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What is your biggest question about growing cannabis?

CCisme said:
Ok how do you make high thc and high cbd oil. Does cbd come out in say a coconut oil extraction? Or after making dry ice kief do/can you go back and run that through oil to remove cbd? Or am I misunderstanding the process (most likly option) I also have my oldest daughter at 18 wants to try a 1-1 for her adhd and anxiety, Neither of us wants her smoking lol so Edibles or caps.

thank you I love this thread!
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I understand it the way Stoney Tony described. Since both THC and CBD are soluble in most of the same things as each other (alcohol, oil, solvents, etc), I've never heard of a way that works at home to extract them separately. At least on a hobby scale, it seems like the main way to get high-CBD concentrates or edibles is by starting with high-CBD cannabis, and vice versa for high THC products. So, people usually grow separate high-THC and high-CBD strains if they want to be able to dose THC and CBD separately. From what I understand you need expensive equipment to isolate THC and CBD from each other.
 
NebulaHaze Thanks I was thinking that, then stumbled upon another series of articles meant to confuse i think lolol. So a dry ice wash would contain the thc and cbd in a strain high in both? Sorry I ask a lot of questions in weird hard to understand ways. lol That was my orginal plan was to grow a 1-1 or higher for her, so I'll just go back to that.
 
NebulaHaze , what micron bag do you typically use for the dry ice hash?
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Stoney Tony I'll usually go with just the 160 Micron bag, or possibly the 73 then the 160 if I want a separate pure pile.

The 25 Micron has the tiniest holes, which are the exact size of a trichome head. Because it only lets pure trichomes through, it gives you the purest stuff. But at least in practice I've found it's not that different than the purity you'd get from the 25 Micron bag, and you'll get far better yields with 73 Micron bag. They'll both give you a gorgeous gold colored hash.

If you want something more flavorful, the 120 or 160 Micron bags are good because they capture more of the green stuff. I feel like the effects are different, as well. I've found that above 160 Micron it doesn't really seem to add a whole lot to potency, but does incorporate a lot more inert green plant matter.

Here's a picture. The first one (left) shows the 73 Micron extract. Then I took the same bud and put it through the 160 (middle) and then I took what's left and made 220 (right). The 73 and 160 were good, but the 220 was meh. Now I just do the 120 (more pure) or 160 (more yield) Micron bags by themselves. I toss the rest after the one extraction. After doing it the first time for testing, I feel like there isn't a whole lot of benefit to putting the same cannabis through multiple bags unless you were just really trying to maximize yields.



Closeup of 73 Micron hash (most pure - just trichomes)



Closeup of 160 Micron Extract (more green matter, but still very high quality)



This is the 220 Micron dry ice hash



I personally thought the 220 Micron hash was just okay. Admittedly everything lower than 160 Micron had already been sifted out, but this didn't seem to have much potency on its own. It was extremely smelly and had a strong green taste. We ended up not using most of it.

Since then I've stuck with 160 Micron bags and smaller.
 
Yes, you've got it exactly! If your weed has high amounts of THC and CBD, your dry ice hash will also be high in both THC and CBD.

THC and CBD are both cannabinoids, which are a class of substances found both naturally in the cannabis plant as well as in the human body. Most cannabinoids tend to be soluble (bind to) the same materials (oil, alcohol and solvents), and are chemically a similar size (so you couldn't sift one out, for example), which makes it difficult to find ways to separate them.
 
Wow thank you very much nebula!!!! I really do appricate you doing that research and looking into that for me it's extreamly interesting thank u very much :) I will have to look into this further so I can learn how to do what those people did with the roses :) thank you nebula :). If u ever try purple maxx can u let me know how it worked for you
 
I wounder where u can buy delphinidin or F35H for a reasonable price and if so which. Delphinidin would u need I found 4 different Delphinidin 3-sambubioside. . Delphinidin 3-rutinoside Delphinidin chloride. Delphinidin 3-glucoside
 
i have a few big questions actually!

1. how should a feed schedule be for coco (ex. fed/water/fed or water/fed/water also with stump tea fed/water/stump or fed/stump/fed or fed/stump/water/fed)
2. PPM i understand how it works etc but ppm ranges ive heard as high as 1700ppms but normally 1200-1400 (this is what i would like to understand on how the range effects the plant)
3. what is the best method on keeping track of what plants have been fed or watered/ rotations or turning.
4. anyone ready to add in as a grower the tracking system that most states put in place? any programs that could be suggested and great to track plants with?
5. last question promise, best time and amount of co2 being used (roughly no understanding of c02 and how if effects growth, next project)
 
Hey r3,
3. I use the google app sheets to keep track of everything, can be shared with others if needed.
4. Oregon health department runs the tracking system here and they have a software all set up online for that, just go to the page and fill in numbers.
 
I have another question :-) What is the trigger for an auto to start to flower? Is it just time? Is it number of nodes the plant has formed? What phase the moon is in?
 
Well i think i just reported something!!! Im sorry 😐

I was excited cause I get to try this tonight!! I only have a 190 micron bag though. But ive been cooking with the green taste this whole time not gonna bother me now!
 
r3m1 said:
i have a few big questions actually!

