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Pictures please help
- Thread starter Alien3000
- Start date
Campesino
Banned
Hi Alien3000
Coco?
I think we may have spoken elsewhere?
It looks like you are having problems with un-buffered Coco. The only way to solve these issues is to work on buffering the coco with Ca. Unfortunately, this will produce sub-optimal nutrient conditions for the plant in the mean time. You can't just solve the plant's issues - you have to fix the medium first.
Tell me whatever you can about the coco. Did it come as a prepared product or did you re-hydrate a brick? If brick, let me know how you prepared it. Also, need to know what you are giving the plant for Ca and Mg. Finally, what size containers, and how long have the plants been in them?
With that info, I will try to give you the best course of action to get your coco and plant on the road to recovery
Cheers
Coco?
I think we may have spoken elsewhere?
It looks like you are having problems with un-buffered Coco. The only way to solve these issues is to work on buffering the coco with Ca. Unfortunately, this will produce sub-optimal nutrient conditions for the plant in the mean time. You can't just solve the plant's issues - you have to fix the medium first.
Tell me whatever you can about the coco. Did it come as a prepared product or did you re-hydrate a brick? If brick, let me know how you prepared it. Also, need to know what you are giving the plant for Ca and Mg. Finally, what size containers, and how long have the plants been in them?
With that info, I will try to give you the best course of action to get your coco and plant on the road to recovery
Cheers
Campesino
Banned
The risky course of action would be to transplant again into buffered Coco. It sounds like your coco may cause a lot of problems and this could fix them. BUT, you could seriously injure the plant if you don't do it well.
You are giving 10ml/gallon of CalMag? Is that GH "CaliMagic"? In all water? I am confused there, please clarify.
You are giving 10ml/gallon of CalMag? Is that GH "CaliMagic"? In all water? I am confused there, please clarify.
Campesino
Banned
To prepare brick coco:
Cheers
- Re-hydrate in tap water
- Rinse through a screen to remove coco peat (dust size particles). This also starts to remove NaCL
- Buffer rinsed Coco in Cal/Mag (see below)
- Prepare buffering solution: Tap water with full dose of Cal Mag (125% dose is fine)
- Place Coco in a fabric pot - and then place that into a bucket.
- Soak Coco in buffering solution for 8+ hours
- Raise fabric pot and allow to drain - dump bucket
- Soak again in fresh buffering solution for 8+ hours
Cheers
Last edited:
Campesino
Banned
Yes. You can try to buffer in place.
It sounded like you are already giving a pretty heavy dose... Don't go crazy because that will cause other problems.
If you give enough Ca long enough then the buffer will be established. As the buffer is being established the colloids in Coco are taking Ca and Mg and releasing K. Other nutrients can also get caught up in the CEC, but they will eventually be replaced with Ca and the Coco will be stable and buffered. You can expect a few nutrient issues to emerge during this period, but the plant should be able to survive and once the Colloids are satisfied with Ca the plant can resume normal growth in an appropriate nutrient element ratio.
It sounded like you are already giving a pretty heavy dose... Don't go crazy because that will cause other problems.
If you give enough Ca long enough then the buffer will be established. As the buffer is being established the colloids in Coco are taking Ca and Mg and releasing K. Other nutrients can also get caught up in the CEC, but they will eventually be replaced with Ca and the Coco will be stable and buffered. You can expect a few nutrient issues to emerge during this period, but the plant should be able to survive and once the Colloids are satisfied with Ca the plant can resume normal growth in an appropriate nutrient element ratio.
Campesino
Banned
OK,
I recommend the following fertigation strategy. I also recommend that you measure EC or PPM to be able to follow my directions so work on getting a meter.
1. Fertigate daily: The pots are too big to do more than that yet, but they should be able to handle 1x per day without over-watering issues. It is important to fertigate daily to maintain high levels of Ca in the nutrient solution.
