First time grower having spots on leaves any advice much appreciated

[kkaazz2]

Hey campesino the buds are growing now,yea! But I am unsure of which leaves to remove? Could you help me out please?TIA

[Chefbjy]

Man that light is super close that might cause some problems.

[Campesino]

Yeah, the light does look reallly close!

Check out this link: https://www.growweedeasy.com/lollipo...nabis-tutorial

I believe that lolipopping is a great idea, but I do not agree with "bud-based defoliation". So I rec that you follow the lollipopping tutorial, and leave most of the canopy leaves in place.
I will trim a few canopy leaves if they are shading out a cola directly under them. But if you look at my grow, it is certainly a jungle in there!

[kkaazz2]

Thanks for reply! Yes I know the plants are close to the light but I am out of space and can't move the light higher up,bummer!

[kkaazz2]

Oh I just noticed some yellowing tips on some leaves does that mean too many nutes? I am watering twice a day with your nute schedule Campesino... appreciate your feedback

[Chefbjy]

It might be the light. Light/heat stress can cause deficiency. My 2 ¢

[kkaazz2]

Oh oh any solution I am out of space on top😩

[D.A.A.S.69]

Yeah, mash the stem between your fingers and bend them out of the light, if not your trichs are gonna get burnt off, don't take long either,
Yeah, like Chefbjy said, that might be your problem.

[Redwasp]

You can supercrop them. I had to on one of my tents. Almost 4 weeks into flowering. It worked just fine.

[Chefbjy]

Would probably be the best bet. I've found that it's much easier to supercrop when the plant is most hydrated. Dry soil and thirsty plants make it easier to break something. Tie it down the best you can.

[Campesino]

Super-Cropping

The purpose is to bring colas that are too tall down. As a side benefit it produces a growth hormone response and the Colas fatten and grow. The best time to supercrop is during the third week of 12/12 lighting.

You can bring colas down as little as an inch or as much as 8-10 inches. What determines this is the distance between the supercrop and the tie down. When the plant recovers (within 12 hours) it will wrap around whatever tie down you put in place. The location of the tiedown will determine the new location of the cola.

Process:

1. Select point for supercrop just above a node with promising growth tip
2. Select point for tie down and preset soft tie to catch and restrain the cola
3. Squeeze the supercrop point with the pad of your index finger and the pad of your thumb (do not use your nails)
4. Seriously squeeze that point, from both directions, as hard as you can. You should feel the plant "Pop" and go soft. It will make you a little sick to your stomach to be hurting your plant by pinching her so hard. Pinch hard - From both sides. It should be soft and pliable when you are done
5. Gently lower the cola onto the soft-tie support that you have pre-set. Wrap the soft tie around loosely so she is supported and also cannot escape (see pics)
6. If there is a long span between supercrop and support/restraint, set a bracing soft-tie at the mid point (to hold the mid point up! The plant will really try to curve to escape, often thrusting the midpoint down and increasing the angle of the supercrop. Best to brace against this.
7. Remember
   1. the plant will curl around the support so the distance between supercrop and support/restraint is what determines how much vertical you are taking off
   2. You can decide where the cola is going to grow. Where ever you set the support will become the new location of the cola

[Rangi]

What a great description - and explanation, Campesino! The corresponding pictures are very helpful.

Precise Words + Focused Pictures = Clear Understanding

TYVM!

[kkaazz2]

Thank you all so much for the input I better go to work now😁

[kkaazz2]

At another note the yellowing tips are also at the middle plant which is more than 40cm (16") away from light- couldn't be light burn there could it?

[Chefbjy]

Could very well be but that light is so close I wouldn't doubt it has something to do with yellowing. I thought the same thing about mine but 2 weeks later it was throughout the plant. As you can see it's not just the tips in pic 2. Harder to tell with the yellowlight though.

[Campesino]

Yes! I am not denying that there may also be light burn

But those tips, and the fact that they are occurring throughout the plant... I am sure that is related to EC. I am even more confident because his run-off EC is +400.

But I think we have a good read on the two issues - and I think they are both issues. Supercropping and adjusting fertigation should help a lot.

[Chefbjy]

Yes I agree poor ec combined with light burn no doubt things aren't going to look green until they are resolved resulting in poor yield or herming.

[kkaazz2]

So I measured EC in at 1150( been on that for last three weeks) and out measured at 1550!i have been watering morning and night with 1150, wondering why the EC is so high again after I flushed 3 weeks ago😲

[Campesino]

+400 is right on the edge. The first thing I would recommend is increasing frequency to 3x daily. If this is not possible, the second best option is to increase quantity of run-off per event. This just requires additional nutrient solution.
1150 is not too high for inflow, so I would try to avoid lowering inflow and just work on lowering run-off EC by doing one of the above.

[kkaazz2]

Perfect will do that thanks a mil

[kkaazz2]

Another question please, I was able to move lights up a bit so now about 15" between middle plants and 250w lights. Is that a good distance or will I get away with switching to 400w to hopefully increase bud growth or is the distance to short then for that heat,what's your opinion?

[Chefbjy]

250w hps closest is 10" and 400w is 12".

https://www.growweedeasy.com/how-far-grow-lights

[kkaazz2]

Thanks you 😉

[kkaazz2]

Hi guys it’s me again. Buds are growing fine but have been noticing yellowing tips,especially on upper foliage,not so much on lower new growth. Would could be causing it,any ideas? I am feeding the coco campesino nute guide and inflow EC is 1175 out 1400. I’m in the fourth week of flowering. Thanks for input

[kkaazz2]

Thanks for reply Campesino.Its not bad but on many upper leaves...what do you think?Cheers

[Rangi]

kkaazz2 , I had similar discolouration on middle/high-middle leaves during my last grow of White Shark in DWC. It might be hard to see in this pic, which has been colour corrected for HPS, but your description is very similar to what I was having going on.




