Second grow, rough start with yellowing between veins and twisted groth

[Xaliuz]

Hello GWE peeps! My friends call me Xaliuz, and i've come here in search of wisdom and guidance as i've run into
some trouble. I currently live on the 68th northern latitude where the climate in the winter is cold and dry wich
interferes with the growroom conditions. The daily humidity lies between 25 and 32% so i spray the walls to get it above
45% witch keeps me going in quite often, tho this will be great for flowering.

For equipment there's a 600w MH with medium adjust a wings defender, 2x 250w 6500k CFLs, its a soil grow mix PKK 12-14-24
with the whole Advanced Nutrients series, 2x109m3 pipe fans with a temp controller attached, currently in 1gal squared
pots going into 4 gal in about a week. There's also a 9" ocilating fan working its thing. The watering.. there's hard
tap-water ph'ed at 8.5 (!!) no chlorine but tons of calsium. Should also mention that it's bag-seeds of a uknown strain,
currently got the drop PHtester but a digital meter is coming in about a week together with PH up and calibration and
storage liquids. Currently using lemon juice as PH down witch probably aint optimal. And and the soilbag sais PH 6,0.

This is my second bag-seed grow, last run i got 4/6 females and one hermied on me. This time I started with a crowd of 25
smallones, and im thinking of trying ScrOG without any plant training what so ever. This should result in about 12 girls.
Have anyone tryed this? What do you guys think about that method, pros and cons? The runnoff water is messured at about
6ph, not below but stil not as high as 6.5 (drop tester). Id guess 6.1-6.2 but the precise colour is hard to pinpoint.

From the start 30% of the seelings looked sick. They've only got spiked with the root stimulator and yesterday they were
fed a 2/5 dose of Advanced grow with nitrogen. If i should diagnose them myself it looked like a Brom deficiency as they
were crooked and growing wierd. You can see from the pictures some leaves are curled downwords as might indicate
overwatering or a slight nitrogen burn? There's also some light discoloration close to the veins, magnesium def maby?
Runoff PH is just over 6. If you guys could look at the pictures and tell me what you think and some guidance on how to
continue i'd be greatful! ohh yea almost forgot, the first seeds came out of the dirt 24th of january and the rest came
1-3 days after so soon done with week 2.

My friend allways grow's with bagseeds and claims that reducing lightning 30min everyday before flower reduses the risk of hermies, is
there any truth to this statement?

Cheers and tokes, Xaliuz.

[Beach_Town_Brit]

Hi Xaliuz and welcome.
Most of those seedlings looks great to me and I assume they've all received the same treatment so I'd be tempted to just write off the troubled ones and blame genetics. Not all seeds are created equal.

I've not heard the light dimming at the end of the day/hermie thing before. I've never had any hermies but from what I've read it's about stress and the classic cause is photo fems getting interrupted during their 12 hours of darkness in the flowering stage.

[William and Sue Ashley]

Like That..I just for my first time planted 2 WW,X.....They have all gotten the same treatment and there is 1 threw 4, size wise...the 2 that are small, were my first germs.....the 2 for the 2nd plant did different....will do again, twice the size.of the first 2.....

[Xaliuz]

Thanks Brit! Been following this form for a while without creating an account, and it seems like such a friendly and including community

What about the leaves that's curled down with the tips inwords towords the stem, also bad genetics?

[Beach_Town_Brit]

From the first picture? I might give that one another week to see how it firms up. Switch thing up on it, if it's been wet let it dry out a bit, or vice versa.

Given that it's bagseed and not commercial seeds a 70% success rate seems all good to me. I don't have much experience with actual deficiencies but it's my feeling that it's a little early for nute deficiencies to be coming up. I think more likely culprits at this stage might be watering, Ph, medium, or genetics.

