What's new
GrowWeedEasy.com
You're browsing as a guest. Sign up to join the conversation, share your grows, and get help from thousands of fellow growers — it's free and takes less than a minute.

SOIL Starting my second battle soon. Questions + tips? advice?

Yuupp. I was literally thinking exactly this as I logged on right now.

I watered again now, since it already dried up from last watering. A bit earlier than usual, but I noticed exactly what you're saying - gravity simply pulls the water towards the center.

Did my best to somehow adjust the pants and properly water the fat, we'll see what happens next.

Definitely ordering a proper cloth pot from Amazon for my next plant. The only reason why I didn't do it for this one was that I needed to start the grow, and could not afford to wait 2-3 more weeks. And IMO the pants are still better than the normal plastic pots. I could have also made them better and more evenly distributed. But here we are.
 
You came at this with a modicum of vanity realhuuuman420. I don't care how Brazilian you are, with hips and an ass like that, your waist is not that narrow. You put 5 gallons of soil in a 10 gallon ass and had to cinch up the belt to make for the deepest roots.
Next time, maybe try a cummerbund.
 
Would appreciate if somebody looked at this with a fresh set of eyes. I've been looking for too long and honestly don't know what to think anymore.

It seems like the damage has progressed slightly on the leaves already affected, and the ones that had maybe slightly affected tips now have ever so slightly more affected tips.

Am I just imagining things? Maybe I'm just looking at the damaged stuff, like when your tooth hurts and your tongue just won't stop touching it, making the whole thing seem worse than it is? From the previous grow experience, I know that damaged leaves like this will continue to die off. But of course I still tend to think catastrophically.

Anyway, here's fresh porn. The damn thing is bigger than it was two days ago, I know that autos do stretch a fair bit during early flower stages, but I thought we're past that. Or am I imagining that as well? ...

Environment seems still fine. Humidity dropped a lil bit, so I have to have the humidifier on now, but that helps, so that's a non issue. Measured pH of runoff two days ago, it was a good 6.2-6.3ish. Water ph is also like that. Temps always stable between 23-25C.

I'm just overthinking it again, right?

​
 

Attachments

  • Upd12 (6).jpg
    Upd12 (6).jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 3
  • Upd12 (1).jpg
    Upd12 (1).jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 3
  • Upd12 (3).jpg
    Upd12 (3).jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 3
  • Upd12 (2).jpg
    Upd12 (2).jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 4
  • Upd12 (4).jpg
    Upd12 (4).jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 3
  • Upd12 (8).jpg
    Upd12 (8).jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 3
  • Upd12 (7).jpg
    Upd12 (7).jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 4
  • Upd12 (5).jpg
    Upd12 (5).jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 3
Those brown spots are dead and dying tissue. The tissue is dead and dying from the issues you have been having. It is ugly but there is nothing you can do about it. What is dead stays dead, browns, crisps, and will create holes in your leaves.
You are well into flowering which means there is a chance your major fan leaves will start yellowing and die off. If your soil has flushed out the veg nutes, there is a better chance your fans will yellow and die. Concentrate on keeping your pH good and using only flowering nutrients.

​
 
Looking at them now I can see you have continued to lose pigment, quite a bit, and some classic signs of calmag deficiency also showing especially on the lower leaves. Calmag would have checked both issues.

It may pay to use some with your bloom nutes but dont add it past about week four after the flip. Half strength at most.
 
I can't believe I'm going here... even I think it's too early for flowering deficiencies. With the soil cooling off, any pH buffers, cal-mag, and nitrogen washing out, maybe getting a little N in will still be beneficial?
 
Here's what I would do.

Do a half half mix of both bloom and grow base with whatever the recommended amount of cal/mag the manufacturer suggests. The additional N in grow should boost the amount of N you're putting in the soil so that your plant isn't constantly throttling between fed and starved. That should take care of the color loss along with helping in building flower structure. The cal/mag should take care of the yellowing/holes/crisping that is currently happening. The P and K boost should help throughout flower also.

What I'm seeing is deficiency through relying on soil nutrition rather than feeding in addition to. Watering is also an issue but it seems like you've gotten better at that part. I would water the soil in the waist and water the fatter lower portion so that it soaks through the cloth. If you really want to make it easy and be sure that all the media is getting wet you can bottom water it by mixing up a feed solution and immersing the pants into the bucket until you see water coming out the top of the media.

