There really isn't a "correct" PPM because it can be affected by a lot of things. If my starting water is 250 PPM and I add 300 PPM of nutrients, I have a total of 550 PPM. But if I started with 100 PPM water and added the same amount of nutrients, I'd have a total of 400 PPM even though the plant is basically getting the same levels of added nutrients. Then consider I might start with muddy water. It might be 1200 PPM even though it has really low levels of nutrients. So if I add 300 PPM of nutrients to that water I'd have a total of 1500 PPM and it wouldn't really have higher levels of nutrients than the water with a total of 400 PPM.
BUT if I added 1500 PPM worth of straight nutrients from a nutrient bottle into pure water, it would kill the plants overnight at 1500 PPM.
So there's no ultimate "right" PPM, because it depends a lot on "what" is actually making up that PPM.
I've always used PPM meters to measure the difference over time, with my particular plant and setup. So if the water goes in at 600 PPM and plants get burned I know I need to use less nutrients next time, which means it should be less than 600 PPM next time. In hydro, it can be used to tell if the nutrient levels are going up or down in the reservoir each day, so you know whether to add more nutrients or just plain water to maintain the PPM.
But in my experience it doesn't seem very helpful to compare absolute PPM numbers with other growers, because it's like comparing apples to oranges a lot of the time (with all the different types of water and nutrients).