What is the key to getting larger more dense buds? Also in a 6x3 tent what would be the best light option for optimal results? (preferably LED)
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I like LED’s but I am not sure about quoting a preferred brand. My preference is a large style COB, and you can find DIY instructions if you want to build.. you can even find ready to assemble kits so you can customize to your shape.
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Genetics, strain, and LIGHT! I want COB style DIY but until I can afford to invest that money I'm buying used MH/HID fixtures and new bulbs to get started. Another KEY ingredient is knowledge AND Experience, you can find that here @ GWE by using the tutorials available here. The search function works great ! I just searched Getting larger more dense buds and this popped up first. http://www.growweedeasy.com/dense-buds
Top 5 Most Common Reasons for Airy Marijuana Buds
(get a complete breakdown of all the ways to increase bud density in the article below)
Light - The most common reason buds don't develop as densely as they could is the plant didn't get enough light in the flowering stage. Although cannabis can survive in relatively low light levels, it won't produce much bud. Up to a point, more light in the flowering stage = bigger buds. On the flip side, too-bright light (less common, but can happen when buds are too close to grow lights) can also cause buds to develop poorly and/or produce airy, hairy fox-tails.
Strain / Genetics - Some strains will only produce airy buds no matter what you do. For example Sativa plants often grow buds that are less dense, while Indica buds tend to grow more compact. Although one style isn't necessarily better than the other, if you want dense buds it's important to start with genetics that come from a plant that grows dense buds.
Temperature - Cannabis wants the temperature just right for optimal bud growth, which is about the same temperature as what's comfortable for humans. Too hot temps in the flowering stage (especially above 85°F/30°C) can cause plants to develop loose buds, and can also cause buds to herm and become seedy.
Nutrients - Buds won’t fatten and get dense unless they're getting the right nutrients at the right time, which means low Nitrogen (N) and plenty of Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K) in the flowering stage. Giving too much Nitrogen (found in all-purpose plant food) in the flowering stage results in smaller, looser buds. Learn more about nutrient ratios. Other nutrient problems and deficiencies can also negatively affect your bud development if left unchecked. However, the most common reason growers see nutrient problems hurt development in the flowering stage is incorrect pH at the plant roots.
Airflow & Bud Spacing - Poor airflow around buds and lack of strong, direct light will prevent those buds from developing as densely as they could. Buds need a little space to themselves in order to get big and dense, and won't fatten up if they're not directly exposed to fresh air and strong light. In the wild cannabis is a wind-pollinated plant, so it only spends energy growing and fattening buds that are exposed to a breeze and the sun. To make sure the buds are getting a breeze, each big cola on your plant should have a few inches of space around it that it's not sharing with leaves or other buds.
Never grow loose, airy buds again!
These buds are fluffy and airy - not dense at all. This tutorial will show you how to make your cannabis buds grow compact and dense every time!
6 More Tactics to Increase Bud Density
In addition to fixing the problems stated above, here's a complete breakdown of additional tactics to increase bud density (more complete info in the article below or click the links)
Reduce humidity below 45% RH during last 2-3 weeks before harvest - Lowering the humidity towards the end of the flowering stage triggers a natural plant response that can make buds more dense as well as increase resin production
Density Boosting Supplements - There are two main classes of bloom-boosters. The first class focuses on enhancing plant processes, and uses dozens of various ingredients like amino acids and trace minerals. The second class works by increasing Phosphorus/Potassium levels directly. Some growers also use Blackstrap molasses in order to accomplish many of the same goals without needing a special plant supplement.
Don't harvest too early! Harvesting too early will prevent your buds from finishing up. They gain a lot of weight and density during the last few weeks before harvest, and you're hindering all your hard work by not waiting just a little longer.
Dry & Cure Your Buds - In addition to improving taste, smell and potency, drying and curing your buds the right way will cause them to "tighten up" a bit. If you dry your buds too quickly or don't cure them in glass jars, you're missing out on almost 50% of what's going to determine your final bud quality!
Don't overwater your plants - it's boring but true! Not much to say about this, but don't overlook this common issue and make sure to water your plants right. If your plants leaves are droopy, it means you could be missing out on better growth!
Get a Big Enough Container - If your container is too small your plant just won't be able to support bigger, denser buds no matter what else you do. Make sure to get the right size container and if possible, get a "smart pot" or "air pot" as they prevent overwatering, increase growth and support larger plants!
Continue reading to learn more in depth about these tactics and techniques to boost buds density!
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I have two questions, I have searched for both but have so far come up empty. First, when the nutrient schedule includes a transition period, is this the week before you flip to 12/12 or the week after flipping to 12/12 before flowers start to form? Second, what is the bare minimum amount of light to get to a successful harvest if you are concerned only with producing a few seeds and have no concern for yield or even getting any consumable material? My idea is to take six clones (because they are different strains) and put them into small DWC totes in a circular pattern then suspend a 42w 2700k cfl vertically in the center. Would they survive and mature like this? I don’t want to pollinate them in my tent and would like to not have to DIY any sort of fancy lighting solution if it isn’t completely necessary.