[Xaliuz]

Yea that one. I'll take u up on ur advice and give it some time. Allright some time baby, it just needs some time :P and so be it. Perhaps it'll clear up with a bit less water. 1gal pots were to big for small plants and therefor i guess it got to much water. Poked a few couple of holes in the top 1-2 inch of the dirt with a clean bamboo stick hoping it will dry out a bit faster

The super special ones can't have any future, but i'll wait til replanting before the grim reaper does his thaang. By then the spacing will become an issue.


Thanks for the input, really appreciate it!!

[Alumahead]

Not all seedlings thrive at first and some folks tend to weed out the runts early on, but I like to let them run a while before discarding as slow starters can sometimes be strong finishers. It's also my understanding that the only way to actually get a hermie is by light poisoning (lights too close or too intense), drastically altered light schedules or light leaks. Genetics can also be an issue as seeds from a hermied plant will likely hermie, too! On another note; as a personal preference I like fabric grow bags for soil as they are inexpensive and make it nearly impossible to over water. Otherwise, I'd say you are off to a good start.

[Xaliuz]

Allright Alumahead, grateful for you sharing your experience with special seedlings! As its bag-seeds it'll be exciting to follow them into flowering season, depending on how many i'll keep it might be quite a big job checking every plant on a daily basis. Seems like most of the new growth is normal, i'll upload some pics soon.

What do you mean by fabric grow bags? pre-mixed soil ready for growing? I was to focused in the start and gave them way to much TLC hehe, almost smotherd them with water.

[NebulaHaze]

My friend allways grow's with bagseeds and claims that reducing lightning 30min everyday before flower reduses the risk of hermies, is
there any truth to this statement?

I'd never heard anything about dimming the lights before the dark period to reduce hermies. One of the best things you can do to make sure your plants don't herm is to make sure every night they get uninterrupted dark periods without any light leaks. Your "night" should start at the same time every day, so you will get the best results by putting your grow lights on a timer. You also want to make sure your plants don't get too hot or otherwise stressed in the flowering stage.

Other than that it's basically up to genetics. Some plants will herm no matter what you do, and some won't herm even in the most stressful conditions!

Perhaps it'll clear up with a bit less water. 1gal pots were to big for small plants and therefor i guess it got to much water. Poked a few couple of holes in the top 1-2 inch of the dirt with a clean bamboo stick hoping it will dry out a bit faster

I think this is exactly it! Your plants look green and healthy, but some of them look a touch overwatered. Even if you don't do anything differently, it's a problem that will take care of itself soon because your plants will be drinking a lot more!

My only other advice is to make sure you get some real PH Down (t's much more effective than lemon juice), as keeping the pH between 6-7 in soil is one of the best ways to reduce the chance of nutrient deficiencies down the road.

Overall it sounds like you're on the right track and your garden lis shaping up nicely!

[Xaliuz]

Hey Nebula Thank you for your informative reply! What i meant by reducing 30 min everyday was to, between 18 and 12 hours switch, increase night time by 30 min everyday, so over a 12 day period, it slowly goes towords autumn for a soft trasition with less stress. Im not gonna try that method but i thought it sounded logical in some way. Anyhow, i've stood inside at daytime with the lights off with the room sealed off and it was complete nautical darkness.

Got PHdown and a digital PHmeter traveling through the mail system as we speak. Is just above 6 PH too low for runoff? Should i just keep putting in 6.5+ish til the runoff PH goes abit up?

I appreciate the thorough help, wooow what nice people cannabis worshippers are Blaze in peace my fellow growers!

[NebulaHaze]

No, that actually makes sense now, and I've heard of people doing that. I don't think it would hurt anything to make your change more gradually! I can see how that might be less stressful for the plant, though it won't hurt them to do the switch overnight, either

And you've got the exact right idea with the pH (putting it in just a touch high if it's coming out a touch low). Sounds like you're right on track!

[Xaliuz]

On the track, woohaaa This train woulda derailed long ago without the help of all of you guys, priceless ! With yours and Greenthumbs info about what inspires female plants i figure the temp exceeding 75F, low humidity on 25-40%, combined 6500/2700K light 24/7 with symthoms of overwatering i might try to seduce them softly into flowering..

