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Hydroponic Growers Group!

I thought about posting this on one of my journals but this is probably as good a place as any to post it. Campesino and I have talked about this before and IslandColas has eluded to it in at least one post; As far as growing in hydroponics is concerned, I am a bit unorthodox to say the least, my techniques work for me because I have an understanding of the conditions I have created in my reservoir, it is certainly not the easy, efficient , or recommended way, for a grower that is new to idea of sustaining life in an aqueous environment.

My preference for warmer water comes from my love of aquatics and my experience over the last decade managing a 175 gallon aquarium. I have run it as a fresh water tank as well well as a salt water tank, unfortunately shortly after I started growing I had to shut down the aquarium do to excess power consumption. I am currently saving money to upgrade my household electrical so I can run both simultaneously, but for now my tank sits empty. Anyways.....It should come as no surprise that I treat my reservoirs the same way I treated my aquarium.....I only do partial water changes on a weekly basis........I do this in part because I use beneficial bacteria in my reservoir and IMO and experience, a complete water change would only serve to rob my system of the colony I am trying to build. I build my colony using HydroGuard, Orca, and SLF-100. Most are familiar with HydroGuard from the GWE tutorials. Orca is the hydroponic equivalent of Great White, produced by the same manufacturer. SLF-100 is an enzyme based root innoculent that serves to clear away dead and decaying root particles that would normally attract competing bacterial strains. I normally plan for 2 full reservoir changes in any given grow...the 1st is after transition, so I can reset the nutrient ratios in the reservoir for flowering....the 2nd is when I finalize the leaching period. I say finalize because I lower my EC by .2, at what I consider to be milestone stages during flower, until I reach an EC of 1.0 or 500 PPM, at which point I dip the roots in a solution of 22 mls. of FloraKleen per 5 gallons of water for 10 minutes and then return them to a reservoir of tap water, HydroGuard, and Orca. The final period of leaching lasts for 7 days and I add my beneficial's during this period because I need a healthy root system to assist in water uptake right up until I cut the plants down.

It is my sincere hope that I can contribute to this community in a way that benefits others in the same way that it has benefited me, while understanding that I do things in an unconventional way that may not be easily replicated by others.
 
Absolutely fabulous. Thanks so much for sharing this. I am always intrigued by “differences”; in part, because they challenge me to develop a more sophisticated understanding of the important concepts involved.
 
I thought about posting this on one of my journals but this is probably as good a place as any to post it. Campesino and I have talked about this before and IslandColas has eluded to it in at least one post; As far as growing in hydroponics is concerned, I am a bit unorthodox to say the least, my techniques work for me because I have an understanding of the conditions I have created in my reservoir, it is certainly not the easy, efficient , or recommended way, for a grower that is new to idea of sustaining life in an aqueous environment.

My preference for warmer water comes from my love of aquatics and my experience over the last decade managing a 175 gallon aquarium. I have run it as a fresh water tank as well well as a salt water tank, unfortunately shortly after I started growing I had to shut down the aquarium do to excess power consumption. I am currently saving money to upgrade my household electrical so I can run both simultaneously, but for now my tank sits empty. Anyways.....It should come as no surprise that I treat my reservoirs the same way I treated my aquarium.....I only do partial water changes on a weekly basis........I do this in part because I use beneficial bacteria in my reservoir and IMO and experience, a complete water change would only serve to rob my system of the colony I am trying to build. I build my colony using HydroGuard, Orca, and SLF-100. Most are familiar with HydroGuard from the GWE tutorials. Orca is the hydroponic equivalent of Great White, produced by the same manufacturer. SLF-100 is an enzyme based root innoculent that serves to clear away dead and decaying root particles that would normally attract competing bacterial strains. I normally plan for 2 full reservoir changes in any given grow...the 1st is after transition, so I can reset the nutrient ratios in the reservoir for flowering....the 2nd is when I finalize the leaching period. I say finalize because I lower my EC by .2, at what I consider to be milestone stages during flower, until I reach an EC of 1.0 or 500 PPM, at which point I dip the roots in a solution of 22 mls. of FloraKleen per 5 gallons of water for 10 minutes and then return them to a reservoir of tap water, HydroGuard, and Orca. The final period of leaching lasts for 7 days and I add my beneficial's during this period because I need a healthy root system to assist in water uptake right up until I cut the plants down.