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I believe you want to take your seeds from the plants displaying vigorous health and structure.
This is a how to for feminized seeds. doesn't really answer your questions though
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You are right, it doesn’t answer my question but good reading nonetheless. Thanks for the reply
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NOTTravis,
During the *transition* Is what I call week zero into the flower period, here I start the 12/12 at 50% HPS power, with a blend of Veg and Bloom nutes.
Hence Transition period.
Then the girls get use to the 12/12 and use to the nutrient change. Then week 1 of flower begins with full on 100% lighting and Bloom nutes.
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I think thefavorite here is Seedsman.Anyone can grow schwag. If you want to grow top shelf bud, study hard: https://www.growweedeasy.com
Growing since July 21, 2016; pothead since 1967
2 BCNL Roommate hydroponic grow boxes w/ 400w COB LEDs, Future Harvest nutes
Grow # 18, Aug. 2023: Anesia Seeds: Imperium X, Future 1, Sleepy Joe, Slurricane
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i also have my one biggest qustion about growing this wonderful plant!
It's been more than year since I started active growing. more I learn, more I upgrade my box. Day by day my growing skills are increasing. One year ago, I couldnt imagine to have such pofessional growing tools and lights.
So sometimes I ask myself, will I ever be satisfied with my growing conditions? I think that once you start growing there is no way back. You always want to grow and grow better. Would be glad to hear your experience
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Paracelsus, right again, my friend. You have been doing some learning.
Let's get that seed in the soil.
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Actually, I’m trying hard to be patient. I still got to get some ducks in a row but I’ve got four blood orange pips sitting in some manure compost under the T fives. Checking temp and humidity levels in the room before I pop OG seeds
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Originally posted by Flockshot View PostGrowing our plants has some things in common with flying an airplane. I can go over every fine detail of how to fly the plane. I can tell you exactly what to do when this happens and that happens. I can educate you on every detail of becoming a pilot. That does not mean that you can now fly the plane without crashing. You need experience before you will have a smooth flight form takeoff to landing.
That being said, what does a first time grower need, in order to have the best chance for a seed to harvest successful grow?
My Growing and going full tilt NoTill NTG thread https://forum.growweedeasy.com/forum...l-tilt-no-till
The universities do not teach all things
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I've been reading a lot and to be honest, Ive always learned best from GWE. To wash buds or not to wash them? I've always been curious but this particular harvest, I've more reasons to go for a wash. I had a spidermite infestation from another outdoor mint plant. This was around week 4 of flower. So with azamax, alcohol n water bla bla got rid of them. Or that's what I thought. Now week 10 and ready to harvest. A few odd mites here n there but very very rarely seen. And I execute them whenever I see them.
So that's one reason I'd wanna wash; get rid of the mites. No powdery or webs, buds and plants are safe .. but although I'm growing indoors and in a tent, avoiding dust is invebtanle where I live. Cat hair also adds to the whole collection.
Surprisingly, not an article on it on GWE. Nebula, share your wisdom....I really appreciate any feedback asap .
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Thanks mate- I really appreciate your feedback however at this point I'm only concerned and have to decide ASAP in regards to washing aspects of the buds, given im almost done and will be harvesting very soon.
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Hello look here from CC Coot
Looking for a pest spray that actually works?
Okay this is Awesome! I have had a few customers write in asking for tips on Home Made Pest Sprays that didn't require the use of Neem. Main reason being that as a grower, you might find yourself in a battle against pests and not have any Neem oil on hand. That being said I fired off an email to ClackamasCoots who is unbelievably helpful and he wrote back with this detailed email that was to good to summarize... here is the email conversation that we had this morning.
All Credit to ClackamasCoots:
Jeremy
Yes, you can use cilantro as well as other members of the Mint family (Lamiaceae or Labiatae) and the link has a list you can review.
The reason that Mint plants are as effective can be explained at this list for both culinary Lavender and medicinal Lavender - link
Look at the compounds and many of these are used commercially in their synthetic forms. Linalool is a good example, the synthetic form is what the Orkin Man sprays around homes, It’s these terpenes, terpenoids and ketones that provide pesticide and fungicide benefits.
So are some better than others? You bet! Fortunately the best ones are the easiest to grow - specifically peppermint, spearmint, lemon balm (!!!), thyme (add Borneol to your list with this one), sage, rosemary (!!!!) and of course cilantro. The problem with cilantro is that it’s a PITA to grow for more reasons than you’re probably interested in reading - LOL!