These were clones I purchased from a Canadian Licensed Producer, who told me that this strain was a "light drinker." I didn't make the likely connection between the leaf issue and my overfeeding (EC too high ... I think Campesino pointed to this possibility earlier). Rather, being the noob that I am lol, I immediately started down a path attempting to identify and "correct" some deficiency. Here is the entry from my journal (on another site) that lays out the issue I was having:

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UPDATE: Nute Lockout??? ... End of Wk 3 Flower (End of Wk 4 of 12/12) Observations: - I noticed what I thought was some nutrient deficiency about 7-10 days ago ... there was also a very small amount of nute burn (see previous posts) - Mostly affecting middle growth ... tops of colas are fine; no problems I can see with roots - TDS at beginning of week was ~1400; after 3 days it was up to ~1550 - pH at beginning of week was 5.8 (nutes mixed well before install ... I went with 5.8 because I was noticing a trend of it moving upward and needing to be adjusted down after install) - pH was 6.3 after 1-2 days; brought it back down, and within 1 day it was back up to 6.3+ Assessment - I considered temperature, RH, air movement, and nute excesses/deficiencies, but in the end I think this is ... - Nute Lockout (which can be confused, apparently, with nute deficiencies by noobs like me!) - I also understand this needs to be corrected urgently, so ... Response - I dumped rez and replaced with 10 gal of RO + Clearex (@ 10 ml/gal = 100 ml), balanced to 5.9; TDS = 50 ppm - Circulated Clearex solution for 2 hours, as per directions. Hit the 20 min manual watering 3-4 times during the 2 hrs - At end of 2 hrs, TDS had risen to 320 ppm and seemed to be holding there - Dumped rez and replaced with 9 gal of RO + Sensi CalMag Xtra (1 ml/L) + Revive (2 ml/L), balanced to 5.8; TDS = 420 ppm Re-Assessment - TDS went from 420 to 450 over the past 24 hrs. I think that is good ... meaning there is no more excess salt to leach? - pH went to 6.3 after 12 hrs; brought it back down to 5.8 - after another 12 hrs it was back up to 6.2; brought it back down to 5.8 Plan??? - They're now starting Day 2 of the RO+ flush - Rez change is scheduled for tomorrow (Start of Wk 5 BCNL base nutes ... meaning decrease in N and increase in P-K - Concerned that pH continues to rise - Do another Clearex flush for 2 hrs??? - Use Flawless Finish instead for 2 hrs??? - Dump current RO+ and replace with fresh RO+ for the next 24 hrs prior to rez change tomorrow??? - Leave it as is, then do rez change tomorrow???

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Unfortunately, I didn't receive any suggestions/guidance for what to do from there. So, I moved forward assuming I was dealing with nute lockout, and looking back I think that I was. After doing the flushes described in that journal entry, I returned to the feed schedule @ 75% strength. Here are the next few relevant entries, so that you can see what I observed and what I did from here:

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UPDATE: Nutes UN-locked??! - Here are the Sharks a few days into Wk 4 Flower (Wk 5 of 12/12) - I think the 2-hr Clearex flush followed by 2-day RO flush have "unlocked" the plants ... no signs progressing leaf damage ... might have caught it just in time - The TDS has remained steady or even dropped a bit since I put in these Wk 5 nutes (@ 75% strength re lockout/flush) ... whereas over the last 2 weeks the TDS has been creeping up each day - Buds are starting to swell up a bit; getting frosty; smelling goooood!

UPDATE: Nearing End of Wk 4 Flower (Wk 5 of 12/12) - Sharks continuing to plump up and getting super sticky! - TDS was starting to creep up (not crazy, just 100-150 up from start of week) as they drank water during the week, so I added a few gal of RO + CalMag - pH seems ok ... letting it drift from 5.8 to 6.4 then I adjust it down (have done that once since start of week) - I may do another flush before installing Wk 6 nutes ... maybe just the RO + Clearex for 2 hrs ??

UPDATE: Start of Wk 5 Flower (Wk 6 of 12/12) - Did a 2-hour rinse with Clearex (10 ml/gal) + RO (ppm at start: 50; ppm at end: 250) - Then installed Wk 6 Nutes - Last week, I did the same but added a 24-hour RO+ flush after the Clearex rinse because I was responding to nute lockout - This week, I'm just doing the rinse as an extra caution ... although I think I might start doing this weekly with this strain - Buds starting to fatten up; Wonderful aroma; Incredibly sticky

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This was my first time growing this strain, and now I appreciate that 1250 is likely the upper end of what I should feed them. For the remainder of this grow, I did a 2-hr Clearex flush each week before installing the fresh nutes. I'm not sure that will be necessary if I feed properly from the start. Nonetheless, with my plants currently in veg (2 weeks post transplant from cloner), I decided to do a 2-hr flush before their last nute change. If I'm not seeing any issues, I think I'll do it every second week.

That grow really helped me SEE the connection between EC and pH. Once I got the EC in the range the plants wanted, the pH was stable and drifted slightly as desired.

[kkaazz2]

Thanks for reply EC outflow measures lower now so let’s see

[Rangi]

Cool. Just fyi, the discoloured leaves never returned to normal, but they didn't die prematurely and the discolouration didn't spread or worsen. Looking forward to your updates