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Ppm 3300

If your plants are doing fine and you are check runoff for a problem then most likely you're going to just create one.

First rule in soil grows is No runoff! only allow water to saturate the pot and what does come out the bottom if any gets sucked back up into the pot within a few hours. People get this mixed up when they see coco growers talking about 20% runoff and check ph and ppm's. Coco is a soilless medium treated like hydroponic with everything needing to be added , soil has what it's needs for a duration if not the whole grow and just needs proper watering practice and maintenance.

With new soil creating runoff to test is just wash away nutes and my first thought is that it is why you have a higher ppm number, you are losing nutrient that haven't been access yet or used by the plant and they are going to be missed later. Pots should be wateed to the size of the plant and not the whole pot untill it time.

How old are your plant?what size pots? What are your watering practices? Should have been the first questions ask here.

Checking runoff in soil is a not very reliable to me, there is too many variables that will cause the number to change from input to output and that is why I have moved away for asking soil growers, especially if they are new ones to check runoff. If you are feed in the proper range (6.2 to 6.8) that is good enough unless you have a visible plant problem showing.

To get a ball park figure on soil PH with runoff add the input number to the output number and divide by 2.
Input 7ph + output 5ph = 12 ÷ 2 = 6ph roughly.
If the total number is out of range (6.7 to 6.8ph soils optimal number) more then 1. Then you have the start of a problem, negative is the most common from lock out or deficiency.

Water in at 7ish is going to most likely cause you problems down the road and should be lowered to 6.5ish. In soil, input water at out of range will cause lockout and toxicity over time when corrected usually showing in the plant when they start to flower. looking at your input number being 7ish? and output number being 5ish? Its possible you're heading to lockout, this is why you are feed soil with minimal burn and just adding to the high output of ppm's with a healthy looking plant, add this together and I can see why ppm's are 3000ish. This is micro managing problems before they happen that would be best solved by proper watering practice alone but seens we are on this subject we'll "hash" it out a little farther.

With a Slurry test take 3 samples because the Ph around the pot (upper, middle, lower) will very. The best place to take is in the middle of the root ball for all of them, add all those test numbers together then divide by 3.

6.4 + 6.8 + 6.1 = 19.3 ÷ 3 = 6.43333 Ph

PH is way overly thought in my opinion especially in soil, just adjust the water to the soil in the proper range, 7ish isn't it, you should water to a little runoff for two or three times to get the ph back and sone of that liquid nutrient out then stop water to runoff completely and cross your fingers you dont needing a flush and the feeding of liquid nutrients thereafter.
With ppm's just check what's going in if at all, watch what you're plant are doing and if, I repeat "if" they show signs of deficiencies or toxicity then it's time to start investigating.

Again there are 101 way of growing cannabis and each person can have a different experience and different opinions. This is just what works for me.
No runoff test for soil. K.I.S.S.
 
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So I just dont want to burn my plants right? Give them as much as they can handle without giving to much?
I just want to learn as much as I can. By reading and doing or trying, asking and listening. Shit like that. This is my 5th grow so in learning. I just now got a ppm meter and all my grows have been good so far so I guess its unnecessary but I want to learn and do my best to get my best ya dig?
 
I hear ya hobbit, you just happened to start a very good and informative conversation on the topic. I'm loving the input from everyone, my mind certainly isn't made up and I'm here to learn and share experience just like everyone else.
 
To get a ball park figure on soil PH with runoff add the input number to the output number and divide by 2.
Input 7ph + output 5ph = 12 ÷ 2 = 6ph roughly.
If the total number is out of range (6.7 to 6.8ph soils optimal number) more then 1. Then you have the start of a problem, negative is the most common from lock out or deficiency.
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I agree with some of the things you said, disagree with a few other things, but thank you for making me think. You've actually given me a good experiment with the above. I don't know where you pulled the formula from, but I'd be interested if you had a source.

From your notes, I can do a pour through and then do a slurry test and those two should provide proof in concept to your above theory. Interesting and worth a look.
 
My two cents.... I think you are mixing two different things and you are concerned about numbers that mean something different than you think they mean. Ppm just measures how much dissolved solids are in water. No matter what you put in water it will change the reading. Ppm doesn't just measure liquid nutrients you put in unless you test the water and nutes mix only. Once you put the water into the soil it is going to measure everything that dissolves in water not just your fertilizer. If you test a glass of tap water and you put a pinch of salt, or flour, sugar anything in it it will change your reading. I'm thinking that you are wanting to test ph level and you have confused it with ppm. Hope this helps man, nobody here is against you we all mean well. There's just so much to do with growing that is controversial and once it's triggered it's on. Be well and good luck
 
Nice post mr furley thats morre or less what i do so u just justified what i doing only thing i sometimes do is just give it a bit of a flush every so often just incase salt build up at start i was measuring ppm in and out and they were so high but plant was fine it was just doing my head in so stopped and had no problems thank mate
 
I agree we disagree and that's OK in my book, learning and thinking is why we all powwow. I believe to truly understand something one must experience first hand so don't let me stop anybody from dipping there meters wherever they'd like.

The formula was mentioned on this forum a couple years back by a trusted grower and it got me thinking as well so I started digging (pun intended) and went down the runoff rabbit hole with soil, in the end my personal conclusion was you had to many variables for an accurate reading unless you have multiple meticulous controls and even then with the nature of soil and what is happening inside without help makes runoff too inconsistent and harmful to routinely practice for adjustment vs. actual root zone numbers and plants needs. Even multiple labs testing the samples can come back different from each other and against your own results, it just became a waste of time with no definitive answer taking focus away from looking at the plants health for its needs, not growing but chase numbers.

At the end of it, Last year I threw away my Tds meter( it was a junker and im thinking about buying a new, oh the irony), filled a pot with amended soil from the garden, stuck a non-keeper mother from the winter in a pot outdoors, water with non PHed well water, molasses with no run off and grew a great plant with no hassle and no checking, after all the notes and time spent before hand this shut the door for me on the practicality of runoff and soil.

I look forward to your notes and I am intrigued on where you're going with this, always interested in others finding and opinions, more then happy to discuss it further but im pretty confident that a average from a fluctuating range with a forgiveness Zone is the best it gets, maybe I missed something.

Good luck.
 
I wish there was a way to like that post.

Your knowledge shows and we likely have both asked ourselves the same questions in trying to find an answer, if there is one. I'm on board with your personal conclusion, variables are unknown within the soil chemistry and they will effect the run-off data, how, we don't know. Thats the problem. I look forward to running that test mentioned, but I'm unsure if that will sway me one way or the other to run-off testing efficacy. I guess my tests and quest would be to answer questions about how certain brands work best and the most efficient Ph to maximize potential.

My advice of recommending this to people who post help questions and they have a nutrient issue, I look at it as if the run-off could be an aid to know if you need to correct a nutrient deficiency or if you need to correct a Ph issue causing lock-out of the nutrient. If my run-off was near input level, I would attack the problem as a deficiency and feed the nutrient needed. If the run-off came out super acidic, I would try and adjust soil Ph, after confirming with a slurry test.

Regardless, thank you for the conversation. Agreeing to disagree is an important part of life.
 
This is the reason I have gone to an all organic living soil. I haven't checked the ph of anything in nearly two months I put a charcoal filter on my bathtub faucet with a standard water hose and water my plants straight from that. I mix a jug of potassium silicate and aloe once a week and I don't even ph that. I'm sure now that I bragged about it I'll have invoked the curse and I will have a problem when I go wake the girls in awhile lol. Unless I don't like the end results of this grow I will never go back to salt based nutes and so far so good 🌲😎
 
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