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Hydroponic Growers Group!
- Thread starter IslandColas
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IslandColas
New member
Post a spread on your system, your nutrients, and your problems and I’m sure everyone here could lend a hand
hate to see another grower struggling!!
IslandColas
New member
Agreed! seems a little spendy especially for someone with more than 20 gallons of nutrients.
Campesino
Banned
Am I really over-estimating the cost of buying and running a chiller?
I ask sincerely... I don't really know... How much do they cost to run?
Say, for hypothetical grower with 20 gallon Res dealing with Res temps at say 75F
The electrolysis would be $300, but then basically free to run (tiny draw)
What would chilling costs be? buying the chiller and then cost per month to run?
I ask sincerely... I don't really know... How much do they cost to run?
Say, for hypothetical grower with 20 gallon Res dealing with Res temps at say 75F
The electrolysis would be $300, but then basically free to run (tiny draw)
What would chilling costs be? buying the chiller and then cost per month to run?
IslandColas
New member
Water temperature does not only limit how easily the water can absorb O2 it also limits the maximum levels of O2 your reservoir can sustain in turn stunting or limiting the potential growth of your plants. You may be able to keep Dissolved Oxygen (DO) levels high enough to fend of Pythium but you’re limiting you maximum DO levels and in turn limiting the maximum supply of oxygen to your crop. Growth is only effected once water temps drop below 63 degrees Fahrenheit, so if you hold 65-68 you’re not only making it easy to fend off the root problems but you’re making it easier for your plants to grow and uptake oxygen which is key in plant growth.
here are some charts on maximum DO levels as well as a chart that shows if you live higher than sea level your DO threshold lowers as well. So if you live high, and run warm temps you’re completely stunting yourself.
And the next one is based on a water temp of 4 degrees Celsius (waters optimal DO water temperature)
A chiller may be a bit more expensive to run but it’s half what it would cost me to buy this product for my reservoir due to the fact that even my small tent has a 40 gallon reservoir. (I would require 2) unless you get a DO sensor you can’t tell if that machine is even keeping you at your threshold or 100% saturation. A chiller not only will keep your water cooler inhibiting bacteria but also allow you to hold a higher DO threshold at 100% saturation. So you get peace of mind and improved oxygen absorption into your root systems with the chiller. Any professional hydroponic grower will tell you 65-68 is the sweet spot...
graphs sourced from:
https://www.fondriest.com/environmen...solved-oxygen/
its a great read as well! Looking for graphs and I’m all of a sudden nerding out on stratification😂
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Campesino
Banned
Excellent answer IslandColas
Some more specific numbers and food for thought:
It is possible to supersaturate water with oxygen, which brings it beyond "fully oxygenated". That is the point of electrolysis. It certainly seems that you could maintain 8+ PPM of DO at 75F with it.
But yes, you would have to trust the device or invest considerably to verify.
It would make me nervous - I'm talking about it, not exactly recommending it
Some more specific numbers and food for thought:
http://www.just4growers.com/stream/...truth-on-dissolved-oxygen-in-hydroponics.aspx
It is possible to supersaturate water with oxygen, which brings it beyond "fully oxygenated". That is the point of electrolysis. It certainly seems that you could maintain 8+ PPM of DO at 75F with it.
But yes, you would have to trust the device or invest considerably to verify.
It would make me nervous - I'm talking about it, not exactly recommending it
IslandColas
New member
Exactly! I’m very interested in seeing it work for someone. Maybe one day I’ll test one on my outdoor system and post a thread on its effectiveness vs air stones.
Obi-Wan
New member
Using a water chiller, air stones, or an o2 emitter the goal is the same, increase DO. The temperature of the solution plays no other role other than to dictate the saturation point. Bacterial growth would not be inhibited until the water temperature was 3.9 C or 39F, and even at that temperature it is only slowed not stopped. It really is all about oxygen in the root zone. 7-8 ppm is all that is required and can easily be achieved with an adequately sized pump and airstones at temperatures of 70-75 F. I run slightly warmer and use a pump designed for 8 buckets in a 6 bucket system and my plant growth is vigorous.
Dr.Moggs
New member
Very voice words. @Obi-Wan
Not that I except anything other than just that from an old Jedi!
I am one of those growers who had started an more advanced grow than what would fit a beginner. However, this have made me dedicate myself a lot to the plants. Maby it's not an optimal way to start, I would recommend other begginers to start easier but Oooh have i learnt a lot!
I want to take my first grow to goal and than start the next one where I can avoid doing same mistakes that I have done now.
Quote:
"And these blast points, too accurate for sandpepole. Only imperial stormtroopers are so precise"
"And these exact values, to accurate for an uninteressted grower. Only a dedicated grower could be so precise."
Thanks for being here Obi !
Not that I except anything other than just that from an old Jedi!
I am one of those growers who had started an more advanced grow than what would fit a beginner. However, this have made me dedicate myself a lot to the plants. Maby it's not an optimal way to start, I would recommend other begginers to start easier but Oooh have i learnt a lot!
I want to take my first grow to goal and than start the next one where I can avoid doing same mistakes that I have done now.
Quote:
"And these blast points, too accurate for sandpepole. Only imperial stormtroopers are so precise"
"And these exact values, to accurate for an uninteressted grower. Only a dedicated grower could be so precise."
Thanks for being here Obi !
Campesino
Banned
Yes, I really don't think there is much disagreement here - just different degrees of nervousness! I think you are the bravest! and it is certainly working for you - I do not doubt that.
I think that your set-up would probably stand to benefit the most from electrolysis, but sounds like even in your scenario, you feel that it is overkill.
I think that your set-up would probably stand to benefit the most from electrolysis, but sounds like even in your scenario, you feel that it is overkill.
Cronk
New member
Here's the pump I'm thinking about for my res. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product...sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A27K4A1IJ6225M
they make replaceable diaphragms which makes it batter than garbage.. (320 mph/24,800 cc/minute capacity in 16 gallons seems good.
they make replaceable diaphragms which makes it batter than garbage.. (320 mph/24,800 cc/minute capacity in 16 gallons seems good.
Cronk
New member
those emitters last for 1600 hours. They tell you not to run them continuously, only 1-3 hours prior to watering. what then controls the sludge during the off time? seems like a large pump is a better plan, or a chiller. They run $300 and operate like an air conditioner. you can calculate the cost of running it with the KW/H rating
or, add an air conditioner to your space and a nice commercial air pump
or, add an air conditioner to your space and a nice commercial air pump