This journal will explain and show how I average a lb per plant and how you can too with no additional time for the grow. This journal will be geared toward dwc hydro, but should work just fine for any growing medium and photo period feminized seeds. I’m sure there are a myriad of methods out there that work just fine and produce a nice harvest. But, this is the one that works for me. Adjust as needed for your set up and the desired outcome. Stay tuned ... much more to come.
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How I average a pound per plant
- Thread starter BU2B
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- lb per plant
oldjarhead100
New member
I'm in .I already noticed that you only put 2 plants in your tent I would have at least 4 maybe 5 ,those are some beauties'
bboyfromwayback
New member
You’re growing some beastly plants. I’ll follow along ðŸ˜
SoOrbudgal
New member
I'm in you have always been one i've looked at for advice and learning when your in the forum. Thanks for bringing it here 
Questions since the last post: growell - I will be addressing photo period feminized seed grows only. With that being said, I have done this method on an auto - but not on purpose. I didn't know it was an auto when I started. I don't grow auto's as a general rule. It's just my preference.
Please note that a huge portion of my working knowledge when it comes to growing was gleaned from right here on GWE. I owe a huge debt of gratitude to the amazing people in the GWE community, SiriusFourside & NebulaHaze for a place to pool all the information together.
I have been using this method for a few years - so I'm sure there are things I may not cover as fully as you would like. Please, feel free to ask questions or make comments, I will do my best to address them to your satisfaction.
The photo below shows all core nutrients that I use with the exception of ph-UP, and epsom salts. Your choices may be different but should include a well rounded cannabis specific nutrient or nutrient mix and your choice of bud enhancer. I use the gh flora grow trio because they offer a hardwater version which I need for my location. I find the ph perfect trio of Bud Candy, Big Bud & Flawless Finish works well and covers all the bases.
Also please note - with the exception of the ph perfect trio I NEVER use full strength nutrients. I use a 3ml pipette in place of the standard 5ml teaspoon. Believe me, your plants will do just fine with about 1/2 the label recommended amount of nutrients. An added plus is that measuring with a pipette is a breeze.
TIP: Did you know that germinating your seeds with the moon as your guide will make your seeds sprout sooner?
If you start your seeds with a New or Full moon seeds will often sprout in 24 hours, and as a general rule are ready to 'start' faster.
Please note that a huge portion of my working knowledge when it comes to growing was gleaned from right here on GWE. I owe a huge debt of gratitude to the amazing people in the GWE community, SiriusFourside & NebulaHaze for a place to pool all the information together.
I have been using this method for a few years - so I'm sure there are things I may not cover as fully as you would like. Please, feel free to ask questions or make comments, I will do my best to address them to your satisfaction.
The photo below shows all core nutrients that I use with the exception of ph-UP, and epsom salts. Your choices may be different but should include a well rounded cannabis specific nutrient or nutrient mix and your choice of bud enhancer. I use the gh flora grow trio because they offer a hardwater version which I need for my location. I find the ph perfect trio of Bud Candy, Big Bud & Flawless Finish works well and covers all the bases.
Also please note - with the exception of the ph perfect trio I NEVER use full strength nutrients. I use a 3ml pipette in place of the standard 5ml teaspoon. Believe me, your plants will do just fine with about 1/2 the label recommended amount of nutrients. An added plus is that measuring with a pipette is a breeze.
TIP: Did you know that germinating your seeds with the moon as your guide will make your seeds sprout sooner?
If you start your seeds with a New or Full moon seeds will often sprout in 24 hours, and as a general rule are ready to 'start' faster.
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ChadWestport
New member
Your talents shine. Nice stuff
AccidentalGardener
New member
I made some popcorn. I'm tuned in 
SoOrbudgal
New member
Great tips
SoOrbudgal
New member
Okay folks, time to get this road on the show!
Timeline: The goal is to finish up the tutorial with my current grow, which will be finished in around 5 weeks
Unless everyone has an issue with it I am going to skip over a tutorial on germination. I figure at this point everyone knows how to germinate a seed and more than likely have their own method of doing so; either paper towel and baggie or 'putting' the seeds directly into their growing medium for germination. If anyone has any questions regarding germination, let me know and I will be happy to address them, otherwise, we'll consider the topic covered.
For those who have not read NebulaHaze 's tutorial on modified manifolding I think you will find it very helpful and inline with what I am going to cover. There is a good chance that much of the information will be in Nebula's tutorial as well - but in a different way that will make it easier for you to understand. The tutorial can be found HERE -> https://www.growweedeasy.com/manifold
While this tutorial will work for any cannabis strain, you will have better results with strains whose leaf nodes are closer together or with strains specifically bred for large bud packs (e.g.; White Fire OG x Big Bud).
Keep in mind this tutorial and method is specifically for indoor growing under lights.
The initial training begins fairly early in a young plants life and you are 80% done within 4 weeks. This method or any High Stress Training (HST) should only be carried out on healthy and thriving plants. For your sake, and plants, never start hacking away at a plant that is struggling just to stay alive.
