What's new
By:
GrowWeedEasy.com
You're browsing as a guest. Sign up to join the conversation, share your grows, and get help from thousands of fellow growers — it's free and takes less than a minute.

HELP! Temperature control?

I have my exhaust and other fan on full blast already and need to be able to get it cooler for the end of flower
 
AC Infinity fans come with either a manual speed control or a thermostatic control you can set for a target temperature. I started using Niwa controllers in each of my big tents. It is essentially a smart power strip that can control lights, water pumps, fans, heater, dehumidifiers, etc. and has a probe that keeps tabs on RH, temps and VPD and can also sense when the lights are actually on or not (a boon for those who still use HPS bulbs).

You may want to consider venting in outside air if it is possible to do so to help cool things down, otherwise you'll need to run an air conditioner in the lung room.
 
I don’t want to be that guy but your in-line fan is sending its heat load on out with the exhaust they are made to cool themselves…I have 6” variable speed fans and after having the same heat issues with them running on high or low I realized that between the extra equipment (ballasts, power strips, tents) and the tents exhaust pulling my conditioned air from all over the house to the lung room and sending it out the exhaust it caused the temperature of the lung room to raise 2-6 degrees. It can’t be cooler than where it’s pulling air from and it’s just pulling air so any heat introduced from the beginning is picked up.
 
Last edited:
So are you saying your venting into the same room? Or what are you saying your solution was to that exactly?
 
Yo dude, i think Going2fast is on the right track with the fact that the main issue is the light is likely too large for that tent - if it's 3ft by 3ft than even an 800W CFL would be unnecessary, let alone COBs - if you're struggling to keep it at 28°c with everything blowing then that's an issue - i would suspect that your extract fan is actually removing a load of heat already and if you turned all air systems off the temps would probably hit near 40°c. I can't see on your posts you specifically mention how hot lights are, though from description I'm assuming they are the source of heat issue??

I've never used any LEDs myself though from reading enough of other peoples issues i know COBs run hot as standard & 800W would be designed for use in a much larger area than 3ft x 3ft. Plus, if you bought some MiC special off Amazon, then their non-existent heatsinks & shitty drivers mean thermal output can go uncontrollably high. If it's a proper brand name, quality unit and it's burning hot then it's possibly component failure & needs replacing - It's not a great solution for right now I'm sorry to say, though i would agree different light unit would solve the whole issue going forward.

Secondly, i was just wondering about your room set-up and are you able to just have the window open during lights on period?? Not being a clown, but it did make me chuckle that you're having trouble cooling a room in the middle of a Canadian winter! Is it possible to insulate that room from the rest of the house and just let the temperature drop in that room via the open window? If you could, then it would allow you to just intake & extract into cold room, and naturally cool tent down too.

If not able to do this, and to answer your venting question above, yes you can intake & extract through same window, though try to space them apart from each other as much as possible and, if you can, tilt their opening faces away from each other just to avoid any hot extract air being accidentally sucked back in. Air from outside atm is going to be the coldest so i would say is best bet for combatting heat, though i think overall a new, less powerful/more thermally efficient light would save you even having to mess around with air extraction.
 
Last edited:
Outside air in/out was suggested to me by my local grow store owner , that’s how my tent is set up. I’m in central Ontario. In winter I add heat during dark period. I still run a CMH315 for heat during light period. I find by about 5-10 c outside temp this works well, it gets tougher from there. I use one small window for both in and out. it can barely fit 2 6” duct boots over/under It’s not ideal that close but it works for me
+1 AC infinity
 
Last edited:
Hey there, a fellow Canadian here. I think this was said above but if the air outside your tent is 23 the air inside will always be at least a little warmer without some type of cooling system regardless of the fan setup (a/c or swamp cooler). I think drawing in outside air for the tent in a Canadian winter will reverse your problem so that might not be practical unless you can partly warm it in the process but venting the heated air outside would help if you are not already doing so. If you can’t vent outside then be sure your tents air input and output are not too close and the door to the room is open so some of the heat will dissipate before the air is drawn back in. With that said I have grown in 28 degree heat and it is not impossible although some strains are better suited to it. I use HPS lighting so I probably have more heat to deal with than you do and my solution for three seasons is using the insulated grow room I built in my uninsulated garage (I am in the Toronto area). If you have an insulated garage, room in it for your tent and don’t regularly open the door to outside that might be an option, although given you are using LEDs not HPS you may then have the reverse problem, not enough heat. My room stays the perfect temp for three seasons except when the light is off, at which point the temp slowly drops. During the dark periods I have a low wattage heater on an inkbird temp sensor that will come on when the temp drops enough (similar to some of the other sensors described above). I set it to mimic a cool night which is good for bringing out the colour in plants. If you are not in a position to do any of this you may want to just explore venting your heated air outside, with the 23 degree internal air being drawn into the tent to keep it a little cooler rather than venting the heat into the same room and drawing it back into the tent. Re having a higher powered fan, if you are just drawing in the 23 degree air there is a point where it won’t matter a lot how fast the fan is set to run, and as gingerbeard suggested, the larger fan motor running hard will produce heat that will contribute to the problem - I rarely run my fan on a higher speed. Good luck!

edit: the post above from dagreenblazer has merit - if you can just crack a window to cool the room and leave the door closed to the rest of the house that would be an easy solution although you would have to monitor for snow drifts in your room if you get a good blow coming straight at the window 🙂
 
Last edited:
Sorry I’m still venting outside as I was I had to adjust the room for what I wanted in the tent mainly by cooling the room down more than I wanted in the tent and keeping as much excess heat from the house from being pulled in by the exhaust as I can.
 
Jeb, it's really quite simple.
If the tent is sealed, the heat generated by your light will slowly raise the temperature in that space.
It will also asphyxiate the plants as they consume all of the co2 in the tent.
The exhaust fan does both jobs.
You need an inlet at the bottom of the tent for fresh cool air to enter and then the fan blows/sucks the warm air from the top.
If your lung room where you are exhausting into is large enough to dissipate that heat, then it'll be fine.
If the room where your tent is located is small, then you will need to exhaust the heat from the tent into another area.
 
I use two 65W led arrays in my 30"x30"x60" and they are a bit overkill towards the end. 800ws is ridiculous in that area. 35w per sq ft is the norm I think.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top