Dry ice vs Mason jars

[Gingerbeard]

This is in line with my ongoing dewaxing with dry ice quest. Buddy JR. swears he can get me the stuff.
What does dry ice do to glass, tin, and rubber? Basically, would a mason jar with two-piece lid have a bad time if it sat on and in dry ice? Totally open, lid on but not tight, or lid tight? The jar would be full of alcohol and extract.
A previous experiment had me fill a dewaxing column with dry ice chunks and fill the rest with alcohol. Cool experiment! The alcohol almost stopped boiling and turned thick. That was in a stainless steel, jacketed cylinder made for such a thing. However, it is not appropriate as it does not hold enough volume.
Maybe a more succinct question is, what is a good container for dewaxing on dry ice? Not metal.

[Bluey]

Any sudden large changes in temps would risk breakage of glass. It should handle it fine temp wise though. Maybe try from freezer to dry ice

[Gingerbeard]

Good idea about cold tempering.

[Ckbrew]

Thermal shock is the enemy of glass. So long as the change is gradual you should be good. Anything rubber will shatter if it gets cold enough. What is the volume you are working with? Stainless steel would be a good container choice. Are you going to put the DI in the ethanol extract or outside the container? If the DI is going in the ethanol extract, use a ss thermos. If you want to use the DI outside your container, make a bath with DI and ethanol then put your non-insulated (ss measuring cup or small sauce pan) extract container in the bath. There needs to be a medium to conduct the heat away from your extract. Plain air is a poor conductor of heat. Thermal conduction is what you are looking for. make sense? When you filter it you need to pre-chill the filter and receiving container. If you don't, the wax may melt and pass through the filter, negating you chilling efforts.

[Gingerbeard]

Here's my thoughts on my scant experimenting, what I have seen in videos, and the equipment I can reasonably get my hands on.
I will be working with 16oz of 200 proof, food grade ethanol with X grams of a dissolved weed extract such as resin or kief. To winterize the solution, I will set a filled container in or on DI. After X time I will run it through a Buchner funnel with a 11 micron paper filter. The resulting solution gets un-alcohol'd over X° heat.
I would like to use glass only so I can see what is going on in the solution but am not opposed to find something stainless.
A quick rundown of what I have done so far is in this thread, posts 90 and 91. 91 is the porn.
Hash talk - GrowWeedEasy.com Cannabis Growing Forum

[Ckbrew]

Some things to consider. Dissolve your kief or resin in the ethanol, then filter it room temp to remove solids before filtering at low temperature. 11 microns is very fine and will clog the filter quickly. The more material removed before cold filtering, the faster the process will go. Evaporating off the ethanol will get expensive quickly. It is more of an investment, but if you can spring for it, set up a system to recover the ethanol instead. If you do evaporate it off, do it outside away from any ignition source. Ethanol vapors are very flammable and if you achieve the correct stokiometric concentration it can explode. If you are starting with kief or resin, I would think 480ml of ethanol is an excessive amount. All you have to do is dissolve it. after that, any extra ethanol will be just more to filter and evaporate off. If you were washing flower it would be a different story. Experiment with smaller batches until you get the process finalized.
Have you seen this thread?

https://forum.growweedeasy.com/forum/growing-community/532902-making-tincture-how-i-do-it

It will give you some insight into recovery of the ethanol. This process has potential dangers also.

[Gingerbeard]

Yer killin' me, man. Your setup is my penultimate goal. Alas, I run a strictly ghetto operation in a teeny-tiny apartment. My stove divides the 3 linear feet of countertop space I have.
You brought up some considerations.
The amount of ethanol I mentioned is the maximum I can use at a time as it is the maximum volume of my funnel and beaker. It is also loosely based on various sources suggesting a 1:10 ratio of product to ethanol. Volume wise, I will figure how one ounce of product eyeballs to ethanol. Is that bro science?
Prewashing is a fantastic idea. Pulling raw product through a coffee filter will save me from using the handful of 11 microns I got for the dewaxing. I can even see getting a smaller funnel with smaller micron filters. If any of it is overkill, I'm okay with it. I've been thinking about this for a long time and need to see what all comes from what all I've been thinking about.
Dewaxing in a smaller amount of ethanol. More ethanol cools slower than less ethanol? That for sure is bro science. Something else I was considering is surface area and diameter of the top of whatever container gets frozen. Would a narrow neck container congeal(?) the lipids in bigger globs(?) than a wide neck?
You made tincture. I'm making something to dab and am not going to decarb. But I am curious why you decarbed before distilling. Distilling raises temperatures well above decarb levels. Isn't a pre-decarb overkill?

[Ckbrew]

I run the still under vacuum at -20 in Hg, which reduces the boiling point of the ethanol from 78.1*C (173* F) to 54* C (129* F), so a pre-decarb seemed necessary. This process is an evolution that started with a cold glycerine extraction (not recommended) and that step just carried through. Yes I am making tincture, but the end point of the distillation is close to what you are trying to achieve after filtration in terms of removing the ethanol. I have taken the end product straight from the flask, transferred it to a ss measuring cup, about 20ml, then evaporated off the last bit of ethanol to make THC oil. A more refined RSO type product. It was potent! The size of the neck of the container should be irrelevant to the size of the wax globules formed. The more of the wax that sticks to the sides of the container is less that needs to be filtered out. With out running a lab QA on products to verify results, it is all bro science. I'm just relying on past lab experience and intuition. If the plan is to heat the product for consumption then pre-decarb can be deleted. My process is meant to produce an edible or sublingual.

[Gingerbeard]

Got it. You were only distilling the alcohol. I was flashing back to fractional distillation type setups. Those run in the hundreds of degrees to distill oil.
What freezes to the side of the container gives me an idea. Do you know what a spiked floral frog is? If something like that is upside-down in the top half inchish, might that help with pulling the fats? Maybe scooping the floating frozen before filtering?

[Ckbrew]

"spiked floral frog" I thought that was some type of bedroom toy...

Anything that you can remove before filtering would be a bonus to avoid having to filter it out.

[Gingerbeard]

No, no. That's the spiked floral rabbit.
My brain is filling with what I can suspend in the ethanol to create more of a lipid friendly surface.
Surface area. Multiple filterings. Less ethanol for washing. You got me thinking, CKB.