So generally what you want to do is to take a cup of leaves packed as tight as you can and put this into a blender, food processor, etc. with enough water and you want to turn this into a paste. Get it as smooth as possible. You can see why rosemary leaves are more of a challenge than say peppermint but it’s worth the time & effort.
Add the paste to 1 gallon of water and let that soak for no more than 24 hours. YOU DO NOT WANT ANY FERMENTATION!!!
Now strain & drain and you mix this with enough water to make 3 gallons of mint tea. Add the appropriate amount of aloe vera because you definitely want Salicylic acid in this mix as explained in the book I sent you about this hormone.
You can increase the power by taking a cue from Gil Carandang and add 1 tablespoon of fresh grated ginger for each 1 gallon of tea. These mint teas have proven to be as effective as neem oil - seriously. I cannot stress the need for aloe vera enough because it is at the core of a plant’s Systemic Acquired Resistance (SAR) functions and processes.
That’s it!
“Ain’t exactly rocket science” - something I read online - LOL!
ClackamasCoots
P.S. - next time you happen to be in a hydro store wander over to where the pesticides and fungicides are displayed and start reading the labels. And understand that in the fertilizer business the phrase ‘inert ingredients’ means water. Tap water. Period.
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It can be done. People do it fairly often. You can see lots of videos on YouTube. Different methods of washing for different stuff you're washing off.
Good luck
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DopeDopyGWE, I want to say I remember a thread about this within the last year. But I am not tech savy, hell I can't find my own journal half of the time lol.
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can you point me in the direction on using tap water (my only option) post? and using tap with cal mag im so confused because people say tap has all the minerals u need so no need for cal mag or something to that affect however ive seen grows on you tube using tap + cal mag and garden looks beautiful,i am torn
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so Reb I hope I can help I have hard tap water that means my water has dissolved solids in it by knowing what these solids are then you can cut down on those nutes that are lacking ,Now to use tap water I let it sit over night in a 5 gallon open bucket this allows the chlorine to evap . I still give my girls my full range of nutes when they are needed
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I converted from using CFL's to a Viparspectra 450W LED and can't figure out how far to keep the light away from my blooming babies. Everything I read gives different heights. They're currently 20 inches away and went into bloom 3/10 (auto-flowers).
lost some beautiful White Widows to light burn my last time around and now have a 32" x 32" x 64" grow tent, exhaust fan/carbon filter, dehumidifier and intake fan so I'm much better prepared but still feel like I can't figure out the lights.
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I started at 18 it burned the plants went to 22 they started stretching so I went to 20 inches and the plants love it just have to play around with it for a week or sonew grow room built summer of 2017 ,argo max tent for veging ,big kahuna reflector, 1000hps with added leds for the full spectrum . 15th indoor grow ,5 years outside gorilla grows(stealth is the key),veg under t5s growing autos under 300w leds
current grow https://forum.growweedeasy.com/forum...-new-grow-room
https://forum.growweedeasy.com/forum...-auto-vs-photo
https://forum.growweedeasy.com/forum...-week-4-update
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Yes, I'm with OJH, what is making it so hard to use this site, we might be able to help you .
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The search function works great WADE both for tutorials and for looking for thread topics. It’s pretty easy to start your own thread but I learned the most reading through all the great tutorials and hitting the links as I was reading each thread following it along to its conclusion. Yeah it’s a great search function and GWE I find to be the most Intuitive and user-friendly what exactly did you need help with.?
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hello, am a first time grower living in west Africa,I have the option of grow outdoor while I save up for an inverter and solar panel for indoor grow, but I really don't want to wait since I have the seed now, it's really sunny here but am not sure if I can get the 18hrs needed for vegetative weeks, what are my options, I have 3 regular ata tundra, and other auto seed... really need help on what option are best for me....thanks in advance
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More than 12 hours of sunlight per day is good enough. If the days are getting longer, it's going to be vegetative state. If the days start getting shorter, it'll soon start flowering. The plant knows when winter is coming and so start to flower.
Autoflowering will not require such light limitation, you could give it 8 hours of light per day and it would still flower, but you'd end up having a small plant. Autoflower is time limited though, once it's sprouted you can count 3 months til harvest.
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The search function in the tutorial section works very well I would read everything I could pertaining to outdoor growing that is a good question you have about how many hours for vegetative I bet you find the answer when you search outdoor vegetative. Try it good luck
by Nebula Haze If you're growing a cannabis plant grown from a random seed ("bagseed"), unless you somehow have an auto-flowering seed, you will need to understand about cannabis life stages and how they are affected by light periods. If you don't understand light periods, your plant may never start making buds! The light schedule experienced by your plant will actually change its life stage. Learn more...
Last edited by Paracelsus; 03-27-2018, 10:02 AM.My Growing and going full tilt NoTill NTG thread https://forum.growweedeasy.com/forum...l-tilt-no-till
The universities do not teach all things
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