[PigSquishy]

Well since you are trying to take your grow seriously, when you checked for light leaks... most people think it means to go in close the door, look and then leave... to really check, you need to go in and close the door for 10-15 minutes to give your eyes a real chance to adjust to the darkness, one thing people will over look is the LED lights on electrical equipment for the grow and now according to latest science plants do use a tiny amount of green light.

When it comes to the gradual shift of the time... don't waste your time... a l;ot of the commercial growers are switching to a 6-hours of light, 2-hours of darkness photoperiod... to help it make sense, stay awake 16-hours straight... compared to taking a 2-hour nap every 6-hours, the moment you start to lose your edge you sleep and get the edge back. For plants they say it means faster, bigger growth, with increased yields. They pull right from Veg rooms to put into Flower Rooms 12-12 light period, if you really want to speed up the switch from Veg to Flower, put them in the total darkness for 3-days when you end Veg until you start Flowering at 12-12 and it will speed up the plants going into flowering.

In all my years growing the two biggest issues I had was over watering and pH... I do not see the "twisted leaves" you mention, just the curled leaf and that just shows the plant is a little over watered, as others also told you. If you had a pH issue it would show up in the leaves, but yours look very nice you are off to a good start.

[Xaliuz]

Well since you are trying to take your grow seriously, when you checked for light leaks... most people think it means to go in close the door, look and then leave... to really check, you need to go in and close the door for 10-15 minutes to give your eyes a real chance to adjust to the darkness, one thing people will over look is the LED lights on electrical equipment for the grow and now according to latest science plants do use a tiny amount of green light.

-Nice tip Greenthumb, thank you! Hadn't thought it through thoroghly. (that was fun to write while flying high ) The fan controller got a green and red light, but is luckly placed on the outside wall. Gonna let the eyes adjust real good and then check for leaks. To bad it's not healthy for plans to be around ganja smoke while i wait haha. Got the window outside the grow-room sealed aswell as a light safety messure.

if you really want to speed up the switch from Veg to Flower, put them in the total darkness for 3-days when you end Veg until you start Flowering at 12-12 and it will speed up the plants going into flowering.

-Wil def do that as time is somewhat of the essence. That's one reason I'm airing the idea of growing allot of plants in a sea of green style, no topping or training just light defoliation with the rest up to mother nature. Is it possible to estimate yield with such a method in comparison to more common grow styles?

In all my years growing the two biggest issues I had was over watering and pH... I do not see the "twisted leaves" you mention, just the curled leaf and that just shows the plant is a little over watered, as others also told you. If you had a pH issue it would show up in the leaves, but yours look very nice you are off to a good start.

-Thats nice to hear as overwatering is not to hard to recover from

[Flockshot]

Do your temps ever get at, or below 65F? If so I would make that my most likely suspect.

[Xaliuz]

Lights on 24/7 atm so never went under 70, allways checking max/min and writing down daily status. After the temp/fan controller arrived i set it to 77 and it fluctuates between 74 and 79

[Flockshot]

Great on the temps. I wish I had mine that good.

[Xaliuz]

Thanks Flockshot I've noticed if the wind picks up and is coming directly on the exhaust, temp rises and if i close the valve for the fireplace the fan does the job again. Overly attached to the plants, so to know how the growing day will be i check the weather forcast

[Xaliuz]

Recieved 2x CO2 bags, tuned the temp up to 81 to dry them out a bit faster as they probably were overwatered. Really looks like they enjoyed the warmer conditions

[Eliot Pryor]

" if you really want to speed up the switch from Veg to Flower, put them in the total darkness for 3-days when you end Veg until you start Flowering at 12-12 and it will speed up the plants going into flowering".

That will work absolutly. I found out by accident. The plant got too tall and I needed to finish the ones in flower cabinet, so I just turned off the light for several days when I did put her in flower cabinet she bloomed immediately. Sometimes I've had them go 16 days after switch to see flowers. Good growing to you !!

