What is your biggest question about growing cannabis?

[Satyaban]

I have this disability called "essential tremor", maybe one of you all have it as well, the thing is it is hard for me to taken clear pictures when I hold a device to do it. My problem is ph, or whether to trust the testers I have. For starters I know that my tap water is pretty balanced because I had tropical fish and tested my water on a regular so historically our water here is very good. I have 2 of those stick in the soil meters and they don't really react when stuck in the pots, and they don't react when stuck in hot soil. When I say not reacting I mean the needle stays on the acidic end or as in not moving. Am I wrong in assuming the soil I used is balanced? If the FFOF and super soil are balanced shouldn't my tests say so. I don't have any faith in those testers, I have 2 that are the same, and the moist test is OK, but I don't like the light test too tough, I had to almost touch the 120w "full spectrum" led to bury the meter. If my plants are looking good maybe I am stressing myself over nothing. Its hard when there is little to do by water and get a trellis ready.
My plants 6 GSC and 1 mystery seed are at 4 wks on Friday.

[Puglover1]

Rcass did you read that link? I'm not a hydro grower.

[Rwise]

Read this

https://www.growweedeasy.com/cannabis-plant-problems/sulfur-deficiency

[Rcass]

Hi folks,

I can give all the specs if needed but for the moment my biggest question is “has anybody encountered seedlings with yellow veins (see pic) and basically no growth. If so what was the cause(s)?”

[Puglover1]

Last year in summer I filled empty quart Powerade bottles with water, froze several, put them near oscillating fans or just set them around in my closet, the floor has a thick plastic sheet over the carpeting. I had extras ready if the water melted, just switched them out. It helped the temps stay around 80F to the lower 80's.

[3Berries]

Make sure the humidity is where it should be, in the mid 70% at that temps. The more moisture in the air the more heat it can hold.

[stonedassassin1319]

how can i deal with temperature with a 150w HPS grow light (without cool tube)????? i have no way of keeping my 2x2x6 tent cool. every time i leave that light on and come back to check on my plants the temp is at low 90’s i fee like my babies are getting burnt up. i’ve put a bandana, right under the bulb not too close so it looks kinda like a hammock but with the 4 corners individually stuck to each corner of the metal part of the lamp with magnets, as a shade. it kind of helps with temp but now my girls don’t have direct light hitting their leaves. i have a portable AC but it’s expensive to keep running since it’s a 8,000 BTU ac. i got 2 plants growing one is like 12 inches tall i didn’t mainline it cuz i didn’t know what that was til now and the other is 5 inches tall. the stem is still weak right now and idk when to main line that one . both plants are kinda dropping due to wind burn (YOU CAN STOP READING NOW THE REST IS JUST ME BLABBING)
the supplies i have:

• 2x2x6 grow tent
• cloth pots (just transplanted my 12”)
• nutrients (big bloom, grow big, forgot the other one)
• in-line fan, 1 ducting, carbon filter, and 8” fan
• 150w HPS light , a 45w LED blue and red lights

…i think where i have my tent its not really at a good spot . it’s in my bedroom and nobody is really in there and not much air circulation. my girl and kids sleep with the ac on so it gets cold in there over night only for awhile since i’m nocturnal i control the temperature in there but there’s those times where i sleep at night for like 5 hours wake up at like 1 am. i talked about moving the tent to the dining room area where there a window and the temperature is perfect and i can maintain everything but she trips when she was the one that impulsively bought me a clone for my birthday. so it’s only right to grow the clone the best way possible so it doesn’t die. so

[Satyaban]

I will tell you why I am growing auto. I bought this kit with a 4x4x8 tent and thought for my maiden grow I would do what was easiest. I don't care too much about the quality just the learning experience. My next grow will be one plant or 2 plants, with 2 more a week later where I will try different things suggestions and techniques and a hydro. I'm working with 4 GSC and an unidentified dispensary seed.

[janie123]

Everyone has their own ideas about defoliation! If you ask 10 different growers, you'll get 10 different answers! And you'll probably find at least one person who claims it doesn't work at all!

But I'll share my own personal technique.