1. how should a feed schedule be for coco (ex. fed/water/fed or water/fed/water also with stump tea fed/water/stump or fed/stump/fed or fed/stump/water/fed)
2. PPM i understand how it works etc but ppm ranges ive heard as high as 1700ppms but normally 1200-1400 (this is what i would like to understand on how the range effects the plant)
3. what is the best method on keeping track of what plants have been fed or watered/ rotations or turning.
4. anyone ready to add in as a grower the tracking system that most states put in place? any programs that could be suggested and great to track plants with?
5. last question promise, best time and amount of co2 being used (roughly no understanding of c02 and how if effects growth, next project)
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  1. This is the one I use: http://www.growweedeasy.com/sites/growweedeasy.com/files/coco-coir-flora-series-schedule.pdf
  2. It really depends on a lot of things. Lots of things add PPM, but not all of them will burn your plant. Imagine if I got dirt from outside and mixed it with water. It could measure as having 3000 PPM of "stuff" but it wouldn't have many nutrients in it so your plant could still get nutrient deficiencies. But with mineral nutrient sources, you can add 400 PPM and it will burn your plants. Say I start with 200 PPM water, and I add 400 PPM of mineral nutrients. If I add any more of that type of nutrients it will kill the plant, even though the total PPM is only 600. But I could still add worm castings or Silica, which would increase the PPM but are much less "powerful" with lower levels of things that can burn the plant. I've heard people talk about very high PPM numbers, and I assume they are using supplements which add lots of PPM to the water without adding actual nutrients that can burn your plant. All I can say is that, at least in hydro, I've never had my PPM higher than 600 or 700 without burning the plants. It seems like the lower the levels of plant nutrients in each additive, the more PPM of that bottle you could add. If in doubt, I highly recommend contacting the nutrient company through their website and ask about optimum PPMs with their nutrient system. I've found most nutrient companies get back to you really quickly and have helpful insider information!
  3. Every grower has their own method but at least for me I have a notebook that I hang from the wall of my grow room with a pencil attached, and I keep all my notes, dates and updates in that.
  4. I'm not familiar with any type of state-sponsored tracking system, do you have a link?
  5. CO2 is effective at getting faster vegetative growth when your plant is getting more light than it can use, for example under a 1000W HPS. Adding more CO2 to the air helps the plant use some of that extra light. In order for CO2 supplementation to be effective, you want to have relatively high concentrations of CO2 in the grow space. As far as when to use it, you only get benefits when the lights are on because the way it works is by helping the plant do photosynthesis. Without photosynthesis, extra CO2 doesn't really help, so there's no point in adding it at night :)
 
You can see this phenomenon in lots of peoples gardens. The Hydrangea plant will produce blue flowers in acidic soil (pH<5.5) and pink flowers in alkali soil (>6.5) And for pH ranges between 5.5 and 6.5 you get purple which is a mix of the blue and pink.
 
BuddMarsh said:
I have another question :-) What is the trigger for an auto to start to flower? Is it just time? Is it number of nodes the plant has formed? What phase the moon is in?
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This is a really great question! So mainly, it seems to be time. It seems like most auto-flowering plants start making buds around 3-4 weeks from seed. However, other things have an effect, so it's obviously more than just that. For example, if an auto-flowering plant is very stunted in the first few weeks of life, it usually takes a little longer to start flowering. So it sort of seems like the plant needs to be a certain size, or have at least a few nodes, before it will start flowering.

Similarly, if you put a photoperiod plant under a 12/12 light schedule from the beginning of its life, it won't start flowering until week 3-4, just like an auto-flower. Also, photoperiod male and female plants start putting out pre-flowers (smaller version of adult flowers) when they're around that same age. That seems to be the time when the plant fully "decides" its gender. So it almost seems like the plant does require some sort of minimum time of ~3 weeks before it will start flowering. I don't think I've seen a seedling of any strain start flowering much sooner than that in any situation.

Another thing that may affects auto-flowering schedules is the quality of light. I'm not sure what exactly causes it, but sometimes with certain LED grow lights, you'll get an auto-flowering strain that takes several weeks longer to finish flowering than that same strain being grown under fluorescent or HPS lights in the same conditions. It seems almost random, but I've spoken with a half dozen growers who have run into the slow-to-develop problem with auto-flowering strains under LED growth lights. Though there's tons of growers and models of LED that don't seem to have that problem, so it's hard to know if it's about the model of LED or the strain.

There are many non-cannabis types of plants that automatically start flowering after a certain time. In some cases, the temperature or humidity can cause them to take longer or shorter to start making flowers. For example, some plants need warm and humid temperatures before they start flowering. So it makes you wonder if cooler temps may be slowing down the flowering of auto-flowering strains. In fact, if LED grow lights are cool enough that they aren't keeping the grow space warm, maybe that's a factor in why some people have trouble with flowering autos under LEDs?

Another interesting thing to note is that if you have an auto-flowering plant that's auto'ed but is taking forever, you can give it a 12/12 light period to "hurry it along." So it seems like even the auto-flowering strains are somewhat responsive to light periods, even if it doesn't NEED a short-day to start flowering.
 
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