[Eliot Pryor]

I think it probably does stress it. In my case it wasn't total darkness just turned off the grow light so it would not burn. It still got ambient light from overhead lights in garage. It recovered fast. It is 54 days in now and looks pretty nice.

[Xaliuz]

Ohh maan she's beautiful! Doesn't seem like it affected her at all!

[Eliot Pryor]

Thank you !!

[Xaliuz]

Ohh did the cardinal rookie mistake of thinking SoG was the same as ScrOG. Thought I invented a new growing method HAHA

[PigSquishy]

I'm going to try to cover a few more points of things I noted in catching up on posts here...

Okay, a plant needs three things to grow Light, Nutrients & CO2 and most people really struggle with the light aspect, because plants can really take up a lot of light, and finally once you have maxed out your lighting for the plant, it will stop growing, until you add CO2... Until you really get to the point of maxing out your CO2 it won't really be cost effective to add CO2 to your grow. Think of it as running a racing fuel for your car as you drive around town stopping and starting and just doing everyday driving, chances are you will not get the performance factors you are hoping for. When you do get to the point of running CO2 again it depends on the lighting, etc... but the books say running CO2 aim for a temp of 84-degrees F... There are even ways to run hotter yet, such as if your plant root zone is 60-65 degrees then you can push hotter temps, and adding CO2 will again increase growth rates even more still. To a new grower this sounds amazing... but here is why I encourage others to learn to grow without CO2 to start out... Because if you get a pH or nute issue, it can affect the plant very fast because you have got the plant growing as fast as it can, compare it to having to make sudden changes to your driving at high speeds verses slower speeds, if and when the plant has a problem CO2 will make the problem speed up too. Also remember CO2 is a gas heavier than air and so you need your room sealed air tight and rain it down over the tops of the plants for best results, also put a fan or something on the floor blowing the CO2 enriched air up towards the plants and around, try to get your money's worth out of the CO2 as much as you can.

If you have an LED light on a controller inside the room, you can always cover the LED's with electrical tape, cheap to fix the light issue there. When you run CO2 you can change the humidity in the room because of the CO2 and because the room is sealed air tight it can lead to issues of high humidity and thus mold issues. When you think of temps, make sure you think of them in two ways... Root Temps and Foliage Canopy Temps... Root temps shouldn't be below 65 for a cooler room (below 80) but the higher you push the room temps the lower you can lower the Root Temps down to 60 to keep the plant in balance. If the floor is to cold raise the plants off the floor just a couple of inches will make a huge difference. People don't realize the Earth/concrete floors can and do suck the heat right out of the air and the bottom of plants pots too if you don't know to be on the lookout for it. Your cooler room temps have me wondering if this could be an issue for you... Because you said "bag seed" earlier and I was just reading an in depth chapter in a book on the male to female ratios based off from proper room temps. Cooler temps promoted more males, while warmer temps promoted more females, and if you got to warm then the ratio went back to more males again. It was also getting very detailed as to when the cannabis plant actually sexes itself because the gender isn't just from the seed, but also from environmental conditions also influence its gender.

There was even a part I was reading on bag seeds and the chances of the seeds being hermies or possibly having the hermie trait in its off spring, hence why so many people do not want to deal with bag seeds because it leaves you with so many question marks of unknowns. In your case I am making you aware of all of this because of your cooler room temps, possibility of hermies from bag seed, males verse female ratio, etc... The best advice I would have for a new grower is to just let the plants grow from seed to fully mature a couple of full cycles without doing anything extra special, such as CO2, stress training, etc... just see what the plant does, how it does it, and get used to the basic plant's life cycle. I say this because its really the best approach, some strains of cannabis do really well under different types of conditions...

