nebula is it ok to pollinate a feminized female with male pollin or will it produce hermie's? just wondering
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I'm sure Nebula can answer better than I can but you should be able to pollinate a plant grown from feminized seeds just like any other. The plant that produced the feminized seed is forced into being a hermie chemically as opposed to having a genetic trait that allows it to hermie naturally or under stress. Naturally occurring hermies will produce seeds/offspring that are more likely to hermie because they contain that genetic trait. Chemically induced hermies produce normal female seeds/offspring with no more tendency to hermie naturally than any other seed.
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Couldn't have said it better! Like Newf said, that's totally okay
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My interest is heirloom strains.Varieties like Lambsbread which have been around literally for decades, centuries or millennia.If I acquire seeds for one of these, how do I keep a pure strain going to make seeds for future years?Can’t really use clones since it gets too hot here for a few months each year to run lights. Open pollination indoors would limit me to a single strain grow to keep them from crossing with anything else, but it works in theory.Any suggestions would be appreciated.Last edited by Zativa; 05-16-2017, 12:59 PM.
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I was considering a few Lambsbread seeds sometime soon doing exactly what Tony and Oz suggested. Haven't quite decided whether to just open pollinate and get a lifetime supply of 'regular' seeds or go for feminized. Everything I've read about this strain makes me determined to try it. Right at the top of Bob Marley's favorites, physical effects supposedly so minor it can be an all-day/every-day smoke. Found a clip online of a very experienced medical user who did a few big tokes, watched him forget the start of a sentence by the time he reached the end. Many versions of its history, I like the one from my favorite seed shop: https://oldschoolba.com/old-school-s...mbsbread-seeds. Hit that page and find out what 'Accompong' is...
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Use colonial silver make 2 clones and when there established start useing colonial silver on one and it will female hermie/ create Pollan then u can pollinate the other clone and u will now have feminized seeds of that one breed
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Hi........I don't know if this has been asked.......can E.C and PPM be explained in layman's terms and which is best to follow?.....Thanks😀The more I know, the better I grow.
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They measure two different properties, so you need to follow both of them (and they don't always agree). pH is a measure of how acid or alkaline a solution is. The scale runs from 0.0 (as acid as water can get) to 14.0 (totally alkaline). Neutral water is pH 7.0. It is a logarithmic scale, so a change of 1 pH means the concentration of Hydrogen in the mix goes up or down by a factor of 10X. Most living things don't generally tolerate anything too far from pH 7.
PPM just tells us how much total stuff is dissolved in a sample of water. The number doesn't tell you WHAT is in that water, just how much. Zero PPM means absolutely pure water, 1000 PPM would be a fairly stiff mixture of most fertilizer mixtures, for example. If your house has hard water, the PPM reading will include that as well as whatever you intentionally add.
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PPM and EC are virtually identical -- they just measure how much stuff is dissolved in your water, regardless of WHAT is in there. PPM is just the concentration of dissolved stuff in parts-per-million. It is also called 'total dissolved solids' (TDS). EC measures the electrical conductivity of that water, which increases when there are ions from dissolved chemicals. Different ways of measuring the same property, and most meters can switch from one to the other. I've seen PPM used more, so that's what I track.
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LST and SCROG...
First I topped my Indica plant just once. Then, over time, I tied down the longer stems to create the table and give lots of light to the center of the plant. But I wanted to try scrogging so when she seemed big enough, I released the tie downs and put my screen over her. The three longest stems have just reached the screen for tucking. All the other center most nodes have a way to go. I understand they will quickly grow upwards during flowering stretch.
My question, why did I do that tying down if I ended up releasing the stems for Scrog? These stems are nicely growing outwards towards the screen edges. If I hadn't tied them down, would they have been straight up and difficult to train towards the outside of the screen? Would they have impaired the development of the nodes forming along their own stems?
Is this the best method to prepare for scrogg if you are only growing one or two plants?
Thank you!
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I'm fairly certain you tie them down early to train them into the curves you need. If you wait too long to bend them, they will turn into hard wooden sticks which break rather than bending. I think some varieties become 'woody' faster than others, so it really matters most for those specific strains.
