am not trying to make sense of, among some other growing related questions.

[PigSquishy]

Day-2 Blue System
Water Changed- Day-2
System Water Level- Full
pH- 6.20
PPM's- 129
Water Temp- 79.1
Air Temp - 83
CO2- Off
Air Recirculation/Exchange- On 24-7
Veg LED

Week-1 Nute Schedule (Cultured Solutions) 0.5 ml per gallon A&B
( NO - Cal-Mag! )
( NO- UC ROOTS! )
Yucca Root (1/16 tsp per 5-gallons water - Directions)
OminA
+ Humic Acid (1/2 tsp)
+ Kelp (3/4 tsp)

CX Clone Start (Foliar 1-2 Week)
Distilled Water & Yucca Root (Mist Anytime Foliar)

Both plants have been misted multiple times again today with Yucca root and they have both shown signs of noticeable growth and coloration for their sudden growth, of note the two plants appear a little tiny bit of a different shade of green today, I believe it is because I balanced the pH now when I switched them to the Blue system thus I expect 3-4 days before the plants get to the colors of green I would expect them to be. The water temps are high right now because of some issues with warm outside temps, I am hoping to get those temps down here sooner than later, as I know the warm root temps are slowing the growth potential of the plants overall. I also would like to get the plants started on Magic Green ASAP, but I am going to stick to just Clone Start spray for now on both of them as I am more concerned with root growth potential at this point versus top growth. I have been noting on using the Yucca Root Distilled Water mix, that after spraying it with the Yucca Root the leaves really try to push for more layers of compact growth. I'm always so impressed with Yucca Roots effects on pushing for more leaf growth, and atomizing the spray really does make a noticeable difference in its effects versus just trying to use a spray bottle to try to mist the spray.

When I transferred the plants from the Cloning Tray into the Growstones I noted the root structure on the Silver Haze Clone, it had a lot of hair like structure for the roots, comparable to a head of hair, the entire 3/4 of the Rapid Rooter Plug was filled with roots pouring out the sides and bottom of the plug, the root lengths were an easy 18-24 inches in length, down around my elbow as I had the Rapid Rooter plug in my hand to make the transfer. Given the size of the clone and its root structure, I honestly have my questions on if it was the Root Tec rooting gel, or was it the Clone Start which really pushed for that kind of a root structure growth?

The Higgs Boson Haze seed had 3-4 inch roots coming out of the bottom of the Rapid Rooter Plug, and it was only several single hair like roots, and while I know a clone and a seedling have different root structures I am rather curious as to what makes such a huge difference in this explosion of roots on the clone. In the future I am going to have to do a control of using the CX Clone Start on some and not on others and see if that is what caused this explosion of roots, and also do a control on seeds to see if I can achieve the same effects on a seedling using it.

I added Humic Acid & Kelp to stimulate more root growth and to help start to allow for the plants to uptake more nutrients easier, it should balance out my concerns about too low of a Nutrient blend, but also not allow for me to burn them either by this decision. Now lets see how making this decision affects things now...

[PigSquishy]

Day-3 Blue System
Water Changed- Day-3
System Water Level- Full
pH- 6.20
PPM's- 124
Water Temp- 74.2
Air Temp - 81
CO2- Off
Air Recirculation/Exchange- On 24-7
Veg LED

Kept spraying with Kelp Yucca Root mixture to keep plant humidity up


Day-4 Blue System
Water Changed- Day-4
System Water Level- Full
pH- 6.20
PPM's- 127
Water Temp- 79.1
Air Temp - 86
CO2- Off
Air Recirculation/Exchange- On 24-7
Veg LED

Silver Haze Clone, has one lower leaf with brown edging around it as it is dying off... backing off from kelp & yucca root mixture for foliar spraying... plant's don't look over fertilized, and I know that lower leaf has had issues up to this point, but now I just feel is the proper time to sit back do just straight water mistings and then start Green Magic foliar spraying next week.

