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    All suggestions and knowledge welcomed!!!

    Can someone tell me what this looks like it could be? The yellowing started sometime between the end of the 5th week or beginning of the 6th week of flower. The edges of the leaves started to yellow first and then worked it's way towards the middle of the leaves. Some leaves have some brown spots as well and look burnt. I raised my light and lowered the intensity first because the leaves are all towards the top of the plant which also made me think it could be a problem with either a deficiency or overfeeding of a mobile nutrient. I didn't have any problems until now. It's a Moon Rock Pheno Fem. plant/seed.

    #2
    Calcium, magnesium and iron. Probably a PH issue because your in flower. Fading real fast also. When there are abundant bud locations most fan or support leaves get sucked dry of nutrients and if you try to raise the ratio to fast you will get neutrient toxicity. Harvest time is near.

    Comment


      #3
      I agree with Mr dirty. Probably a ph issue behind it all but overall lacking nutes. You are far enough along so it’ll be ok, they might have just lost a bit of potential. What type of nutes are you using? It may not be too late for one last feeding. I wouldn’t stress too much it at week 6 though.

      Comment


      • damanc
        damanc commented
        Editing a comment
        I'm using Fox Farm line nutes. For flower i been using big bloom, Tiger Bloom, and bembe. I followed the Fox farm feeding chart and stopped grow big, calmag, and Microbe Brew the beginning of 5th week flower. I also used Boomerang up until the 4th week flower.

      • bdeegan
        bdeegan commented
        Editing a comment
        Ok, give them some calmag for sure. Maybe a light dose of nutes, but what’s the ph looking like? You may have nutes left that aren’t being used due to the ph.

      • damanc
        damanc commented
        Editing a comment
        I just checked the soil ph for all 3 plants and they all have spots ranging from 6.8 to 7.2

      #4
      FF ratios and feeding schedules are like most nute pimps, gathered in a controlled environment and pushed to the limits in order to sell product.

      Comment


      • Allenpro
        Allenpro commented
        Editing a comment
        They all do that to a point, its a wonder growers even bother with a 2nd attempt.

      • damanc
        damanc commented
        Editing a comment
        Yeah this is the first time I had this problem using the Fox Farm feeding chart. But along the way I don't give full doses because it says I can give those doses twice a week which I think is way to much. They also say to flush like every 3 to 4 weeks but I usually don't do that. Somebody else grew these 3 plants up until the end of the first week of flower. They really couldn't give me any info s about how much nutrients they were giving it other than they were using Fox Farm. So I think it could have something to do with that as well. So usually I don't follow it to a tee. I give it the nutes it says but different amounts depending on other factors at the moment.

      #5
      damanc


      You can use this chart as a general guide to what your plants want when. I use it to pair down the amendments I actually need and not what the manufacturer wants to sell me. Only thing I would change is to start cal/mg a couple weeks earlier.

      I like to run a 50/50 blend of grow and bloom up into week 6 of flower to keep the nitrogen levels up so that the plant has enough to keep everything green along with using it to help build more flower. If you refer to the chart you can see that Nitrogen uptake actually INCREASES after flip and tops out around week 2 -3 after flip. So what is happening in those 2 -3 weeks after flip? The plant is transitioning to flower. This would lead me to believe that increasing Nitrogen at this time is needed for flower site formation and general stretch that cannabis exhibits in the 2 -3 weeks after flip.
      Calcium and Magnesium are the main building blocks for branches and cell walls. Potassium maintains turgor pressure in the branch system. Silicate will enhance what calcium and magnesium are building. These are the main nutrients that contribute to plant growth, Nitrogen fuels photosynthesis that provides the food needed for these plants to finish the chemical processes needed for growth. After week 6 of flower the plant has done most of the structural building(Branches and leaves) its going to do and will concentrate whatever energy it was using for that to flower production. This is one of the reasons you tend to see flower swell in those last weeks.

      Click image for larger version

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      Comment


        #6
        I do not understand your stopping of cal/mag. Continuing could slow down the yellowing progression. I use cal/mag seedling to harvest and have very little preharvest yellowing . Having discontinued using it has likely contributed to a deficiency. Give them cal/mag and check your PH. This is not reversable but possibly could be slowed. Can't hurt.
        Current Grow: 1 Liberty Haze, 1 Sugar Black Rose, 2 DDoS #33, 1 Purple Haze
        3 gallon cloth pots
        30"x30"x60" tent
        Spider Farmer SE3000
        Coco Pearlite mix
        GH Trio, Silica, Cal-Mag

        Comment


        • Rootsruler
          Rootsruler commented
          Editing a comment
          A fast way of finding out if you are having a cal or mag deficiency is to do a foliar spray. You should know within 48 hrs.

        #7
        I was just following the Fox Farm Feeding Chart but I will definitely give it some CalMag. If I foliar feed it do I spray the buds too or not?

        Comment


        • Rootsruler
          Rootsruler commented
          Editing a comment
          OOPS! Forgot you were in flower. Water your cal/mag in.

        #8
        Ok thanks. I'm doing that as soon as lights come on.

        Comment


          #9
          Your PH is too high. I would be at about 6.5 in soil.
          Current Grow: 1 Liberty Haze, 1 Sugar Black Rose, 2 DDoS #33, 1 Purple Haze
          3 gallon cloth pots
          30"x30"x60" tent
          Spider Farmer SE3000
          Coco Pearlite mix
          GH Trio, Silica, Cal-Mag

          Comment


            #10
            There are several articles on line that will tell you to stop using N in flower, Maybe it works for them but it didnt for me. I would go with the Cal/mag comments , keep an eye on the PH if thats not right all the cal/mag you can buy wont help and I would cut all those damamged leaves, auto or photoperiod, they are not helping and they wont heal.

            Comment


            • damanc
              damanc commented
              Editing a comment
              Ok I will do that tomorrow too. Good point!

            • bdeegan
              bdeegan commented
              Editing a comment
              Root zone ph is a thing but checking it accurately is a little tough. I like to make a slurry with distilled water to check soil ph.

            • Allenpro
              Allenpro commented
              Editing a comment
              I only worry about the media PH when its a water grow, not sure why you would need to chek the root zone in soil or what you would do about ir if its off? Is there a root zone PH target chart on here that I dont know about or instructions on how to correct it? Never understood why growers check the run off PH either. I would think it would be a fairly complex report from a lab incoming and outgoing to find out what the plant is using and what it's not. They check my outgoing ever 3 months and its a through check, I am glad they dont check incoming, If you really want to know how the plant is doing check the SAP PH and the brix

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