Reservoir temperatures

[Vortex]

Reservoir temperatures: Not much has been said, that I have seen, on reservoir temperatures in DWC/hydro systems. Carefully monitoring the temps inside the reservoir has been one of the success in this grow. I believe just as important as Ph balances, the temperature of the water is a big factor for me. I run LED and T5, Co2 so a lot is going on inside the box. I have found, through trial and error, that if the temperature goes over a particular number, in my case 75 degrees, I begin to get a brownish snot-like substance on my air stones, which cuts effectiveness of the bubbles. Also, it throws the entire environment into one hot mess. To rectify the problem, I keep the temperature at an optimum number of 70 degrees + or - 3 degrees. The results are pristine water, clean air stones, and very perky leaves. Last night that number got to 75 and the snot began to develop. This morning the temperature was 72 and beautiful. I went to Walmart and purchased blue ice packs that go into camping coolers. I change out two-three times, especially before I put the girls to bed, knowing that the ice packs have to keep the water cool for 12 hours. It has been working beautifully. Combined to LST and defol strategies, the girls are looking great and will be ready in about 8 days. ​

 

[DW2]

Howdy Vortex, I keep the reservoir temperature between 64° F and 69° F by using .7 liter ice bottles. I also wrap the totes with bubble wrap to provide insulation from the ambient air temperature. The bottles can last for up to six hours (depending on the ambient temperature and the amount of foliage (shades the top of the reservoirs)). Just a important as the temperature to keep down the brown algae growth is keeping the water well aerated and blocking out all possible light leaks.

 

[Vortex]

Thanks for the bubble wrap idea. In a reservoir of 6 gallons, how do you think the bubble wrap would hold up?

 

[alltatup]

I use chillers attached to two grow boxes. Before I had the chillers and when I was using HID bulbs, I got a really bad case of root rot. Haven't seen it since, and I hope I never see it again. But at least I'd know what to do (and like DW2 says, make sure there are no light leaks).

I switched from HID to LED and that significantly lowered the temps in the grow room. I keep my reservoir temp around 70 degrees. No slime is good slime!!!

 

[Vortex]

Excellent news! I was intuited with my temps that I use, it is good to know my intuition was in line with the experts. I always thought that the snot-like substance was primarily b/c of low Ph. Past experience had shown me that. However, I went to check on them b/4 lights out. I saw some snot beginning on the air pump. Looking at air stones same thing. I quickly looked at the Ph and it was solid at the number I have had it all grow, so I knew that Ph wasn't the culprit. Looking at the temp it was 75 degrees. Ice before the lights went out cured it. Next morning 72 degrees and clear.

 

[Vortex]

I see you are a part of the BCNL tribe. Cool. Thinking that mid August will be the time I will purchase a second Bloombox. It hasn't always been fun. But experiences learned have taught a lot. GWE sure is a cosmic-send. Where were they when the BOX was delivered? Rock on.

 

[DW2]

I have had the bubble wrap (the large bubbles) last for two grows (so far), it just depends on how one installs it and careful handling when cleaning up after a grow. It may sound 'anal' to say to put the bubble side towards the reservoir, but thru experience, the smooth side out does provide better insulation. I use layers of reflective (silver) duct tape on the tops of the reservoirs and aluminum foil over the Hydrotron pebbles (with a small hole in the center for the sprout) to reflect the heat and light back up to the plants.