[PigSquishy]

Day-5 Blue System
Water Changed- Day-5
System Water Level- Full
pH- 6.20
PPM's- 134
Water Temp- 77.1
Air Temp - 82
CO2- Off
Air Recirculation/Exchange- On 24-7
Veg LED

The Silver Haze clone has shown a remarkable change in its color of green shading, it went from a pretty 'average green grass' color to something more darker, richer reminding me more of an evergreen color, but not too dark. Overall I know that specific color of green to mean the nitrogen and other nutrients are finally now in a perfect blended balance, upon seeing this early in the day, I knew that if I was 100% in reading this color correctly I'd have proof of it later in the day. My proof came later in the day when the leaves suddenly grew bigger as well as more of them as the plant really seemed to take off, that sweet spot I've been hoping to find and hit when every plant just rapidly takes off for its fastest growth spurts when its the happiest. I've been very excited around this clone's root structure since it was transplanted because the root system is very impressive. What I believe has made the root structure so impressive was as Dr Whitcomb brought forth about the drying out of the main tap root early on, and looking back at the notes taken on the clone and seedling I am now seeing this is exactly what perhaps would be the cause of what I am seeing now.

When replacing the cloning tray, a different type of a system was gone with which cost only a little bit more verses the cheapest ones which I've been using for years. The black tray for example is made of a more rigid black plastic that doesn't want to shift and twist and break when trying to carry a flat of seedlings. The inner tray is designed of some Food Grade plastic and is suppose to hold Rapid Rooter / Rockwool cube style plugs on one side and you flip it over and its suppose to hold some different type of a plant plug. I noted early on the water is 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch below the plugs being held, and according to Dr Whitcomb that is exactly the kind of system you want to get this massive root explosion early on in the plants growth to cause this massive root explosion. The humidity dome which also was replaced was the big, tall humidity dome with the vents in the top, and so the humidity was properly controlled and everything lined up accordingly to the way he outlines the way to increase root system structures. Unsure previously if this was caused by the cloning gel that was switched too or what, more things are becoming apparent the root structures I am now seeing are being brought forth by the combination of various things, not just one single aspect of one change.

I've been listening to "Dr. Carl Whitcomb, Improving Plant Root Systems" on YouTube and listening to what he has to say about how early on in a plant's life cycle you have a very short window of opportunity to really stimulate a plant's roots on a massive scale. Harley Smith, (Ph.D) also has helped me to better understand the plant's rooting system. I have questioned if anything would come from their information when applied to seeds and clones, and I haven't been disappointed for what the results are.

*** In a separate experiment going on I have a plant with a massive and very well established root system in which was seriously butchered above the fruit bearing line, to allow for the chance of regrowth and life to do some further experiments for a deeper understanding of the root system and see if I truly have a deeper understanding of how everything I've learned applies. The results have been nothing short of impressive per the data I've had collected over the period of a few months its been going on, the short of it is simply this. If the root structure is well established and is healthy, repairing and growing a new upper structure for leaves accels at a much faster rate, as well as allows the plant to have the feeding structure to grow even bigger better fruits both from increased nutrients, but also in the capacity of being able to hold the weight of such fruits. A discernible note of trunk size has also been noted in the more massive root structures, the bigger the root systems thus far, the bigger I've noted the trunk sizes. Air pruning the roots has been the biggest single key concept and feature for establishing a bigger stronger root structure, and keeping the pots 100% shielded from all light and sources heat have made massive differences.A combination of Yucca Root, Humic Acid (Fulvic Acid) and Kelp have also made huge changes to the root structures which have been well documented just like Harley Smith states in his lectures. The last big notable thing note covered directly which has also made considerable leaps and bounds in the root system growth has been the adding of air at 15-GPM for each 4-inch air two, and two air stones per 2.5 gallons of water, even in the recirculation tanks I am averaging 30-GPM of air being pushed into the water, and I've seen the nutrients stay stable longer by not causing the pH Meter to swing as far Up/Down and the EC-TDS has also been noted to stay stable for days longer before it begins to jump up and down. The roots on the other hand exploded with so many fine hair like roots it is comparable to a full head of hair and so massive and thick they prevented any air from the air stones reaching the surface of the water. The yields were also notably increased as the quality was top notch, so all in all these changes have only had positive results.

