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HELP! New grower, need some help.

Going for broke it is, I'll just use my city water and pH it with my regular nutrients. We'll see what happens, like I said, this is more of a learning experience than it is looking for a yield. Lol
 
billyboy can you explain to me about pH and how it relates to things going on in the grow? I understand incorrect pH creates lockout and some other crazy things but what is the advantage of a lower pH as opposed to a say a 6.8 pH?
 
Tofasgt There are others with a deeper science background who may be able to reply in detail but from my perspective the larger pot (and in particular one with soil rather than coco) acts as a buffer to sudden pH swings. If the pot is a particular pH it takes more effort to shift the pH within the pot. Think of it like a heat sink. Some pH up/down solutions will state they are buffered and when you use fresh coco you are supposed to buffer it (if it didn’t come buffered).

With regards to why pH is important it is easiest to think about it as each mineral becoming bioavailable to the plant in different pH ranges. I think one of the other replies here mentioned that there is a chart on GWE that shows the pH range for each type of mineral. It is for this reason that it is also recommended you don’t get the pH exactly the same each time you water - let it wander up and down a bit because not all minerals are bioavailable to the plant at the same pH.

And a last suggestion - make sure you calibrate your pH pen periodically because it will slip out of whack. I learned that one the hard way.
 
DeadlyFruit that makes pretty good sense to me. Especially letting the pH wonder every watering. And I have 2 pH pens and I check with both to make sure they're in the same ballpark, if one shows a pH a couple away from the other I calibrate both pens.
 
Gingerbeard well I don't know how to answer that other than dirt off the farm. Lol
I figured the happy frog with it nutrients would be better than that old rock and twig dirt off the farm. Lol
 
It's a farm. What is otherwise farmed in the dirt that is still in the area you call 'the farm,' when the dirt not domesticated in a plastic pot and forced to grow weed?
 
Are you talking about the CIA's 'farm:?' Don't be going messing around with government soil. It has nanobots and tracking chips that eat holes in your shorts.
 
If your mountain is a bountiful mountain, why not use it's soil? I would have to travel a hundred miles from my home to find a place where I could find actual soil. It's called urban sprawl. Everything is manicured dirt or concrete.
 
Lol, I live in the mountains and everywhere you turn is free soil around here. And to answer your question I just figured I'd use soil that everyone is commonly using that way when issue's (such as these) come about it would be much easier for someone to help identify the problem. Whereas using soil that I have no clue what nutrients it's providing the plants.
 
I did read the article and answered several of my questions, and now that I've read it and looked at the chart real well it all makes really good sense to me. Really appreciate the help that everyone here has given me.
 
Gingerbeard billyboy DeadlyFruit have done nothing except use tap water pH'd at 6.7 with a 1/2 tablespoon of molasses and they have taken off over the past 3 days and look healthier than they ever have.
 

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