It is my sincere hope that I can contribute to this community in a way that benefits others in the same way that it has benefited me, while understanding that I do things in an unconventional way that may not be easily replicated by others.

Absolutely love having you as part of the community Obi-Wan your knowledge is irreplaceable:)
 
Wow! What a lot of info. Well I am just beginning in hydro. My first attempt. I have a cabinet with a cloner down below and flower up top. It is DWC. How do I transplant from the 2 inch net cups down below to the 3.75 inch net cups up top? The roots will be very long. Will they get damaged or just grow back through the pellets and the cup? Thanks fellas.
 
Nice Thread. I got some questions coming. I am trying to get some good pics off my plants. I grow in hydro under LED. This thread has some pics of my setup and plants. I am nearing harvest and don't want to jump the gun. 1st time grower. Just trying get some white light setup so its not all purply.
 
Here are some photos. When looking through the scope pretty much all trichomes still mostly clear. Will heat and LED light effect Trichomes. I did a poor job at keeping track of this but I believe I am at about day 46 of flowering on the tangerine Dream, which has estimate of 55-65 day harvest.

Edit: Second Picture is actually critical purple not tangerine dream. Those trichomes also clear, although pretty haired up.
 

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Is "day 46", 46 days of 12/12 lighting or 46 days with pistils. If you are trying to go by breeder estimates it is always better to count the flowering period as the days since first pistils rather than the flip to 12/12.
I'd say you have 2-3 more weeks and that should give them time to turn cloudy and plump
 
Thanks, this would be day 46 with pistils. Should of said these are auto flower and have been on 18-6 throughout the grow.
 
Yeah, I actually started thinking they might be Autos... But I figured I'd run with your first sentence... "Here are some photos"! LMAO
 
haha photos... and photos... same word, different meaning!

You do look like you have some heat stress there and light definitely does degrade THC. Maybe try to cool it down just a bit for the final two weeks and make sure your LED isn't too close/burning the top. Get one of the loupes or scopes in the GWE tutorials. Can really see the color changes on the trichomes with those for a more accurate decision. What type of effect are you looking for/ are the strains known for?

I can already tell this thread is going to eat up hours upon hours of my future time... yea soilless!
 
wheatgrass There is no easy way to transplant from a 2” net cup to a larger one. I suggest buying the 2” neoprene collars and cutting out the bottom of your 2” net cups. The collars will support your cuttings and removing the bottom of your net cup will allow you to remove them freely for transplant into the 3.75 in cups. I like to let my clone grow at least 4-5” of roots so I can run the roots through the bottom of the net pot. This way they start their journey with their feet in the water.
 
Thanks Obi-Wan. I do have collars on the way. These are from seed. 3rd set of leaves just starting and some roots are 5-6" long. The idea of cutting out the bottoms sounds excellent. I will definitely do that.
 
wheatgrass for seed starting this is a little hack I came up with using the collars in the cloner. Just cut out the inside of the collar and a rapid rooter will fit snuggly inside it.
 

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Yeah I can't get my light any higher unfortunately. The bud is pretty much touching it. I can attest these LED's do not throw off a ton of heat,lol. I also have an ac in the room with my box, so as I type this sitting the room it 56 and I am shivering! Looking for mainly peaked out THC low cBD and daytime type use which these strains are supposed to be.
 
I don’t use a net cup until I place them in the full sized grow buckets. Just makes for easier and less evasive transplants
 
Great! Next round i am going to go with no cup. If you had a 3.75" collar could you go no net cup again? Or does the plant need the support of the cup? I am in a reservoir. About 26 gallons gets the water to about 2-3 inches below the cups. 600W LED. Thanks for your help!
 
have you tried pulling them down with string or a net? try to get the colas more horizontal, could get you some space
 
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