When you buy seeds you can research things about a strain, when a strain says its an indoor or outdoor strain for example, if you move it opposite of what it recommends you have knowingly put it into an environment you have been told it does not do well in, and that means you have now stressed your plant. The more stress a plant is put under the more likely it is to hermie or have other mutations if what it prefers for an environment is not optimal, and that is why strains are bred for specific traits and why they tell us so much when you buy seeds and why all these databases put together by people about strains so you can research it and see what others have tried and what has or hasn't worked for them. Bag seeds are most times outdoor crops, grown to be fast growing with high yields and those who grow in this fashion typically care about pest resistance over over aspects an indoor grower would look for in the traits of the seeds they would want, as pests aren't a big issue inside. Your seeds will grow and they will produce bud for you to smoke and enjoy, my point is simply that it isn't cost effective for you to pour extra into your grow this time because you have the cards stacked against you compared to what you could have later on for big yields when you have the chance to get a couple of grows under your belt and understand the basic plants lifecycle and how things work, and iron out whatever problems and issues you discover in your setup as you get going and get them fixed.

Oh and some strains do better in stress training than other strains, hence the idea of why some people do spend a bit of time researching what strain(s) they want to grow given how they have things set up versus another. It's not just about how tall a plant can grow, but really so much more and believe me there is a lot to learn for the serious grower. You can grow cannabis anywhere it seems, even in nature it will either survive or die and it will try to adapt to its environment... at the end of the day the happier she is during her lifetime, the happier you are going to be. But at the end of the day no matter how great of a system you put together you will never be able to out grow the genetics of the seeds you start with.

[bobsakamoto]

That's alot of great info Greenthumb, you really know so much about growing! This kind of knowlege is not found in the top layer of the internet for sure

true that. thanks, PigSquishy !!

[PigSquishy]

Okay, well I will be the first to admit CO2 is pretty awesome and I completely understand why you feel the ways you do... so I will tell you something I wouldn't normally... If you are going to stick to using CO2, depending on the size of your growing area look at CO2 bottles for smaller areas and CO2 generators for larger areas. I did a little price surfing for a friend last year, and found a used CO2 tank on Craigslist for $50, but a new one was only $108 and since they need to be tested every 5-years to see if the tank is still good or if you have to replace it, seriously buy DOT Approved and by NEW. If you buy a tank and it doesn't meet DOT Approval nobody will fill your tank and once they find it doesn't meet specs they won't give it back to you either in some places because it is a serious safety issue, I've seen this issue happen before when a tank has been pulled for random inspection.

So the CO2 50# tank will set you back $108, a CO2 Regulator will set you back another $100-$120, to fill the CO2 tank should run about $25-$35 and then I personally love to tell new growers to check out the DEC-4 by Sentinel as their environmental controller. The DEC-4 will handle the Cooling - Heating - Humidity and CO2 (set to come on at 1100-ppm and off at 1300-ppm) and costs $280. I looked at a few CO2 controllers, that don't do anything else for just $200+... so to get one that does it all for $280, with a 5-year warranty when most others say 1-3 years... Oh and the DEC-4 on its CO2 setting has Day Free, the CO2 is active as long as its daylight, Day Lock the controller keeps CO2 levels 1100-1300 and Night the setting on it for those mushroom growers who struggle to find a night CO2 controller. Well you get the idea why some things just stick in your mind. I mean you can do your own math and see which setup will be most cost effective for you, but the CO2 tanks and CO2 generators are the cheapest long term, just make sure you set it up to be airtight to run CO2 like this. Hope this helps.

[Xaliuz]

What a tool! Just LOVE gadgets like these, toys for men! Can fiddle with the buttns and see it all work perfectly together. And it also controlls the ventilation so CO2 isn't burped out of the room and wasted. Thank you for the tip, thats one hell of a room controller

[Xaliuz]

Your cooler room temps have me wondering if this could be an issue for you... Because you said "bag seed" earlier and I was just reading an in depth chapter in a book on the male to female ratios based off from proper room temps. Cooler temps promoted more males, while warmer temps promoted more females, and if you got to warm then the ratio went back to more males again. It was also getting very detailed as to when the cannabis plant actually sexes itself because the gender isn't just from the seed, but also from environmental conditions also influence its gender.

