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wHEN WILL IT BE TIME TO FEED AT 20%

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Latest photo! is it ready for feeding at 40%?
 

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Personally, I'd keep it at 25% until those cotyledons shrivel up a bit more. I think you'd be fine at 40% but keep an eye on those leaf tips for yellowing!
 
Light now off!. I run my 600 watt bulb 20+ hours each day, I hope the auto likes light. By the way, how long after a feed do you notice any plant changes? IE how long before you would notice burn in z DWC system?. I would imagine pretty fast as the roots sit in the water.
 
Well. two days now since my 40% feeding!. So far, everything looks ok to me. I guess at least for now I will keep everything at 40%. The only question is.... WHEN DO THE PLANTS GET BIGGER? I hope soon.
 
Since there is no buffer in dwc, the plant responds very quickly to changes. Usually within 30 min to an hour.

Mine always start growing like mad when the taproot hits the oxygenated water.
 
Since there is no buffer in dwc, the plant responds very quickly to changes. Usually within 30 min to an hour.

Mine always start growing like mad when the taproot hits the oxygenated water.
So, I guess I did not do harm then. I will however keep the feed amounts at 40%
 
When should someone change light bulbs on a grow? I am using a 600 watt MH bulb now but have the HPS bulb ready for use. Plants look good small and compact. I need them to reach the trellis so I can start to train them for colas! some leaf spotting on lower leaf I suspect a newt problem early on. The new growth looks ok? I guess the spotting could have been a PH problem early on (guess). All photos are auto plants.
 

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I wonder if the MH light is keeping these small?. Should I switch to HPS and maybe get some stretch?. The MH bulb is rated in the 6K area. These are all Autos the smallest one is called "Cheese" I picked up these seeds from Big Buda. The 3 larger ones are called "Critical Mass" also from Buda. These seeds were germinated Sep.14th Feeding is at 40% bottle recommendation, I use water between res. change. I see leaf damage on the extreme bottom leaf could be burn or heat related (guess) but new growth looks ok to me opinions?
 
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With photoperiod plants I would never recommend trying to intentionally stretch a plant out. I just don't see a reason to do it. If you properly trim/lolipop your plant, you shouldn't have any problems. Some strains do have a very dense, crowded type of structure. Maybe I can see that being a time to do it but even then I think it can be controlled from proper maintenance.

I don't know if this translates to auto flowers though. Seems to be a lot of inconsistency with autoflower strains in general. All the more reason to buy seeds from known autoflower breeders.
 
With photoperiod plants I would never recommend trying to intentionally stretch a plant out. I just don't see a reason to do it. If you properly trim/lolipop your plant, you shouldn't have any problems. Some strains do have a very dense, crowded type of structure. Maybe I can see that being a time to do it but even then I think it can be controlled from proper maintenance.

I don't know if this translates to auto flowers though. Seems to be a lot of inconsistency with autoflower strains in general. All the more reason to buy seeds from known autoflower breeders.

This is the medical strain I hope produces my needed medication!. These local dispencerys charge way too much!. I want my hard working spouse to be able to enjoy her retirement (long after I will be gone). They charge $200.00-$300 a ounce! and to me it is not top shelf!. I suspect shelf #2 at best!. I am SERVIRLY DISABLED and not long for this world. Cannabis has replaced about 80% of my pharma stuff. NOTHING WORKS BETTER!. My final years I hope 5 at least should be pain free for me. I have a state medical card (to cover my backside), but even the card cost way too much!. I hope for big changes before I am gone (I know don't hold my breath) LOL THE SEEDS ARE FROM BIG Buda I BELIEVE THEY ARE RATED OK. SO FAR 82% GERMANATION % NOT TOO BAD
 
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