--------------

The Higgs Boson Haze seedling was off to a much rougher start, its root system is nice, but nothing compared to the impressiveness of that clone's root structure, but it is better than I'd commonly expect to see in a seedling. According to the notes I've been gathering on its life history, it has emerged from the Rapid Rooter plug and has been a very light pale green since it saw light the first time ever. Thus it was reasonably questioned if this strain just happens to have much lighter colored pale green leaves and stem? Up to this point since I've seen it and transplanted it I've questioned the same thing, but I've also questioned if the seed itself wasn't produced lacking a vital nutrient thus starving it since its emergence into the light. Starting it on a weak mixture of 0.5 ml Veg A&B, then adding Yucca Root, Kelp, Humic Acid was my attempt of trying to wean the seedling onto nutes in hopes of fixing the issue, and up to this morning, no signs or noticeable changes above the soil line has given any reason to believe anything significant was going on. While I do not have the words to exactly explain how I know or figure things out below the soil line I do, and all I can say on this is simply that I will make the claims of what I see and thus believe based off what I think I see, and when the plant's life cycle comes to an end, I'll be the first one to dissect the entire plant from the leaves to the roots to learn everything I can from every single part. So up to this point I've been noting that I believe the root structure of this seedling is growing and developing a very strong and healthy root structure, thus it has stalled in its progress of doing nothing at all above the soil line, and I've had nothing to support any of this.

Early this morning, not only did I note a special "green" color of the other plant, but I also noted a change in the light pale green of this seedling as well, which I questioned if it was a personal change in vision given my brain issues I fight with now, but it was confirmed I was seeing this 100% correctly. The seedline went from being its pale light green and became more of a kelp seaweed green, It is not common to see such a wide range of a shift in a green color in such a short period of time, but given what I saw last night in how the leaves were reacting on both plants I was under the strong impression I hit the max Kelp/Yucca Root foliar spraying on both plants I dare go to. After so much time you can just look at a plant and know when you need to add a little more or less of something without the leaves and plant needing to broadcast it in the changing of the leaves in massive ways, so I very much rely on those slightest observations of the simplest things to know what I need to do and when. I was actually so concerned in how I saw things changing suddenly late last night, I would not have been shocked to wake up and either see the seedling laid over on its side or it or the Silver Haze having leaves which would maybe have appeared burnt to the point of being scorched by sun or nutes. Instead to see it this rich dark healthy green, I next feared I was going to going to hit nitrogen toxicity later in the day and watch the plant hit sudden death and even considered doing an emergency flush and nutrient stripping with the hopes of trying to save it, only to realize any suddenly and abrupt changes like that would surely kill it without question being it is only ~2 inches tall still with only a few very small leaves.

Coming back to check things later in the day was scary because I assumed I knew what to expect, only to my shocked surprise the plant's colors have continued to become a deep rich healthy green to the point dare I say it that it has now matched the other plant's color at this point and time. By the end of the day it would sprout and grow new leaves and even start to yellow the lower leaves on both plants as they both seemingly cry for more Kelp-Yucca foliar spraying, which I've responded with giving them. Carefully reviewing what notes I have on everything, it has become apparent this seedling has been lacking something vital, which kelp and humic acid have allowed the doors to open and fulfill but only when given as a foliar spray, which tells me its a nutrient deficiency and I need to turn to a Fulvic Acid as well as using Kelp & Yucca in the foliar spray. The point of seeing both plants now having yellowing on the lower leaves, but pushing for more top growth of new leaves and pushing out their current leaves wider has opened my eyes to their current root condition being where I have wanted to believe it is.

Neither plant ever suffered or showed any signs of transplant shock, and while their leaves never changed I was noting the stem sizes have been becoming wider and stiffing up in preparations for more top growth, which clued me into the root structure must also be growing. That too would be confirmed today when both Rapid Rooter plugs became 90% dry and both plants kept their leaves pointed upwards even to the point of standing straight up into the air like spikes.

[oldjarhead100]

wow greenthumb that is a detailed grow journal . well focused and articulate would like to see some pictures . I have had amazing results from voodoo juice with roots but it is really expensive

[alltatup]

I have also had much, MUCH stronger root systems on my two current grows using Voodoo Juice, and I added Pirhana. You only use it for a couple of weeks in veg and flower, so in the long run, it's not so expensive...

[PigSquishy]

Thank You, I try to write down even when I change something in there... later when you go WTF did I change and what is causing... you can go back to the smallest details and compare notes to truly look back and see what did you really change. I learned when I switched from fluorescents to powerful LED's that my Mag dropped and my plants had all kinds of issues. It was only later on I'd go back and find my problem started with the LED change, and so I begin digging for problems known for switching to LED and suddenly I found others with the same issue I faced and it was an easy fix. It also helps to keep detailed notes especially when you have lots of different types of plants growing, Keeping detailed notes also really helps to dial in what I am doing right or wrong with each plant so I can adjust its specific nutes by spoon feeding it that one nutrient to keep everything as healthy as possible and saves me a lot of money from having to buy premade things like Voodoo Juice.