You are going to veg your plants for the standard 8 weeks before kicking them into flower. Start with a good healthy young plant. I know growers, who in an effort to keep the plant 'as natural' as possible, use 4 to 6 hours of darkness to their 24 hour vegetation cycle. You are free to do as you like, but during vegetation mode, it's perfectly safe for your plants to have 24 hours of light as darkness is NOT required UNTIL you are ready to kick your girls into flower. My personal preference is for 24 hours of light during vegetation.
Once your plants have gotten 4 sets of leaves you're ready to begin (sprouting leaves don't count). If your plant had a rough start or if you are a little unsure about clipping your plant when its so tiny, you can wait until node set 6 of leaves. If your plant is doing great and you are confident enough that you know what a sprouting node looks like earlier is better. Generally, your plant is going to be about 2 weeks old when you begin the initial training.
Snip off the growing tip of your plant between nodes 3 and 4 being careful not to damage the two growing tips above the 3rd set of leaves. You want 3 leaf sets below your initial clip.
When done topping your plant, you will have something that looks like the image above. Don't worry too much about time - if your plant takes a little longer to get to 4 nodes that's perfectly fine. Remember your veg time is not going to change, but you will need to work at the speed your plant grows NOT a given amount of time.
Allow your plant to grow as usual. Keep doing what you would normally do for a plant that is 2-3 weeks old. At or near the start of week 3 you are going to remove all the leaves below your initial topping with the exception of the two large fan leaves below your new growing tips. I believe Nebula suggests waiting until your new growing tips have at least 6 nodes before removing the leaves. I find that as long as your plant is healthy and has at least two nodes per each of your new branches that will work just fine.
When you are done with phase two of training your plant should look similar to the one below:
Generally, depending on your plant, phase two of training should be completed by week 3 or 4.
And... guess what? You're 80% done at this point, but the last 20% will kick your flower harvest into overdrive, I promise.
Timeline: The goal is to finish up the tutorial with my current grow, which will be finished in around 5 weeks
Unless everyone has an issue with it I am going to skip over a tutorial on germination. I figure at this point everyone knows how to germinate a seed and more than likely have their own method of doing so; either paper towel and baggie or 'putting' the seeds directly into their growing medium for germination. If anyone has any questions regarding germination, let me know and I will be happy to address them, otherwise, we'll consider the topic covered.
For those who have not read NebulaHaze 's tutorial on modified manifolding I think you will find it very helpful and inline with what I am going to cover. There is a good chance that much of the information will be in Nebula's tutorial as well - but in a different way that will make it easier for you to understand. The tutorial can be found HERE -> https://www.growweedeasy.com/manifold
While this tutorial will work for any cannabis strain, you will have better results with strains whose leaf nodes are closer together or with strains specifically bred for large bud packs (e.g.; White Fire OG x Big Bud).
Keep in mind this tutorial and method is specifically for indoor growing under lights.
The initial training begins fairly early in a young plants life and you are 80% done within 4 weeks. This method or any High Stress Training (HST) should only be carried out on healthy and thriving plants. For your sake, and plants, never start hacking away at a plant that is struggling just to stay alive.
You are going to veg your plants for the standard 8 weeks before kicking them into flower. Start with a good healthy young plant. I know growers, who in an effort to keep the plant 'as natural' as possible, use 4 to 6 hours of darkness to their 24 hour vegetation cycle. You are free to do as you like, but during vegetation mode, it's perfectly safe for your plants to have 24 hours of light as darkness is NOT required UNTIL you are ready to kick your girls into flower. My personal preference is for 24 hours of light during vegetation.
Once your plants have gotten 4 sets of leaves you're ready to begin (sprouting leaves don't count). If your plant had a rough start or if you are a little unsure about clipping your plant when its so tiny, you can wait until node set 6 of leaves. If your plant is doing great and you are confident enough that you know what a sprouting node looks like earlier is better. Generally, your plant is going to be about 2 weeks old when you begin the initial training.
Snip off the growing tip of your plant between nodes 3 and 4 being careful not to damage the two growing tips above the 3rd set of leaves. You want 3 leaf sets below your initial clip.
When done topping your plant, you will have something that looks like the image above. Don't worry too much about time - if your plant takes a little longer to get to 4 nodes that's perfectly fine. Remember your veg time is not going to change, but you will need to work at the speed your plant grows NOT a given amount of time.
Allow your plant to grow as usual. Keep doing what you would normally do for a plant that is 2-3 weeks old. At or near the start of week 3 you are going to remove all the leaves below your initial topping with the exception of the two large fan leaves below your new growing tips. I believe Nebula suggests waiting until your new growing tips have at least 6 nodes before removing the leaves. I find that as long as your plant is healthy and has at least two nodes per each of your new branches that will work just fine.
When you are done with phase two of training your plant should look similar to the one below:
Generally, depending on your plant, phase two of training should be completed by week 3 or 4.
And... guess what? You're 80% done at this point, but the last 20% will kick your flower harvest into overdrive, I promise.
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