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I have a guestion about trichomes. Should the trichomes be amber on sativas and cloudy on Indicas. Does a sativa need to be amber to give you more of a body high And should an indica be taken when cloudy so you get the highest thc. I think sati as are more of a head high and an indica was more relaxing high. Anyone have any thoughts on this. Sounds like a great platform
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you might find this interesting
Here you have a translation of an article from TGA Subcool about the harvest of cannabis plants. Both the effect and taste of marijuana are directly related to its harvesting time. How to know which is the perfect time for harvest? What are trichomes and how to harvest plants depending on their colour? How to maximize your crops according to the desired effect? Here you have the answers to all these questions, with examples and personal experiences...Subcool
although it all just comes down to what effects you're after.
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Thank you Oz. That was a very interesting article. If I may ask are you familiar with the authors work. Would you trust Dani as much as Nebula or Sirius. I've read a ton of articles by a lot of different people. It's hard to separate the growers from the writers. Thanx again Oz
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What is the Daily Light Integral saturation point of cannabis?Completed auto grows 3
2x4 Gorilla tent
600W HPS
Coco
GH Flora Series trio + Armor Si, CALiMAGic, RapidStart, Liquid KoolBloom, Floralicious Plus, FloraKleen, Diamond Nectar, FloraBlend, FloraNectar (Pineapple Rush version), Dry Koolbloom + Great White mycorrhizae & Terpinator
Grows using this setup: 1
Largest yield from this setup: 20oz / 567g
Previous grows:
http://forum.growweedeasy.com/forum/...row-first-grow
http://forum.growweedeasy.com/forum/...world-of-seeds
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I'm very interested in this as well how much light is the maxium amount of light a canabis plant can use with and without added co2 upto 1500ppm of added co2 and also I'm aware photos will need less than autos can anyone find info for both I also know indicas and sativas can handle different amount but I'm very curious about all of them if anyone can answer this or give links for use to do more research it would be much appricated
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At what point is your plant ready for the space bucket? I had a few failed grow attempts that either never made it past the germination/seedling stage, or I moved a plant too early to the bucket and it didn't thrive.
This attempt I transported the jiffy pod to a 3" jiffy pot to continue growth. I had a few issues with early light burn due to the lamp being very low (using 1 of the 4 CFL from my constructed space bucket) and some drooping of the 2nd set of finger leaves. I cut back on water and they perked back up. I also added a small bit of fox farm ocean forest to the top of the soil on the pot. That seemed to make a difference in the overall sturdiness of the plant.
Any advice is appreciated!6 Photos
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Randy that stem stretch and the light colored leaves could also be not enough light. It is almost impossible to get light burn from CFL's. (I actually have my young plant leaves touching my T5). Obviously if the cfl bulb is hot to the touch you don't want your leaves to touch but it can be an inch or two away without any problem. With CFL's the more the better. What watts are your bulbs?
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Did you get the answers you were looking for? I use cfl only. I'm not an expert but I know a good bit about them from my limited experience. At some point you have had your light very far away from your plant it would seem. Hard to get lightburn with cfl not impossible but you can almost touch your plant with the bulbs. That didn't read right. You can get cfl bulbs within one to two inches and still be ok.
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Thank you everyone for the input.
Zativa - I was watering daily but only enough to keep it damp. little to no run off. I let it dry (skipped yesterday) and watered again today. enough to dampen the sides of the jiffy pot but no run off out the bottom. The amount of nutrient soil (ocean forest compared to the organic potting mix shown) is a minimal sprinkle on top done 3 days ago where it's been in the potting mix for 2 weeks.
Newf & Jeg - That single bulb is a bit high up now. Maybe your suggestion about light means it is time for the space bucket so that all 4 bulbs are in effect OR lower that single bulb for now. Right now using a single 100w equivalent (23w) daylight cfl just using a metal hood/clamp. There's a small fan off to the side some distance blowing a breeze towards the plant.
I can't seem to add pictures into my additional comments. I'll have to add them to the original post
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hello there.i wish you have great day.
i did plant my seed.by soaking overnight.then plant in plastic cup.so my question is .do they need watering and if they do.how often and how much
for a baby plant???
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@Newf
thank you very much for info.
i will do this way.and i put my knuckle finger in soil.to know when she needs water.
now again.question.
i saw some web like a spiders web.around the seedling.top of that.what this.and is this matter?
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its not connecting to spider i think.maybe wrong.but i think its from seedling self. stretch it from the crust
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