After see this weeks article on reptile heating mats, it got me thinking about root zone temperatures again. I've had years of successful grows but always looking to improve. My grow room is in the basement with a concrete floor. I always keep air ports raise off floor but have wondered if root zone is still a little cool for optimal growth, especially with air intake blowing across damp air pots. Have thought about using reptile heating pad to help keep root zone warmer but just haven't pulled the trigger. What do you guys think?
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Maybe a dark mat that soaks up the heat from the lights. Put those under your pots. This thread will be interesting for myself. I and a few may have this problem in the winter.1 Marshydro tsl 2000 @ 300 watt.
1 sf2000 @200 watts
2 philzon @230 watts
2x4x5 tent
3x6x8 closet
Fox Farm ocean forest
Black gold for seedling
3 gal pot holes in sides and bottom
RH 40-60
Temp 70-80
Feeding with FF trio with molasses
calmag and a little flower fuel
Light at 10 -16 inches above canopy
Finished growing: Durban poison x Atomic Shiva, Dark Matter x Atomic Shiva, Golden Goat x Atomic Shiva and Summit Sweet Skunk x Atomic Shiva
Next up: Apple Fritter 2x, ATF, Og Kush.
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I rigged up some bucket heaters this fall. They are working great. Still learning the fine details of them but basically It's a length of 4" Flexwatt heat tape and connectors with a two heater temp controller. Then wrapped in some insulation.
My flower room runs mid 50fs with lights out and near 75F lights on this time of year with constant ventilation. I figured an outside plant has it's roots in relatively stable temps all the time unlike the upper part. I am using plastic buckets and saucers so didn't want to use a heat mat as there is no direct contact with the bucket bottom, might interfere with drainage if it did.
Easy make, wrap around and use some tape to secure.
I had an Inkbird controller and tried to run two heaters off one, no good. And the Inkibird probe ws not water poof enough so I got a dedicated two heater controller with water proof probes. The probes need to be deep enough to be in constant moisture. They should also be about 1/3 the way in from the edge. I run them at 73F on and 74F off. ~20 watts each at 110v for 4 foot strip.
A youtube on how to connect the connectors. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4IhEI6xRqc
Official directions!!!!
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0442/8753/files/Flexwatt_parallel.pdf?46321531 24885612981
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/04...ors.pdf?463215 3124885612981
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/04...73243613657645
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Interesting. So... as long as the soil stays warm, 40-50F around the foliage it OK?5x7 closet with reflective mylar on the walls
2 UF-4000 LEDs (set to 25K Lumens at the plant)
150 CFM bathroom vent installed in ceiling exhausting through a roof vent
Elitech STC-1000Wifi Temp&Humidity Controller
1X Sundae Driver in 35g grow bag
2X Orange Velvet in 35g grow bags
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Speaking of the reptile heat mat mentioned by Nebula. I bought one. Noticed in the instructions that it needs to be mounted on glass and should not be in contact with anything else on the heat side of the mat. It's still in the box. I'm a few weeks away from germinating new seeds and want to use the heater. I can buy a piece of glass from the local hardware store but am wondering if anyone has a different solution.Auto/Photo Tent: Gorilla 2x4x7'11" HLG 350R, Infinity 4" w/Carbon Filter, Coco 50/50 perlite
Autopot system: 1 Purple Haze/Malawi 100% Sativa Ace Seeds
Photo Tent: Gorilla 4x4x7'11" HLG Scorpion R, Infinity 6” w/Carbon Filter, Coco 50/50 perlite, Autopot system: 2 Purple Haze/Malawi & 2 Malawi 100% Sativa Ace seeds
Nutrients: CX Horticulture - full line for both tents
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