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Deficient or toxicity

Lucky once, maybe. Lucky twice, slightly less likely. After almost 2 years I’m fairly certain it’s not luck at this point.

Bacterial and microbial growth won’t be slowed significantly until the temperature is dropped below 40F. They will multiply at similar rates at whether the temperature is 60F or 75F.

Providing oxygen in order to maintain healthy roots is what is most important. Colder water is one method, but the same results can be achieved with a larger air pump or an O2 emitter. The measurement of DO refers to how much oxygen the water can hold and while those levels change based on temperature, they are irrelevant if the oxygen levels are constantly being replenished.
 
Yeah this weekend I'll be doing some work to at least try to keep temps consistent if anything. I've got 200 more Watts to pull outta these lights so that's only going to increase temps further. Gotta pick up a 2 outlet timer, and see if i have enough hose to get the pumps outside. Probably gonna run a line from the air pump intake to outside the room as well to pull in cooler air.
 
You said you were having issues until you began flushing. So maybe you were not so lucky after all. I have been growing in DWC for going on 5 years. Never had a single issue, never had to flush once. 68F is clearly the DO drop off from all the information given above. I have a hard time hearing facts with out some form of verifiable information. Especially when the authors of this website are saying exactly what I said about the water temps above 70 causing the potential for pathogen issues. It’s not as much about the temperature, it’s more about proper oxidation. Which is what controls the pathogens.
And the ability to hold DO means it can not hold any more no matter how much o2 you pump into it. It’s physically in capable of holding more DO with those temps. The chart I posted says it all. I am curious to know your sources for the information you have provided here.
 
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The issues I had were in no way related to the oxygen saturation of water. They were caused by salt residue accumulated on the roots. Do you currently grow in DWC? I read your most recent journal and your results were impressive but that wasn’t a DWC grow.

The only source I rely on is my garden and what the plants in it tell me, they’re all pretty happy. I did my research before I switched to DWC and I’ve read quite a bit about oxygen saturation in water so you’ll be hard pressed to post anything that I haven’t already read in some form or another. The chart you posted referring to a fresh water river in NJ is only loosely relatable to a DWC system. Unless the DO levels were checked within a mile of a dam release point the surface agitation and aeration just don’t compare.

We agree that high oxygen levels are required to be successful, we just differ on how to provide those high levels of oxygen. Colder water temperatures are absolutely the tried and true method, it’s just not the only way to do it, if it was the only way my garden wouldn’t be what it is.
 
I grow DWC in the winter and soil in summer. Because of the temperatures. Oxygen is not soluble in warm water. Do your thing there...but seems like the information available to the rest of the world (plus the authors of this website) are agreeing with what I am saying. Maybe if you provided a little evidence, we could continue discussing this further. As of right now, I respect your opinions, but I think Nebula and Serious have the final say in my book. And I’m going to keep doing what I do. ✌️
 
Obi-Wan if you really do have information that the rest of us don’t know, please submit this to nebula. I have done this before with water quality issues. You will need some actual supporting data to back up your findings, but may lead to edits in their website. Plus nebula is cool to work/talk with. Really open minded about making edits.
I will say, I have been testing water in hydro power generation since 2012. Growing in DWC for 5 years...I have never heard this about the drop off at 75 in any situation.
i am always willing to learn, but you must be willing to teach me. I’m the type that needs to read this for myself. I have a hard time believing anything else now days.
I know you are a good grower, which is why I am suggesting you submit your information to the website authors. So we can all learn something new.
 
No progression of the leaf issues after the light cycle. I think that the plants are just sucking everything out and i got a deficiency. Seems like i can no longer go a 2 weeks without a res change or at least replenishing nutrients, instead of plain water. The other bucket is now down to 680 ppm when it started at 1050 when i changed it last week. No deficiencies starting yet but I'll be changing that one tomorrow morning.

Completely different setup than i used my first grow, so a completely new learning experience when it comes to nutrient needs.
 
If I had any new information for the authors I would absolutely provide it but given that it was this site’s tutorial where I first got the idea that cannabis could thrive with warmer temps I can’t provide anything new.

This is the full write up from the GWE article you quoted above.



What temperature should my reservoir water be?

Here’s the rule I use: If your grow room temperature is in a good range, then your reservoir temperature is also in a good range. You only really need to worry about your reservoir temperature if your grow room temperature is out of the acceptable range.

Many growers aim for their reservoir water to be between 60-68°F because cooler reservoir temps prevent some bad organisms from growing in the first place, and cool water can hold more dissolved oxygen in the 60-70°F range. However, cannabis can grow and thrive in much warmer reservoir temperatures as long as beneficial organisms are present to fight root rot. In fact, I personally have found that hydroponic plants tend to grow a little slower when their roots are cool, and grow fastest around 75°F (as long as you're using a supplement with beneficial organisms to kill root rot).

In short:

Maintain the temps in your grow room and the reservoir is fine

I personally have found hydroponic plants tend to grow the fastest when the temperature is between 73-80°F, with 75°F being a good temperature to aim for. However, with warmer temps make sure you're using a beneficial bacteria supplement to prevent root rot!


I just followed the instructions, by no means did I break any new ground.
 
Yes, I know what you mean with faster growth. In fact, that topic was covered briefly in some of the information I linked a few comments ago. It also said shortly after, growth that is happening too fast can kill a plant as well. Since we both agree with the DO being most important factor. And o2 being significantly less soluble in warm water, I think we agree conceptually. We have different approaches to risk mitigation and what’s best for our girls. I’m sure there are several un-discusses variables (such as water source and likelihood of pathogens present) that make each of our actions prudent to our own set of variables. In short, what works with your grows might not work with mine and vice versa.
Thanks for the good discussions on this topic.
 
Res changed, pumps moved external as it's hot this week and our floor ac units aren't keeping up. Found the water above 75 tonight. I'll be keeping an eye on the roots a bit more this grow since it's my first during the summer. Should be there last summer without Central air as well thankfully. But plants looking healthy as far as i can tell. At least they're a huge improvement from last grow!
 

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Ouch! Well, they look plenty healthy right now. Just going to get hotter the next upcoming months. In desperate times, I put frozen water bottles in my reservoirs. Change them out 2-3 times per day. It can help in a crunch, but sometimes is a big pain.
 
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