When I have sprouts in solo cups I feed them this way. Makes it easy to make sure all the media gets wet and because sprouts only need to be watered once or twice before they get transplanted into gallon cans it isn't a big deal. A little more work but it makes a big difference in plant development.

Unless you're growing a plant in a 15 or 20 gal bag with highly fortified media and a highly active microbial community at minimum I don't see how your soil can have enough food to get your through flower.
 
The calmag you add if in liquid form will likely be nitrate based which it will draw N from but check that, that's why you don't want to be adding it too far into flower, too much N.
 
I suppose the below simply confirms what you are all saying anyway - CalMag deficiency, started feeding too late, and ofc those watering issues I pointed out as well.

Still wanted to detail this in case there's something terribly wrong with the feeding - especially the CalMag part. Should I give a bit more, say 1.2 ml / L, even if BioBizz says max 0.8ml, to compensate for the lack?

I have been giving it CalMag starting with my first feeding, but clearly not enough. I started under half of the recommended dosage according to the BIoBizz chart, and steadily increasing to 100%- https://www.biobizz.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Nutrient-Schedule-EN-2024.pdf

27th of Oct: BioGrow (0.5ml), BioBloom (1ml), TopMax (0.5ml), CalMag (0.3ml)
31st of Oct - Bloom (2ml), Grow (1ml), Max (0.5ml), CalMag (0.4ml)
2nd of Nov - Bloom (3ml), Grow (1ml), Max (1.5ml), CalMag (0.4ml)

Today will be the 4th feeding, I planned to up the dosage all the way up to 100% of recommended, meaning BioBloom up to 4ml, and CalMag of 0.8ml per liter of water. BioBizz recommends using BioGrow throughout the entire grow (starting at around when soil starts to cool down), at 1ml per liter of water going in.

And something that keeps bugging me - this needs to be a lesson for my next grow. So, in retrospect, should I have started feeding as soon as I noticed the slight pigment loss? If yes, then this would be a clear and hard to miss sign, and next time I will be able to understand what the plant is trying to tell me.
 
I start calmag about 4 weeks into veg at half strength growing in coco or as soon as I see pigment loss as we did with yours.

I typically don't start bloom nutes until I see flowers, so we'll after the stretch, but sometimes I start early depending on the colour of my leaves looking at the plant from bottom to top. You can often see how much N is present in the plant and at what level it's packing it into the leaves.

Look closely at your leaf tips for browning off or a folding in of the leaf outer.indicating the start of nute burn. Try to keep your nutes balanced, not more of anything. You can't make up fior something that wasn't there earlier when it needed it nor can you remove something it didn't need later so small adjustments to correct problems.
 
All what I have grown outdoors was regular seed.

Indoors a mix of regular and fem and only a four autos to date.
 
Bluey ... realhuuuman420 is growing auto. Your recommendations for when to start calmag and bloom nutes are for fem.
I'm going to respectfully challenge or question what you said based on me growing autos in coco with the brand nutrients I use. I've been harvesting at 10-11 weeks. Lady bits can show at 3 weeks. At 4 weeks I add half bloom nutes to the full veg I've been giving since the 'sprout phase' was over. Next watering is half veg to full bloom. Full bloom from then on. From sprout to harvest, if I use nutrients, I use calmag.
So much respect.
 
Last edited:
My recommendations were for photos of course. I missed the bit about autos.l so my nute tomongs don't apply
 
Beginning of week 7 :O looks like 1-2 weeks until harvest!
 

Attachments

  • photo177412.jpg
    photo177412.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 2
  • photo177413.jpg
    photo177413.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 3
  • photo177414.jpg
    photo177414.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 4
  • photo177415.jpg
    photo177415.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 2
  • photo177416.jpg
    photo177416.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 2
  • photo177417.jpg
    photo177417.jpg
    1,004.9 KB · Views: 3
  • photo177418.jpg
    photo177418.jpg
    984.2 KB · Views: 3
  • photo177419.jpg
    photo177419.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 3
So very close! Very excited for harvest. Hopefully will be ready by this weekend, but don't mind keeping it for as long as it needs. And then the real battle of drying and curing starts!
 

Attachments

  • photo177655.jpg
    photo177655.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 2
  • photo177656.jpg
    photo177656.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 2
  • photo177657.jpg
    photo177657.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 4
  • photo177658.jpg
    photo177658.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 4
  • photo177659.jpg
    photo177659.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 3
Back
Top