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Plant Training

@Mr.furley can you talk about the individual screens you have in those pics? That is a pretty cool innovation. So you give each plant its own "SCROG"? And re-tie to it as they grow? Looks like you can move each plant individually and still have easy anchor points. Am I seeing what I think I see?
 
billyboy the metal cubes
AmazonBasics 4 Cube Grid Wire Storage Shelves, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0735CKD6R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HAFzDb95PPG3S
can be found at thrift stores and garage sales for cheap I use them for everthing. On a five gallon bucket to water, over saucers, on tubes, and yes you can punch holes in your fabric pots, zip tie them to the bottom and use it for a Anchor Point for a wide range of training.

I have got plant training to a point that I just tie them off to the side of the pot and haven't use one like a scrog for a long bit, if you keep a eye out you will see them in most of my pictures.

Farmall to achieve on the level is a great accomplishment and can up your game when applied to the whole tent, this is just training off the pot with no net.
20181120_171908.jpg

thanks guys and hope this helps.
 
Hey Mr.furley, this is awesome stuff...im growing my first grow using LST. All is going great so far. My question is this..Will i get much more bud production if i top it as well? Does this just make the canopy wider/larger? And the bending till it breaks thing just freaks me out lol. thanks hg
 
homegrown.
I have run two different strains, both had one plant that was topped and a clone(s) of that plant that was just LST in a spiral, the Tahoe OG in this thread is one of them, yield was 144 grams and it's mother that was topped and trained yield 147 grams. The other grow was the same way except the first plant was spiraled, the next two were a manifold , and the Forth was topped and trained per this tutorial, all yielding within 4 grams of each other. There is no benefit in my opinion to which way to train only ease of training and preference. Topping is less work by just chipping then all the bending in straight Lst or constant plant manipulation of manifolding, one thing is for sure you will get better bud products from one the three vs. A untrained plant.
Suppercrpping is an invaluable tool, use it.
 
.......and it is important to remember that picking the proper Training Method for the pheno expression your plant is showing is invaluable.
 
Thanks Mr.furley, i'll give suppercropping a try next round. And what is Training method for the pheno expression your plant is showing??? Did i miss something in GWE?? thanks again homegrown
 
When grown out plants from clones you get the idea of what the phenotype is going to be like in your environment, you can pick the best Training Method for how that plant grows to maximize yield, time, and space.
Gwe doesn't have a lot on Phenotype/genotype but I've seen it mentioned.
This is just a copy paste, that a biologist would explain it best.

phenotypes. (1) The physical appearance or biochemical characteristic of an organism as a result of the interaction of its genotype and the environment. (2) The expression of a particular trait, for example, skin color, height, behavior, etc., according to the individual's genetic makeup and environment.
 
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Need some advice. Got two plants that are growing into the light. Thinking they will have to be topped. 3 weeks into flower. Cant bend them over because 2 other plants in the tent. Will be too crowded. Even after topping seems like they will be growing into each other. Not sure what to do. Was thinking to try and make clones with the tops but lacking room in tent. Plant this young probably not very potent yet. Worth trying to blaze the cuttings or just make some edibles from the trim/flower?
 
StickFigureLover
Do you have a link and some pictures? How big is your tent? How close are they to the light? Way back in the day I would dry all my cuttings and leaf in the oven and smoke it, now I know a lot more about cannabis and the body. You can eat raw leaf as a anti-inflammatory, any budlets Young or old can be air dried and smoked.
 
Thanks for answering m Tent is 4 x 4 x 6. Got 4 plants in there. 2 are bushy. 2 are looking like christmas trees. Did not do any training on them. Will try to load some photos in one of my posts. Thinking i will have to trim some of the lower branches because they are starting to grow into each other and into the tent sides :-/ not sure what i will do with them after trimming though. Really hesitant to cut them but not sure what other options there are .as far as use been taking some leafs off the male plants. Tried to crush them up once in this stone mortar and pestle. Lately been putting them in the oven in a covered dish at 125 celcius for at least 20 or 30 mins. Dries them a bit. After this they are easy to crumble by hand. After crumbling mix in some coconut oil, recover the dish with foil, and back in the oven for at least another 30 mins at 125. This is what I plan to do with the male plant that has keeled over. Would be awesome to sample some budlets. They are all mostly small and clear pistils but a few of the lower stem ones are getting a few red hairs. Any suggestion on how long to dry them? Do you think budlets like this 3 weeks into flower would have any potency? Thanks again for the advice. I used to smoke for many years. Prefer vaping these days but need to get another unit.
 
