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[Newbie] Single bud after 1 month?

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  • Going2fast
    replied
    Good on ya take what you've learned and go next level in the next run.

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  • click
    replied
    The two stunted ChemDawgs finished their 4 week cure yesterday and I tried my first home grow. Very nice - such satisfaction smoking your own harvest. Not that there weren't setbacks. In addition to the plants being stunted, I had a fungus gnat infestation which forced me to throw out the bottom inch of the buds since they were so close to the soil and was full of dead gnats. I know what bug-zapper smells like - don't want that in my smoke. I ended up with just enough good, clean bud to fill a single 14oz jar but no mold and it smokes nice. I'm calling it a win.

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  • click
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks for the info. Perhaps since you used a mix you avoided the issues I am experiencing. ..or it could be something else entirely that is troubling me (most of my plants are doing fine after-all). This was an impulse purchase for me so I got home unprepared and uninformed. Next grow will be with considerably more knowledge (mostly thanks to the tutorials and feedback from this forum).

  • TOKABIGONE
    commented on 's reply
    I agree with@Ckbrew, The first node on my just finished autos was very low to soil. I didn't remove those branches and noted much later that node was buried an inch below soil level as soil washed in around it unnoticed. When I saw that I decided to leave it buried to see what happened. Uncovered at harvest to find the node had grown to large marble size with several large root branches coming right out of it but no harm done. Weed can adjust itself to most any condition! Harvest brought several large fat buds.

  • click
    replied
    Originally posted by Rwise 11-26-2021, 06:47 AM View Post
    IF the MG is the organic version it may be ok, else it has time release crap in it that causes problems for us.
    I didn't appreciate this comment as much as I should have back then. I have learned that you indeed Rwise. Today, after weeks of trying to gently bring my pH down below 7, I decided to wage an all-out assault on one of my Watermelon Autos (if I lose it I still have another). I've been watering with 6.5 pH water for weeks. Lately 5.0 and the runoff is still 7.5+ ! So I pulled one melon aside and decided to flush with pH 4.5 water. After 5 gallons draining through the "15 gallon" planter, I was still getting 7.1 . So I made another 5g of pH 4.0 (!) and flushed with that. At last, the runoff pH is in range (5.2). Will be interesting to see if the MG time release stuff pulls it back up to 7.5 in time. Also biting my nails about the 4.0 flush - I hope not too big a shock. If this works, I will treat the rest.

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  • click
    replied
    Looks like I'll get something out of my sad little ChemDawg soon. Most of the trichomes are still clear but a few are turning milky on the middle cola. How much longer do you think before I should harvest? (IOW, should I start my flush?)
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  • click
    replied
    Borrowed a friends FLIR to take this psychedelic pic of the microchamber. Wish I could afford one of these - seems like the perfect tool for monitoring temperatures. Can see the temps of every part of the plant in one pic.
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  • Gingerbeard
    commented on 's reply
    Gingerbeard approves. And the mutt.

  • click
    replied
    After seeing Gingerbeard's ad-hoc setup (https://forum.growweedeasy.com/forum...299#post549299), I decided to move my GelatoPie photo to it's own home quickly fashioned out of an appliance box and other stuff I had on hand. It is a little crowded but now I can keep my autos in my grow room on the 18/6 light schedule. Fan on top comes on when temp exceeds 75F or humidity exceeds 50% in the chamber (outside air is 40-70F and ~25% RH). At night the ambient temperature drops a bit so I added a heater at the bottom to keep it above 65F. The shop bay it is in is dark at night so not too concerned about light leakage.
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  • dilvish
    commented on 's reply
    take this with a grain of salt...I've never had an issue with any auto being transplanted so I am wondering where you got this info from...that's like saying only grow autos in soil...

  • click
    replied
    OK. Update - at day 34 since germination of the seeds and transplanting the clone. I shifted things around to better manage the light for the variety of heights I have to deal with. Quite a wide range of behavior. The Gelato-Pie clone in the right foreground has been topped and spread and I *think* am ready to trigger flower stage (20" tall). Will the 12/12 light for clone adversely impact the AF seeds sharing the room? Pretty sure the answer is yes, but to what degree? Significant enough that I really should figure out how to separate them to provide more light? Poor planning, I know, but I am a newb after-all. Live and learn.

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    My tiny, struggling, Chem-Dog bud sure looks pretty. Too bad yield is so low. Runoff pH is a little high (7.5) so will start trying to bring it down. It has struggled almost since day one with its leaves always being yellowish. Will probably not try that again and will, instead, start some more Melon (foreground left) assuming I like the end product. The Melon, BTW, also is running high pH (7.5) but seems to be coping a lot better (assuming that is the issue with the Chem-Dog).

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  • Going2fast
    replied
    First rule of autos. They do not like being transplanted. If done gently and on a long veg strain maybe but it's best to plant the seed where it will grow up. Indica heavy strains tend to start flower sooner. As little as 18 days.

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  • Rwise
    commented on 's reply
    Not premature, right on time, yes switch to flower ferts, the others are slow but still in the 3-5 weeks, there are also autos that take longer to start flowering (5-8 weeks) the dif is they make a larger yield when they take longer to start flowers..

  • Rwise
    replied
    Those 12 days count also, the seed had sprouted the clock is running which means these are near 4 weeks old and right on time for flowers. Many autos start to flower at 21 days old.
    IF the MG is the organic version it may be ok, else it has time release crap in it that causes problems for us. Do cover the lower part of the plant so it can grow more roots. Dont cover leaves. IF those are look alike plastic pots drill holes in the sides.

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  • click
    replied
    They are actually just made to look like terracotta but, in fact, are cheap plastic planters from, you guessed it, Lowes. Has a drainage tray in the bottom along with a shallow collection pan built-in.

    Anyone have thoughts or experience with a premature budding? Will the plant continue to grow and develop additional buds? Should I go ahead a switch to the flowering fertilizer mix for the premature pair or keep pushing the nitrogen to encourage more vegetation?

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