Lighting.

[dontknownuttin]

I run a 600 watt in a 2 foot by 4 foot tent at 100% power no heat issues in my tent

[Nartak]

You should say that you have a Gorilla Tent that has about 0 - 0.01% leaks in light temps etc...That's gotta be a factor to be at ease with a 600w in such spaces!

[dontknownuttin]

Cool tube keeps lamp under 75 above

[Nartak]

Yeah i took the glass off from the hood to get to 75..These girls i got love the heat,the moisture AND the Light!! i thought they were gonna give me a hard time but then again,they are my first so i cant really know...

[Kyle1116]

Hey guys I got a little question that doesn't quite relate to lighting issues but it's related to humidity... I have the 3 auto seedling and the humidity is ranging between 40-50% is this a problem? Should I buy another humidifier or two? Should I be keeping it in the 60s during this stage? They're at about day 6

[bobsakamoto]

Kyle1116 our kids are the same age!!! and i have the exact same question!!

[Nartak]

Kyle1116 & bobsakamoto 40-50% is good but not great!Your plants will generate more RH as they grow!Also if you are worried and want optimum 40-60% put a bucket with water in there or shut off the exhaust fan(Timing it 2hours on 1 hour off or something like that is also good)..If that is not possible due to a hood or some other reason,you will have to go for a humidifier!40-50% is still ok to grow,i never had a stable RH over 55%

[Kyle1116]

I am going to purchase a humidifier suitable for an entire room to keep it at a steady 60% humidity.

[PigSquishy]

When it comes to keeping a stable humidity, well I think you will find it is a lot harder to gauge than you realize. First a dehumidifier if you read the little brochure they have where they sell them will even tell you when they say it will remove so much moisture for such and such sized room, they figure it at "optimal conditions". Now if you have a high humidity you need to increase the size of the dehumidifier, if you have a low humidity and want to get it even lower you again need to step up the size of the unit you have... At some point you just hit a place where the electricity needed to run the dehumidifier outweighs the fact it just isn't doing its proper job. So let's say you went with something like a Chiller run dehumidifier, which to sum this up for you has cold water being pumped through the dehumidifier at all times and only the fan kicks on as needed to move the air. Think of a cold glass of water sitting out on a hot day, same concept the moisture will collect and be removed from the air saving money on electrical and it can run non-stop 24-7...

Even if you had that issue all fixed up, the size of the plants, how the air flows around the room and in between the plants, etc... will really help to determine your end room RH % (humidity level)... and let's just say for the sake of argument you even went out and bought an environmental controller like the DEC-4 for $300 so you can really dial down the RH to set values for Day-Night and the swing number of when the dehumidifier would come on and went it would go off again... it would still be a real issue trying to control your RH precisely. If you have your entire growing area sealed air tight, the RH will really skyrocket and you will battle to lower the RH, but even then there is always something throwing off the RH high or low it seems... So while it does always seem like you will be able to keep a steady and set RH... I myself have had this pipe dream many times and never been able to do it, so if you do, please keep me in mind and tell me how you managed to pull it off.

The biggest issue is either you have the dehumidifier on or the humidifier on... it never seems like you should need both units at the same time, but it always seems like you are needing to switch them out every so often as to which one you need today, based on weather and times of the year.

[Kyle1116]

Also a quick little update. One of the auto seedlings is displaying signs of sickness...I think it may be slight nutrient burn from the soil

[Kyle1116]

[Nartak]

cant see what it makes of,is it yellow-e brunt like or moldy like...

[Kyle1116]

Just brown little dots kinda

[Nartak]

Ok,give us Ph and runoff Ph!First things first!! Now what soil are you using!!I have read here that (i think) there is a FF soil that will burn seedlings now matter what(i blieve it was ocean forest,not sure)

[PigSquishy]

Okay I think I know what it is, it's the one type mold commonly that leads to bud rot attacking your plant... at least that is what it clearly appears to me to be. Try this as an experiment to see if I am right on this, take a photo of your plant with the flash on your camera, look to see if more lighter spots show up in the photo which you can compare to what you see with your eyes and see if those lighter areas don't exist to the naked eye. I learned LED and the camera flash can show the reflection of the damaged being done by mold up to 5-7 days ahead of when you might actually see it with your eyes. When I discovered this on my own, I then went and found proof and evidence which backs up what I felt I discovered to be true and a fact.