I have been seeing a lot of questions on defoliating plant during flower, when? Why? And How much? So I thought I'd snap a couple of pictures.

Here is two different strains both put in Flowering on 11/5. The one in the back is Mr.Furleys Tahoe OG, I have grown a clone from this plant three times and know the Phenotype, it is a strong growing plant that does not "get bushy" so I will not remove much leaf. This plant will only get some plucking at the 3 to 4 weeks Mark. The plant in the front is a New Phenotype of Bruce Banner and is are subject. This picture is 7 day after the 12/12 flip on 11/12.
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In the picture you can not see the soil/perlite through the canopy on the Bruce Banner and you can on the Tahoe OG, this is a big indicator that it's time, along with a lot of leaf laying on top of each other, Leaf sweating and excessive water uptake, transpiring and raising humidity.
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I have removed 80% of the medium to Big sized Leaf in the middle, and have selectively taken 20% of the big leaf on the outside, pulled all the ties down to flatten out the plant. You can see the pile of leaves on the tray from the one plant.

here is were you get the middle of the plant to bulk up by open it up the air flow and light penetration, by pulling the outsides down I'm giving the center a chance to catch up in the stretch.

Here is the same plants 4 days later, i have done nothing but water/feed and wait. Can you see the medium?

Click image for larger version Name: 20191117_004820.jpg Views: 0 Size: 2.18 MB ID: 350233

see you on the 3 to 4 weeks Mark for the next plucking.
 
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Thanks Mr.furley i am saving this to my favorites for my next grow. I tried to to follow a picture of lst in Nebula's LST training tutorial where someone sprialed their plant. By the way i am not sure where your from but at least 11 Canadian colleges and universities offer growing Cannabis courses! I am thinking you should be a professor!
 
That is very nice of you to say SmashGuitar I really enjoy growing cannabis and sharing my techniques. I would love to be more involved with the teaching, that is why I'm here! The GWE site give me a new prospect on growing cannabis that I hadn't done in years past and after being open to the idea of a cannabis forum I figured it was a good way give back for free. I am your southern neighbor living in a medical state surrounded by recreational state and providence's.
 
Hey Mr.furley great thread and approach. I always enjoy the initial veg and initial spiral training process the most. Your process, especially the part where you remove a leaf or two, gave me a lot of good tips.

I have a maybe unrelated question but what do you use to water? I enjoy the process of hand watering my plants but struggling with being able to water the two back plants in a 4x4 or even a single plant if it has a lot of plant toes everywhere or under a lot of tension from various bends. Would like to avoid a more automated system with lines to each pot with a sprayer nozzle on timer.
 
ocgreen
I hand water my pots with a small 1/2 gallon plastic watering pale, I water my pots in thirds and move plants around to reach all sides. I do have a Reservoir and pump system with lines for backup and vacation that has only been used it a handful of time and recently I have move out of tent life so things are changing in my world and I am making some adjustments this season but at present I'm still moving plants to reach spots, LOL!
Tent growing is a challenge to water and what I did was move to a Three plant maximum at a time for flower in a dedicated tent, this would allow me to remove one plant and access the other two without much work. The plants can be trained to fill the space for the missing plant and you're trading inconvenience for efficacy.
Some can't grow perpetually and run start to finish in the same tent, at this point I would remove plants and each pot was watered out of the tent also allowing me to trim, train, rotate and replace, this is a good method except for when you have a floppy plant and you're bumping them around alot.
They make some great watering rings that stay in the pot and can be access through a hose, some peeps have use surgical tubing or plastic garden hose with a funnel to reach spots.
Cleaning the vegetation and watering in between branches is a reality of tight training when you have height restrictions.

I appreciate the positive feedback and glad you enjoyed the thread.
 
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