I don't remove leaves in veg to the same extent I do in flower. I may manifold my plants, which does involve some defoliating as you build the manifold. Other than that, I focus on getting the shape of the plant correct, and making sure there's multiple main stems under the grow light. Any defoliating I do in the vegetative stage is just to thin out the plant if it starts getting really bushy. One of the main reasons for me is to prevent White Powdery Mold which is common when you have leaves laying on top of each other. I want to make sure there's always airflow through the middle and under the bottom of the plant. In my opinion, if you can't see through the plant at all, and there's no light getting through to the bottom, it's too bushy for proper airflow.

I don't give special nutrients for training. If anything, I'm reacting to the plant. If it's not getting bushy from the nutrients, then you don't need to defoliate. If you're giving good nutrients and a good growing environment, with most strains you'll end up with some bushiness that needs to be removed for optimal growth indoors.

For me, I don't really aggressively defoliate until I'm in the flowering stage. Right before the switch to the flowering stage, I'll usually remove all the leaves and tiny growth tips on the bottom parts of the plant that aren't getting light anymore, if that's necessary (lollipop the plant). I believe this is important to do right before the switch to flowering so the plant is putting all it's effort into the top bud sites instead of the lower bud sites that will never grow into big buds no matter what you do..




I will also strip off most of the biggest fan leaves right before the switch to 12/12, leaving just the top few nodes of each cola untouched, so the plant is almost "all bones". I leaves some few extra leaves at the top of each cola because I believe it helps power the growth of the colas during the flowering stretch so they get as long as possible

Immediately before switch to 12/12 - Before & After





Week 3 after the flip to 12/12 is my last major defoliation. This is what that plant looks like 3 Weeks Later (of not doing anything or taking leaves in that time)



Usually by around week 3 the budlets have formed. At this point I again remove ALL the major fan leaves. After that, I'm done with the majority of defoliation that I do. I only remove leaves after that if they're covering a bud site (and I can't tuck it away) or if the plant starts getting too bushy through the middle and bottom.



7 Weeks later I harvested this



So basically, my (personal) defoliation could be summed up like this:

Vegetative Stage

• Some defoliation while manifolding (If I choose to manifold, I've been experimenting with Sea of Green setups lately, which involves almost no early training!)
• Defoliation of middle of plant if you can't see light coming through it (if the middle is completely dark it means the plant is too bushy)

Right Before Switch to 12/12

• Lollipop the plant (remove leaves in the lower part of the plant that will never get light)
• Thin out the middle if it's bushy
• Remove ALL major fan leaves

Week 3 after switch to 12/12

• Do another major stripping of just about all fan leaves.

After that, I remove any huge fan leaves that can't be tucked, but otherwise just wait until harvest

OH woaw , you motivate me sm Can you ever get in trouble for growing cannabis?

[Puglover1]

"Hello everybody. I would like to know why some people use autoflowering plants for indoor growing, I have seen many people do this and I don't understand why."

Hi there! The only reason I see is a faster turnover for yield, inventory. Or for space reasons. I'm not a fan of autos, photoperiods are more forgiving and predictable, in my opinion.


Ciao! L'unico motivo per cui vedo è un fatturato più veloce per rendimento, inventario. O per motivi di spazio. Non sono un fan delle auto, i fotoperiodi sono più clementi e prevedibili, secondo me.

[martaperales]

Ciao a tutti. Vorrei sapere perché alcune persone utilizzano piante autofiorenti per la coltivazione indoor, ho visto molte persone farlo e non capisco perché.

[3Berries]

I have crispy edges on the top new growth on this grow. I was reading calcium deficiency? I have been staying away from adding much of any nutes during flower. Much flushing has been done.

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[User420111]

Always wondered about this myself. I have gone three grows max with the same soil. My logic is if hydroponic growers can use NO soil at all, what's the difference. As long as you provide the proper nutrients and amend it after every use, why not? At that point it's just a substrate for the plant to put roots into.

I'm now on my fourth grow with the same soil but I did add a bit of new bag to make up for lost volume. They seem to be doing fine

[SoOrbudgal]

I do reuse my soil if they are indoor plants and add add'l fresh ingredients but i've only used it 2x after that it goes in the garden beds. If your plants don't have issues with it i guess it's OK? Never bring that outdoor soil back inside though FYI one and done with that into the garden beds.

[ArrowMaker]

Soil reuse is my question at the moment. For six years I’ve reused old Miracle Grow and added more of it or some Fox Farm to have enough. A hobby grower, I mostly use a 4 X 4 X 6 grow room and 7 gallon fabric pots. My question is, should I chuck all my old soil and start with fresh?