If it is mold, there is a lot of ways to go about trying to attack it, the one which has always worked best for me personally is to just buy this $2 bottle of 3% hydrogen peroxide from the drug store which comes in it's own little spray bottle, and I just directly spray it on my plants. I've done this to seedlings which started to be hit by dampening off, I've done this to plants being full on attacked right near harvest and I was in need of a miracle to save me. In the time I've been doing this, I've hardly lost a plant to mold... before I discovered this I use to do the milk treatment for mold, just make sure it's room temp milk that you use and not cold milk from the fridge.

The other thing to really know if it really is mold as I suspect and believe it to be is that once a plant is infected with mold it is systemic, in other words it gets inside the plant and is almost impossible to get out of it, if you were to take a clone from a plant which has been hit by mold previously, the clone will also have mold in it, just waiting for the right conditions to attack the plant again and the others around it. There is some new Food Safe products from BIG AG that has come to the commercial guy's now that will actually kill mold and stop it being systemic, but it only comes in 2.5 gallon containers which is good news as they down sized it from the smallest being a 50-gallon drum. It's the only product I know of to actually treat and completely wipe out the mold, the others will kill the mold you see and stop the mold for now... until the conditions are right and it strikes again. What this really means for you at the end of the day is just to be aware and keep an eye out for mold, properly wet it down and clean it whenever you see it and do your best to never let any puddles of water sit around or give it a wet spot in which to find a place to grow. With mold knowledge to prevent it and fight it goes further than chemicals to try to fight it later on.

[Kyle1116]

A better view of what's going on

[Kyle1116]

I'm pretty sure it is nutrient burn...I don't think it could be anything else because I am using light warrior soil which isn't a very hot mix... I did give it a very light feeding which I technically shouldn't have lol

[Nartak]

I believe you covered it with

I did give it a very light feeding which I technically shouldn't have lol

Nutes are not n1 factor for growing a healthy,vigorous plant!Love,light and water are! Never forget,good ol canna-growers back in time didn't have all these nutes Kyle,they grew with shit,piss,molasses and water!!And ofc sunlight or later indoor lighting,but you can always grow without high ratio of NPK if you supply cal-mag-iron and the correct doses of

[dontknownuttin]

shit,piss,molasses and water HUH? I will run that mix by my WONDERFULL wife and see if she will let me use these items inside her home. Remember it is far easier to get forgiven than to ask permission.

[Nartak]

Lmao dude i want a pic of her face when u tell her u put that that in ur lungs LOL!

[PigSquishy]

I don't think you are taking Nartak seriously enough... it's not a joke, I learned how to compost waste so it can then be turned into the soil for the good healthy bacteria and the minerals to be returned into the soil, urine believe it or not straight from the body is so pure and clean it is used in nature to sterile newborn's after birth by the mother's. Gardeners still to this day will use fresh urine in their garden to help feed the plants, and black strap molasses feeds the positive bacteria's in the soil to help keep feeding the plant and pushing to get as much positive growth out of it before the end of the plant's life cycle.

While you may not take this seriously either, i am 100% serious... You will do more damage to a plant by giving it to much then to little nutrients, the more times you give it just a little bit to much you are hurting your end yield each and every single time. I've been growing and learning since the days of shit, piss and molasses and it is only because I've taken the time to really sit down and take what I am told seriously that has allowed me to get to the point of knowing as much as I do today.

[Nartak]

Green buddy thanks for this write-up!I believe urine was used by another member here ( Weed Pharma was it u? ) that used it against N toxicity!!Don't get worked over DkN,he fell in the pot as a baby lol! Luv ya DkN!!!

[Weed Pharma]

Nope, I don't piss on it- but if I did, the urine would be diluted in a 20:1 ratio- water to urine.

[Kyle1116]

Do you think I could put 6 plants with a 600 watt hps in a 4x4 tent?