--------------

Day-6 Blue System
Water Changed- Day-6
System Water Level- Full
pH- 6.20
PPM's- 138
Water Temp- 77.1
Air Temp - 82
CO2- Off
Air Recirculation/Exchange- On 24-7
Veg LED

Both plants are showing signs of lighter green again after quite the growth spurts today again, will post some photos of their progress soon for more detailed comparisons week by week. I believe the lighter green coloring comes from the rapid growth of so many of the leaves in both size and span, the top leaves have now grown 2-3 times larger than the lower leaves on both plants, this is a positive sign as the plants are trying to now create a shade cover over the lower leaves as they soak up more of the light. Leaves are also now starting to lay down with a thicker canopy as they stack one right on top of the other, clearly no signs of stretching or issues. With the water change tomorrow I plant to star them on OminA and Cal-Mag as they are clearly starting to show signs of needing more Mag.

[PigSquishy]

Day-7 Blue System
Water Changed- Day-7
System Water Level- Full
pH- 6.20
PPM's- 143
Water Temp- 79.9
Air Temp - 78
CO2- Off
Air Recirculation/Exchange- On 24-7
Veg LED

[NebulaHaze]

Amazing detail! I can't wait to see pictures!

[PigSquishy]

These photos were all taken Day-6, and have been sprayed 3-times more with a foliar mixture of Kelp, Yucca Root, mixed in with CX Clone Start and then the next photos following these are to work as a comparison for if any changes are occurring from this mixture with a 24-hour time period,

[PigSquishy]

Day 7

These photos are for comparison of the changes I am seeing in 24-hours from the 3 photos above which were taken with a flashlight. These new photos have been taken under a better lighting, not a flashlight... Only a period of almost 24-hours has now passed since taking the photos as I try to keep time frames and photo angels, etc.. as near to what they where to help with comparisons for comparison values. In person there is a very noticeable difference of changes within 8-12 hours.

While on the Veg Cycle I am going with a light period of 6-hours of light, followed by 2-hours of darkness... three times a day equally out to be 18-hours of light, 6-hours of darkness per every 24-hour period. It is during the dark period that I am really seeing the noticeable major changes, As the 6-2 light period is explained as someone running at a full sprint for so long, then you wear down and get slower and slower... until the end... But what if you were to run at your fastest until you started to slow down, stopped, rested and then ran just as fast and as hard as you could again... how much more distance would you accomplish? That is the theory they say behind this 6-2 light schedule, all I know is that no matter the plants I've subjected this too, I've seen more growth in short periods of time than I know to commonly expect, thus why I now follow this lighting schedule in Veg. *** Note this lighting schedule DOES NOT WORK IN BLOOM!!! Instead in Bloom they get 14-hours of lighting and 10-hours of darkness, instead of the 12-12... because again I am going with science based on plants outside who if they needed 12-12 lighting periods wouldn't ripen and finish until December. I got this information from the company "Surna" who is the hydro cooling leader for the industrial cannabis industry, as a hobbyist grow you may know them as "Hydro Innovations" and if you are into Chillers you would know them if I called them " Chill King", But if you want to read their articles and information, their company name is Surna and they write some amazing articles for the cannabis commercial-industrial industry where one pointed out, 10,000 plants is really nothing in today's cannabis growing industry, as 100,000 plants is much more common for businesses to be growing today.

[PigSquishy]

Day-8 Blue System
Water Changed- Day-8
System Water Level- Full
pH- 6.20
PPM's- 147
Water Temp- 78.8
Air Temp - 79.5
RH- 45.0
CO2- Off
Air Recirculation/Exchange- On 24-7
Veg LED

*Forgot to put in the RH values, started putting the RH value into the records at this time forward
** Forgot to also to start putting in the amount of pH added to the water as well, as it does seem to vary from time to time and I do compare it later with monthly water record reports to see if I can detect why

+ Today's Photos... the one (in the back with the discolored Yellow Bottom Leaves is Silver Haze Clone, the one in the front is Higgs Boson Haze (seed)

Higgs Boson Haze- Noted a much larger canopy going wider, enough the stem has started to bend away from the green plant marker as you can see in the photo, this is being cause by the new weight of the leaves from the canopy, this is a good sign as the canopy is stressing the stem to grow stronger and stouter.