In the tutorials http://www.growweedeasy.com/temperature its state 20-30 degrees C for veg, quite a huge spectrum. Had 25C / 77F with some fluctuation for the first 10 days and then jacking it up to 27C/81F. Read somewhere, no source sry, that small plants needs a bit cooler temps to start off with. Was thinking of giving them some time before raising the temp again if this CO2 rapid growth seems to be going without problems occuring.

I guess its nearly impossible to say when you dont know the strain, or even if its Indica or Sativa, but at witch temperatures are the best chances of getting the highest precentage of females?

Also, what's the name of the book you were reading?

[PigSquishy]

The name of the book is "The Cannabis Breeders Bible, by Greg Green" and I can honestly say that his writing actually rates up there in my eyes with Ed Rosenthal work... Page-138, paragraph 4... It says going below 65-55 temps (F) will promote more male to female ratios, and 75-85 it will also promote more male to female ratios.... so they want you to try to keep the temps between 65-75 degrees before "calyx" development, which is according to this book when the actual sex of the plant is actually finally set.

[NebulaHaze]

On the point about feminized seeds producing hermies, the breeder makes a huge difference. The way the breeder feminizes the seeds, and how well the breeder runs the breeding program, both have a huge effect on the likelihood of hermies. I wrote a little bit about it here if you're interested: http://www.growweedeasy.com/feminized-seeds-hermies

But basically, if you ever breed a plant that hermies naturally, you are producing seeds that may also have the tendency to herm naturally. When it comes to feminized seeds, you should ONLY use seeds that are produced by chemical feminization (never feminization from natural causes like heat stress, light stress or rhodelization). And you need to test your offspring between two plants thoroughly before selling them, to double and triple-check that there are zero genetics that will produce hermies in regular conditions.

When you stick with a professional breeder, you will get female plants from feminized seeds 99.99% of the time. But when using unscrupulous breeders you may just end up with a bunch of hermies!

[PigSquishy]

Again I 100% agree with you, while it is "rare" we all hear enough people say "its just a weed and you can do anything to it and it will still do its thing, it doesn't matter" and perhaps you have also seen some of those growing environments which make you cringe and be appalled at the growing conditions. It is so hard to ever want to commit and say anything as a "for sure" rule or fact, because of all those variables which can be influenced by the person and how their growing. Other places I've responded in full details like you are doing and got told it was a waste of time and nobody wanted to hear it... but I really thrive on reading all the information I can. I just read that link you posted a week ago, and I read it again and will still read it again tonight because I 100% agree with every bit of it that it brings out. That is why I think this place is so awesome, because not only is this website a great place to learn and brush up on things at, but its members such as you are well very educated on the subjects as well and happy to educate others.

I'm going to go start a new post and tag you and see if we can't wrap our heads around something else equally as exciting as this conversation, because it is a real pleasure to engage in the exchange of information with you.

[Xaliuz]

I hear you about reading and re-reading to really absorb the knowlege, tons of grea stuff, thank you so much for taking time to explain this in detail! According to the criterias for promoting females im out on deep waters. Only thing i got going right on those terms are providing enough N.. After reading NebulaHaze's link on variability of cannabis plant gender the next step would be banana peels.

Haha, just kidding :P Tho it's possible to buy ethylene gas. Gonna read up on that for education purpuses, but as im probably facing 70% males with the current conditions it would possibly be cost effective.

Got the booktitle and authors written down and will for sure try to get my hands on some of that literature!

Will also post some pictures later of the new growth, it's good looking and symetrical

[PigSquishy]

NebulaHaze I thought your name sounded familiar, and then I thought it is because of my love of Haze and assumed it was a strain's name I was looking at lately is why I knew your name. I know you said you wrote a little on the topic and I followed the link and read everything there again, I still didn't make the connection. It wasn't until I was reading my emails and I went back to my last email from this site which is super loaded with so much information and then I finally made the connection as to who I think you are now... Are you one of those people or thee one who is writing all these articles I've been pouring through since I found this site? I've got a message for those people if you can pass it along...

