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HELP! Diagnosis! Fade or Deficiency?

2

24McNuggetsPlease

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Diagnosis: Fade Or Deficiency? Sherbet Queen Day 40F . Soil/PerliteFabric pot. 240 W qb dimmed 75% 10 inches away from canopy .Advanced Nuterients Bloom AB +Big Bud, Bud Candy, B12 & Calmag. Recently upped to 90% strength. Water Phed to 6.4-6.8. Every 3rd watering is clean phed water.
 

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are you seeing this mostly on the top of the plant? Looks like light burn because areas closer to the light, the leaves appear to be praying upward and the tips are looking burned. 10 inches even at lower wattage brightness can still cause burn...light burn can take a few weeks to show so if the light was at full strength and not at least 18 inches from the top of canopy i'd say that's your problem.

Leave the light at full strength but move it to at least what the manufacturer recommends. If you don't know, start at 20 inches and try moving it up a couple every week untill you hit 30.

Curious, is the light off to one side and not overhead? That would explain why one side looks ready and the other not so much.

I would also only add nutrients
 
Hi! So these are two strains. On the left supprisingly short sativa, on the right the sherbet queen . I didnt anticipate strech and flipped too late. I cant put the light any higher or bend the plants any lower.. so the purple color of the leafs is from the light burn ? Not nutes ? And its pics mostly from the mid-high parts. Thats why im dimmed to 75% ..
 
Are bumps allowed ? If not let me know and I wont do it again. Just would appreciate some input as some people on reddit said : N tox, PK def, Overwatering, Natural fade. One of each. Hard to tell what it really is.
 
Could easily be a lock out. Maybe due to overwatering. With those wierd burned edges along the leaf.
what is your temperature in the room ?
 
Hello 24, the issue may be a cal/mag deficiency, the leaves are exhibiting signs of both, but that could be due to not enough cal/mag or a ph issue that is preventing its absorption. But, 10" sounds very close to me! I'd go with 20" but if you can't raise your lights that far then I'd do something I hate to do but have had great success with..if you do it right I think its more dramatic for us than for the plants!
*Check out the tutorial here on GWE on supper cropping_ basically you carefully pinch the stem until you feel it "crush", then carefully bend the branch over sideways and tape the joint/bend with some tape_ the kind made for grafting plants is probably the best but I've used sports tape very successfully too. This will enable you to get your tallest colas more level with the ones below and give you a little more "head space". Super cropping always makes me nervous but its always worked out well. If your tallest colas are a little more advanced than the lower ones then it will give the lower ones time to catch up and even out your harvest as well. Also_ if the cola bends over more than 90 degrees then you can help support it with some string or plant ties. Another way the worked really well for me was to tape an "L" bracket to the stem right below the bend and then tape the bent stem on the top side of the bracket_ giving it good support without the ties.
Good luck and I hope it all turns out well!
PS: how cool is your grown room getting when the lights are off? The purple color might also be due in part to temps lower than 60 degrees F.
 
Yup, If its tying that warm then the color is due to something else. Could be genetics too. Some genetics will cause a plant to develop purple tinges to their leaves, especially during flowering.
One of the most beautifully colored plants I've grown as an Ayahuasca Purple that had really purple leaves_ the entire leaf. The other was kinda stripped with purple.
Hope all turns out well.
 
What is the PH of the soil, looks like lockout from here.
When I had this type issue, I went and purchased a new Bluelab PH+ combo meter, and found that even thought the water going in was good, the soil had drifted to 4.0-4.8 and would have been good for blueberries. Once this was taken care of things looked much better.
 
Yeah PH 4.0-4.8 is pretty acidic! You must live near an evergreen forest? We do and our backyard is blueberries!
I use the PH+ meter too and it works great... I grow indoors in a coco medium ( 1/2 coco, 1/2 other inert stuff). I've found that when i use any coco medium, even if its been "pre-washed", that the PH of the runoff is about PH 7.0 when watering with PH 6.0 water. Once I figured this out I started flushing the medium with PH 6.0 water before planting anything, until the runoff was close to 6.0. Then before planting seeds/seedlings I flush the medium with 1/4- 1/2 strength nutrients until I get about 50% runoff. Now my seedlings take off better from seed and again right after transplanting. Works for me. It always seems to be a process_learning what works best with what you have. It took me about 4-5 grows before I found a combination of medium and nutrients that work best for the constraints of the environment I can supply them with.
 
if all else fails I'd just try watering with plain water for a week or so and make sure it's at the proper PH level. Sometimes just plain watering without added nutes and proper full spectrum light is all the plant needs as it matures. At least one of your plants seems to be suffering light burn but since you dimmed them that likely won't happen again.

Not even sure why you would dim them and then move them closer to the plants. Most grow lights typically need to be moved away (light burn) from the plants not toward them, unless of course they really weren't designed for growing weed.

I personally set my lights at about 30 inches from the top of the canopy and move the light up as the plant grows taller. Then drop to 12/12 for photoperiod.
 
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