2. Fertigate always: all water that you add should have the proper blend of nutrients (including Cal Mag!).
3. Give a strong dose of Cal Mag, (at least full strength).
4. Don't burn your plants with high EC. You can probably get away with 1.6 (1600) as inflow with 1x daily fertigation at this stage. You are going to run a little hot to keep cal mag high, but you need to be careful to not burn them. You should track both inflow and run-off EC and I would try to keep them 1600 in and 1800 out. I explain how to manage run-off EC in my guide. If you cannot yet measure EC, you can still proceed, but it will be helpful to be able to set those values and track them. In either case, you should watch for tip burn. Tip burn is a sign of high EC - it is not related to other nutrient issues that may occur during this process. So if you see tip burn you should lower EC (concentration of nutrients) but don't lower Cal Mag!
I hope this helps!
I recommend the following fertigation strategy. I also recommend that you measure EC or PPM to be able to follow my directions so work on getting a meter.
1. Fertigate daily: The pots are too big to do more than that yet, but they should be able to handle 1x per day without over-watering issues. It is important to fertigate daily to maintain high levels of Ca in the nutrient solution.
2. Fertigate always: all water that you add should have the proper blend of nutrients (including Cal Mag!).
3. Give a strong dose of Cal Mag, (at least full strength).
4. Don't burn your plants with high EC. You can probably get away with 1.6 (1600) as inflow with 1x daily fertigation at this stage. You are going to run a little hot to keep cal mag high, but you need to be careful to not burn them. You should track both inflow and run-off EC and I would try to keep them 1600 in and 1800 out. I explain how to manage run-off EC in my guide. If you cannot yet measure EC, you can still proceed, but it will be helpful to be able to set those values and track them. In either case, you should watch for tip burn. Tip burn is a sign of high EC - it is not related to other nutrient issues that may occur during this process. So if you see tip burn you should lower EC (concentration of nutrients) but don't lower Cal Mag!
I hope this helps!
Really i dont know what i should say your ate amaZin dude by the way i am using 5 pot gallon my plant is 7 weeks old veg and 43 cm tall ... but i have something i was in 3 gallon pot with perlite and peatmoss and i transplented to coco coir 5 gallon i mean by that that am still have some soil in my pot just to tell me if i can do anything deffrient .... but if not i will do what you just tell me ..
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Campesino
Banned
1x is one time.
The peat can cause drainage issues. Is there 3 gallons of peat and only 2 gallons of Coco? What do you think the ratio is?
I'd say you can still fertigate 1x daily, but I'd start there and see how they do. Try to apply the water only/primarily to the coco at the edges of the pot, and water slowly.
The peat can cause drainage issues. Is there 3 gallons of peat and only 2 gallons of Coco? What do you think the ratio is?
I'd say you can still fertigate 1x daily, but I'd start there and see how they do. Try to apply the water only/primarily to the coco at the edges of the pot, and water slowly.
Campesino
Banned
You're welcome - I'll be here...
I am a little concerned about drainage with that much peat. It sounds like you have a good amount of perlite too, which will help. If the peat is really holding moisture you may drown the roots. Coco won't do that, but peat sure can. So proceed with caution.
In response to above,
Inflow PPM is not the only factor to consider with tip burn. What is really important is the PPM or EC that is in the nutrient solution suspended in the media. Inflow EC, evaporation, and accumulated salt deposits can all impact the EC that is in the "root zone". Run-off EC is a better measure of what is actually available to the plant. So you are really using inflow EC as one factor to manage run-off EC. Run-off EC is what counts.
EC and PPM are different measures of the same thing (for all intents and purposes here)
I am a little concerned about drainage with that much peat. It sounds like you have a good amount of perlite too, which will help. If the peat is really holding moisture you may drown the roots. Coco won't do that, but peat sure can. So proceed with caution.
In response to above,
Inflow PPM is not the only factor to consider with tip burn. What is really important is the PPM or EC that is in the nutrient solution suspended in the media. Inflow EC, evaporation, and accumulated salt deposits can all impact the EC that is in the "root zone". Run-off EC is a better measure of what is actually available to the plant. So you are really using inflow EC as one factor to manage run-off EC. Run-off EC is what counts.
EC and PPM are different measures of the same thing (for all intents and purposes here)