Since I discovered this site for one of those articles, I got so deep into what I was reading I had kept clicking on another link for another article to read when I finished the one I was one, a few days passed and I had my browser loaded with articles from your site and no matter how many of them I read through I still kept finding up to date detailed information, and in such quantity I was frankly blown away. This truly is a very well put together site by everyone involved and the work is simply top notch from everything I've seen and read, I speak to others very highly of your website. You are truly a cut above the rest, and in the ever rapidly changing cannabis industry as it continues to roll out on so many levels for so many of us, it is truly nice to have found a top notch site dedicated to putting all the information to be the best grower ever all into one single place for everyone to have access to. The weekly emails that come to my email are simply hands down worth every bit of time I spend reading it, and re-reading it a few more times to absorb it all, very well done and put together.

[NebulaHaze]

Awww shucks, you're making me blush! Yes, we have a few guest articles but most of them are written by me or SiriusFourside We've been working on the site since 2010 and we're so ecstatic it's been helping people bring more cannabis into the world! The more people who grow, the more bud there is for everyone! Thanks so much for the compliments, and we're glad to hear the site has been helping you!

[PigSquishy]

One of the biggest helping aspects of your site is that I can actually tell people to come here to find the well written articles and then hop over to the Forums if they still didn't learn or understand what they needed to grasp. Maybe you don't surf the cannabis forums out there, but 98% of it is new growers and most people arguing you can just do whatever, RH, temps, lighting... etc... doesn't really matter and then they get so upset if you link it to an article or fact that sides with the proof and truth because it isn't from there. Really at the end of the day like you said, it should be about more of us teaching those who don't know everything we do know so there is more for us all at the end of the day.

I came to cannabis cultivation some years ago because I know gardening and plants and a friend of mine was growing and ran into an issue and came to me for help since I know plants... LMAO, honestly I thought I knew plants but I had to really sit down and get schooled by some masters like Ed Rosenthal and other well known authors and people such as yourself who know more than I... In the end I learned I didn't know nearly half as much as I thought I did about plants and that cannabis cultivators could take their skills and knowledge and really learn to garden and be like master gardeners with huge crops compared to others. Having crossed that bridge between the two sides I've gotten others who have been gardening for 20+ years to also come look at cannabis cultivation as another huge and amazing resource to change how we grow foods, trees, bushes, etc... and it came as no surprise that even BIG AG turned their attention the leaps and bounds the cannabis industry is changing the way we think of nutrients in the field, crop rotation, etc... BIG AG is even seriously looking at using strains of cannabis to clean up fields from everything from radioactive materials like around Chernobyl and Fukushima to also removing years of salt build up in the soil from years of traditional BIG AG fertilizing which now leave land unable to grow any crops.

This is coming out at BIG AG shows and at the commercial cannabis expo's as well, and when I am at the grain elevator and farmers are asking questions about something they read about and having questions about cannabis cultivation, I really want to send them to a place for knowledge not just basics of skimming over it, but the really detailed information they want and need. I do believe it is an article in Big Buds Magazine which brought forth a few farmers who turned to AN as their fertilizer choice and turned out some massive food crop yields which pulled them out of debt that year and saved the farm for their families, and had they not they would have lost the farm and everything else. There is a lot of people turning their attention to the cannabis cultivation industry, new tech is coming out all the time at every trade show and steps are being taken all the time towards legalization because people are finally seeing the huge positive impacts this is having on all kinds of technologies, especially in BIG AG as it was recently brought out in something I was reading about being discussed in the US Gov relating to how cannabis is having a seriously big impact on BIG AG technologies and growing in hydroponics.

Hence why I am so head over heels on the fact the articles here are so detailed, so broken down and simplified so I can happily send people to a place to really get educated. As we both know it always boils down to how much you really understand of what you know, the more you can understand and make the right changes at the right times the bigger the yields, the better the quality, and the happier the grower... no matter the crop. The more people return to putting their own hands onto plants of whatever strain, type and variety the more we each return to taking responsibility for our food and medicines again, the healthier and happier I believe we all will be for it in the end.