Silver Haze- Noted the stem has really undergone some of its own changes today and it is now less soft stem plant material and now much more woody and thicker as it has started the changes to really begin to make the stalk, clearly the time has come to start adding OminA to the water to increase the uptake of calcium, as both plants are clearly in need and are ready to start increasing nutrient uptake as well. However, looking at the PPM's at 147 and not having the time today, I am going to skip doing the water change on time. Here is the basis for my reasonings as to why I am foregoing to skip the water change for at least one more day:

The water temps are holding in the high 70's, which helps to seriously speed the root development and root growth, however the reason nobody wants to have water temps so high is because it also makes a rich breeding ground for pathogens at warmer temps, including but not limited to things like root rot, etc... I've run out of Humic Acid, and since the PPM's are still under 150 I can squeeze one more day out of the water, more if I really need to push it while I wait for more Humic Acid to arrive. Thus it becomes a real question as to how long I can keep the water stable, when the PPM's start to jump more than -1 I know the nutrients have hit their limited time of being good, but I hate to do that because I know in the long run plants suffer for water changes not being done on time. 7-10 days on a water change MAX... I can keep things stable up to 14-17 days, but seriously every time I've ever done that in hydro no matter the plant(s) I've always seen deficiencies for it later down the road 2-3 weeks later on it seems. I also know I can spike my PPM's higher than 150, but I've again found that it really stresses the plant and while it is not a stress which shows right away, it does stunt growth and really screw up things for needing to do a flush sooner than later. Such small plants are much easier affected by higher PPM's, so I won't let them pass 155 PPM's as a MAX.

[PigSquishy]

Day-9 Blue System
Water Changed- Day-9
System Water Level- 3/4
pH- 6.10
PPM's- 147
Water Temp- 76.0
Air Temp - 78.5
RH- 45.0
CO2- Off
Air Recirculation/Exchange- On 24-7
Veg LED

Finally the water level is 3\4 and the pH is now down to 6.10, the water level having dropped more and the pH going down, not up for me that is a HUGE big sign of good. I was so hoping to see the changes I am now seeing in the first 10-14 days, as far as root development and canopy development is concerned so I am on schedule as planned. I' preparing the water today for tomorrow's water change, which means bringing it to a temp within a couple of degrees of what it is at right now, to prevent transplant shock by delivering too cold or too hot of water outside of the water temps they are enjoying right now. Next I will also make sure that pH is 6.10 when I do the water change since I finally got it down to 6.20 last time when I started the system. The reasoning behind 6.20 and not 6.00 is the water they had been being given to that point was 8.50 pH and they were showing signs of the start of nutrient deficiencies do to improper pH levels... thus starting at 6.20 was based off the nutrient deficiencies I felt I saw and going off from what I believed the best pH was to bring them too. I read them right, they pulled right out of issues within hours, and now I'm bringing it to 6.10 and then later it'll get to 6.00 as a starting base point and I will let it swing or do whatever it wants to do until the water change. The pH will never swing more than +/- 0.20 because of the way things are setup, and it will never need to be adjusted beyond its original set numbers until the day of the next water change.

The Higgs Boson Haze (seed) the stem has now been seriously bent in a curve because the plant canopy is now so heavy the stem is now bending in the form of a curve under the weight as it continues to try to keep the canopy upright and centered under the lighting. I'm seriously surprised the stem hasn't snapped or folded over under the weight, but I keep hoping the stem will strengthen itself and push itself back upright. However this has to be seen as a good sign, and also taken as a sign the need to start using OminA, which I was hoping to start today, but in light of the changes in pH and the steady level of PPM's I have set up for the water change tomorrow and not today as hoped for. I find it important to be able to read the data in numbers and compare it to what the plants are doing and make educated assessments of what to do, when to change water, etc... verses just trying to stick to a regulated set ridged schedule, and it has always worked out best for me.

I did spray Yucca Root & CX Clone as a foliar spray as well as Kelp & Yucca as the base humidity spray, I'm always so impressed by what a little bit of Yucca & Kelp can do as a foliar spray on even the smallest of plants to really take off, the key always being doing so in the use of a weak mixture for foliar spray. Hoping the mixture of the two different foliar sprays today really help because after the water change today, when the plants get all settled into their new mixture I really hope to mix up some Magic Green (1-ml per 1-Quart Distilled Water) and spray the plants to really start pushing for more Veg growth. I must keep reminding myself in Veg, keep the nutrients slightly on the weaker side verses the stronger side, as Veg growth is the last point and time I want to stress a plant, but rather want to stress it in flowering at the "right" time for increased bud and potency.