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Is it ok to cut off all the original leafs on my clones?

Lord-Xanthor

Lord-Xanthor

New member
Have a lot of posts to catch up on. Todays one of those if things can go wrong days they will. I have a set of clones I started back on January 22nd. Seven of them to be exact. Unlike my newer clones that are fine because I had done things different to them and they are safe and healthy, these seven older clones roots have not pierced their peat tablets yet but opening one of them you can see enough roots have started. I'm borrowing a one of GWE's pictures from a tutorial to show what I mean. My clones are almost exactly like this picture except the bunch of roots for some reason started in the middle instead of at on the bottom. Because this took a lot longer, about 12 days, all the original leafs are either discolored, dying, or rotting. I would like to cut them all off but not sure if the clones can handle this. Here is where I am unsure if its safe for the clones. Every single one of them has a bunch of very tiny new leaf sets that checking under my electronic microscope are very healthy and green. If I cut all the original leafs off, will the baby leafs be strong enough to sustain the plant?
 

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They're probably still providing a function. Maybe cut some off on a few clones and leave some on the rest as a test and you'll be able to know for sure. Why do you want to cut them off- so they look prettier?
 
Weasel said:
Wow. I was wondering why you never answered my question you've been asleep all week ;) I'm jealous...
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Na, Im just bad with vocabulary. I started GSC clones on 1/22/2017, another set on 1/28/2017. The ones I started on 1/28/2017 grew roots faster than my first set. The roots you see in the jiffy tablet, was not showing Friday night. Made my first brownies Friday night then crashed. Woke up Sunday night and discovered my first clone had lots of roots. Crashed again to wake up to several plants showing some rootrot. Quickly sprayed. Rootrot was on two plants I never got a chance to take the lid off of some clones which got too humid. I removed the bad rotted branches. Give me some time to catch up on my posts =) If I accidentally overlooked a post please msg me the link.
 
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Weasel said:
They're probably still providing a function. Maybe cut some off on a few clones and leave some on the rest as a test and you'll be able to know for sure. Why do you want to cut them off- so they look prettier?
Click to expand...

Ever see a bag of lettuce that expired a week prior? The leafs turn brown and slimy. When I took a day and a half nap, I ended up not getting proper care to my clones. Being they were on a heat mat with the covers not removed like I do 3 times a day caused a lot of moisture buildup and was pretty shocked when I found half of the leafs rotting away. Rest of the plants had tiny new leafs so the decision wasnt a hard one. Leave the rotting offshoots alone and most likely the plant will be dead in a few days. Cut the rotting parts off and pray they are enough to sustain the clone.
 
I had to cut all the leafs off on half the plants. To leave them on would most likely kill my plant being the older leafs were brown and slimy. I gather roots had to have formed because even though all the big leafs were cut oft, there was a bunch of tiny plant growth. I even cut some of the clones branches for the few plants that looked like they wouldnt make it.
 
Just dip them/water in the 3% Hydrogen Peroxide solution found in the 1st aid isle at any supermarket. It will fix your problem.
 
Thanks NebulaHaze. My first Clone project was actually more involved then planned. After I made a set of 4 I found. 7 large branches I then cut for 7 more clones then realized that they were so big I might be able to divide each clone into 3 which resulted in 21 more clones. I also forgot to remove the netting around the Jiffypuck but seems the roots had no issues getting through. If I try removing it now, I'll most likely pull off many of the formed roots that already pierced through.
 
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Thats actually part of my solution. Hydrogen peroxide mixed with food and fox farms mold killer. When I started my first grow back in December, two strains had issues with peroxide. They would germinate in paper towel but then die 3 days later with the stems rotted out.
 
Komatchi, this sounds like something I should try as I haven't tried peroxide with my cuttings. Usually the success rate is good but now and then it isn't.
I saw it in that info in the message you passed on to me yesterday. Can't relocate the message for some reason- but I read where you said it solves a majority of cloning problems.
When to dip/water them. Whenever? Or preemptively/first thing?
I just finished taking a couple cuttings. I dipped them in cloning gel. Obviously I'm not going to dip them in peroxide after because it will wash off the gel...
Thanks.
 
I always pre-make my water for my plants, about 5 gallons stored at all times and when I filled them, every one would get peroxide but would leave the bottles open overnight to evaporate what chemicals could be in it, like chlorine and so forth. I test and set up the PH between 6.6 ad 6.8. That bottle is going to last me for years. Untreated water is 9.2 PH which was what caused many of my issues when I started. Once that was fixed, plants haven't had any issues till they were kept completely alone for a day and a half and I realized the clones that got rot, I never sprayed with the anti mold solution so they got hit badly. Its extremely humid here and town next to us is almost always in a constant fog so its not a matter of if you might get mold here its when. When watering seedlings, or germinating seeds I take water that builds up in a 10 gallon container of my dehumidifier, add slight, very slight food, remolding solution, and PH up to 6.8, and use that on mu seedlings which seems to work better than tap, especially when we keep getting town notices of some new type chemical their trying in our water supply.
 
Straight peroxide I wouldn't use on a plant Weasel. I put 4 capfuls myself per gallon and a half water among the other feeds I put in. I either spray their leafs or just water the plants themselves. I would have a pail set up with a gallon of ph tested water and 3 capfuls of peroxide. Reason it was taking me so long to get my clones to take, I was giving them too much water for one, I was using small cuttings too. The trick to getting faster root growth is from my experience to keep the leafs moist and to have water in the tray. Not a lot, but enough where the roots are forced to grow downwards like my picture above. I have the bad habit of doing things my own way, then reading up here to find out as usual what I had been doing on other plants wont work well with cannabis . As for not finding my post, most likely I started talking way off the subject and what I said could have been info on stopping mold but managed to put it under a post like "Time to flush?" very bad habit of mine too lol
 
Weasel When I get some time tonight I'll make a simple propagation guide and post it.
If you are getting root rot, something fundamental is wrong. You will probably need to change the entire process that is being used in some way to fix it.
It's generally high humidity with standing water that causes it to form. There are lots of ways to clone via cutting without any issues. The method is honestly just based off personal preference.
If you are trying to get something to 'root faster' while using the same hormone, you are fighting a losing battle. That is based entirely off genetics and plant hormone concentrations; provided you have your climate correct.
 
Thanks man. No I don't have any major issues. But I do get it sometimes especially if rooting is slow and the cuttings end up sitting for much more than two or three weeks. My grow is a real skin of the teeth operation in terms of actual time available at the place, and I know there is more that can be done in the cleanliness department.
But since cloning rates are good enough that they've got me by for many years now, I don't lose sleep over it. It does sound like peroxide would be helpful though.
 
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