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Obi-Wan

Obi-Wan

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  • S
    Hi Obi-Wan! A while back you gave me some great advice regarding nutes and I wondered if I could ask a few more questions (can't thank you enough for your help btw). Like you, my tap EC is 0.3 and the water is fairly rich in trace minerals. I'm going to use the Dyna-Gro line but I wanted to ask you how you work in the Pro-Tekt and the Mag-Pro with the Grow/Bloom. More specifically, I wondered if the EC guidelines you gave me (i.e., work up to 1.4 EC in veg) include the Pro-Tekt and the Mag-Pro. Given that our tap EC is the same, could you provide some general tsp recommendations for these products? Or just a place to start so that I don't nute burn the plant. thanks!!!!
    Obi-Wan
    Obi-Wan
    5 gallons of water
    1.5 tsp Protekt
    3tsp Bloom
    3tsp MagPro

    Be sure to add the Protekt 1st and mix the water well before adding the other 2 ingredients
    S
    sweeper91
    Thank you sir!!!
    S
    sweeper91
    Hi again Obi-Wan, I had another question (hope you don't mind): my plants appear to be suffering from a mag deficiency. I'm using Dyna-Gro's Grow product and I have their mag supplement, but I noticed that it doesn't contain calcium...is there enough calcium in the Grow, which is why they don't make a Cal-Mag supplement? I also have CaliMagic, but I see that some people advise not mixing nute lines. Thanks!
    S
    Hi Obi-Wan, I've been having a persistent problem with my grows and I wondered if you could offer some advice. Basically, the leaves on my plants start curling/twisting and showing discoloration, usually a pale color overall or yellow between the veins. I've checked everything -- pH is in balance, nutes at good levels, temperature and humidity in range. For the longest time I thought it was a virus because of the leaf discoloration and overall sickly appearance, but now I'm not so sure. I've tried supplementing with CalMag before to rule out a magnesium deficiency, but that didn't seem to make a difference. Any thoughts? I attached some photos showing how the seedlings starting twisting early on. Then later, there is more twisting and curling of new growth, leaf discoloration, and a general sickly appearance. Thanks in advance!
    D
    Hi, I am doing my first,(trying to do it right) grow. I have 3 beautiful plants that I started from feminized seeds. I already had a small plant growing from a hermie. I have all 4 of them under the light. My gut is telling me that I should get that hermie outa there, cause it will pollinate the others. Am I right in that thinking?
    Obi-Wan
    Obi-Wan
    Yes, remove the hermie ASAP.
    L
    Hi Obi, I just updated my posted with some pics and was wondering if you take a look at me seedlings. I’m currently dosing 4ml cal mag (4 gallons of ro water). Is this enough. Would really appreciate your help.

    thanks!
    Obi-Wan
    Obi-Wan
    Are you also using a base nutrient? With RO water your safe to add 2ml per gallon of the cal mag, but your seedlings need a base nutrient that includes all of the micro nutrients.
    S
    Hi Obi-Wan FTG here with some basic questions: How often do you change out the reservoir and top off? When you top off, do you use full-strength nutes? I'm just trying to get a routine down where I'm regularly monitoring the pH and ppm to avoid any plant issues. At the same time, I'd like to change out the reservoir as little as possible for the sake of convenience. I'm running the GH flora trio.
    I've read positive things about the Lucas formula, with some people saying they only change their reservoir 2-3 times over the course of the whole grow! I'd love to have that kind of setup, but I'm just intimidated because I don't know the best ppm ranges for my plants; most of the growers I see using the LF have RO water (I'm using tap and don't know the composition)
    Obi-Wan
    Obi-Wan
    As a first time grower you should really get a feel for growing in general and growing in dwc before you try extending the reservoir changes. If you want to do dwc the right way you need a good pH pen and EC/ppm meter. I use Blue Lab, they’re pricey upfront but I’ve never had to replace them. Two separate meters, one for pH and one for EC/ppm. I prefer to speak in EC as it’s a universal measurement of dissolved solids whereas ppm can get confusing based on which conversion factor a grower is using.

    With that said I only change my reservoir in Veg if I have root issues which hasn’t happened in quite some time. If I’m running from seed I start them at .5 EC, clones are started at .8. I read my plants to determine when I need to increase nutrient levels. I like to Veg for a minimum of 4 weeks but normally 6 weeks in my perpetual grow. Full strength nutrients for me is 1.4 EC in Veg. I always top off my buckets to build up to 1.4 EC, it’s my target, again starting at .5-.8 when they are smaller, and elevating it as they grow, larger plants need more nutrients. Try not to think of top offs in an either or sense....sometimes you will need to add water only, and sometimes you will need to add nutrients. The target EC is what is most important....if the target EC is 1.4 and your reservoir is 1.2, you need to feed slightly higher than 1.4 to achieve the 1.4 your looking for. The same is true if your reservoir EC is 1.6, you’ll need to feed at slightly below 1.4 to hit your target. I only add water only when the EC rises by more than .2 but my water level has gone down. In flower I run a Veg nutrient reservoir for the 1st two weeks at 1.4 EC. I then do a full reservoir change and switch to flower nutrients. I run this reservoir for 3-4 weeks maintaining an EC of 1.8. I then flush the whole system and restart at 1.8 EC and gradually drop my EC by .2 each week until I reach .8 again depending on the total flowering time, I won’t completely change the reservoir again until I flush which only lasts 3-5 days.

    I started with the Flora Trio and I’ve run the Lucas formula before......I was constantly running into issues trying to grow my way with the Flora trio even with the Lucas formula, it was just a PITA!! I switched to Dyna-Gro’s nutrient line and I’ve never looked back. Specifically, I use Pro-TeKt, Grow, Bloom, and Mag-Pro. I also use Hydro-Guard and Orca with each full reservoir change, but only with a FULL reservoir change.

    I check my pH every day but I only adjust it when it moves out of range. I’ll adjust it if I see 6.8, but if I see 6.6, I’ll give it another day to see what it does...same goes for the lower end of the pH scale...5.3 doesn’t worry me much but if it drops to 5.1 the next day I’ll bump it back to 6.0. Let the pH range up and down as it will, every reservoir is different and you’ll hit a groove where you’re consistently bumping it up or down. Too many growers put way too much emphasis on trying to keep the pH in the perfect range, as long as it’s close you’ll be fine. The fewer adjustments the better IMO.

    I use tap water myself, RO is far too wasteful for my taste and the ROI is far to small. As long as your comfortable drinking your tap water, your plants will be fine. I don’t subtract my tap EC from my target EC, so when I say 1.4 EC, it includes the .3 EC my tap registers before I add nutrients.

    I hope this gives you a good starting point, and I apologize if I dump too much info on you at once. Let me know if I need to clarify anything for you.
    S
    sweeper91
    this is amazing...i can't thank you enough. i've been intimidated by so many aspects of this hobby and you just clarified the most difficult part for me! trying to understand the thousand different recommendations that every grower seemed to have wrt nutes was overwhelming
    i have the bluelab pens you recommended and my tap water is also .3 EC, so I will definitely follow your guidelines for my next grow! hope you don't mind if i have more questions...
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