What's new
GrowWeedEasy.com
You're browsing as a guest. Sign up to join the conversation, share your grows, and get help from thousands of fellow growers — it's free and takes less than a minute.

HYDRO Orca microbes

Rj420

New member
It’s my first grow. It’s a dwc system with two 5gal buckets. I’m trying to figure out what nutrients I need to get started. I’m trying to start as cheap as possible. I’m using advanced nutrients ph perfect. The guy at the Hydro store also suggested that I get orca. Is it necessary to have a good microbe to start? Or should I wait and see if I have a algae issue?
 
Microbes are good for terpene production.
If you are going with AN, don’t expect anything to come cheap. They are one of the most expensive nutrients on the market.
 
I went with advanced nutrients ph perfect so I didn’t have to worry about checking the water ph. Orca is a good bacteria introduced into the reservoir to prevent algae. I just don’t know if I should worry about algae until (if) I have a problem. I wanted to know if I have a algae problem, can it be fixed, or if I need to start over?
 
Algae won’t grow unless you have a light leak. Make it dark and Algae goes away with no harm.
Can’t fix the light leak and the problem gets worse over time.
 
I have seen pictures where people cover the whole nest basket with foil and leave only a slit for the stem to come through.
 
That’s one way...but I assume those people put too little hydrogen in the basket. It’s all about proper technique.
I put a thin layer of hydrogen when the plant is small. I add more layers slowly as the plant grows. By the time the plant has matured, the basket is full and no light penetration into the reservoir.
 
[No message]
 

Attachments

  • photo83597.jpg
    photo83597.jpg
    2.6 MB · Views: 1
Right on. If you can get the air pump out of the room...so it brings cooler air and pushes it into the buckets. Warm grow room air in the water can cause issues.
the water temps should stay cool. Trying to keep under 70 but never letting go above 72 for best dissolved oxygen content in the water.
 
Rj420 I find it easier to manage a sterile setup, than a biome. If you want to keep it inexpensive, use a basic feeding program, manage your temps and pH and you'll have a lot of fun.

These are growing in G.H. Maxi Series with a B vitamin ... it doesn't get cheaper than that.

20190725_202922[1].jpg
 
Should my baskets be totally under water or should I have an air gap. It’s a 6in basket on a 5gal bucket, the basket is about 6in deep. I just got some OG-18 clones.
 
I guess with the bigger baskets, the bottom is a poor reference. I use the bottom of an empty basket as a watering gauge in my tubs...two rows of holes is almost exactly a gallon of top-up, and my air gap is minimal.
 
Toker1 ... 2 1/2" to 3" of air gap at the top of my rez. For my previous few grows I was starting my clones in 2" net pots and then burying them in a 3 1/2". The last time, I cut the flanges of the 2" net pots and used them to hold the neoprene pucks in the cloner pail, then when I moved them up to larger rez, I took them out of the 2" rings and put them in the 3 1/2" so that the air roots were still in the air and the wetted roots are still in the solution. I'm always trying to minimize any root die back, because it fouls up the rez.

Maybe I worry too much about all those fine hairs that fall off the upper part of the root ball before the first nute change. One more thing to experiment with.
 
I’m getting yellowing around the edges of my bottom leaves. Im using advanced nutrients ph perfect at 1/4 strength. Everything thing says either nutrient burn or the ph is off. I don’t think it’s nutrient burn because the amount I’m using. Does ph perfect still need to be checked? It’s supposed to regulate itself. I’m using 5gal buckets for dwc. Any suggestions?
 
Is it ok to adjust the ph in the reservoir while the plants are in it or should I start with new water and change the reservoir?
 
I would say if you are running into problems then yes i would check the ph. If that is fine it could be a deficiency meaning you need more nutes. Ive never used AN ph perfect so im not sure on how well it keeps the ph in check but sometimes things happen and im sure every once and a while your ph might get out of whack. My rule is if i see issues with my plant i first check the ph to make sure that my plant is able to absorb nutrients. if thats not the issue then i check nute strength ect.

As far as the roots go, in my dwc i start off with the bucket about an half an inch inside the water while the roots are growing. when i see that roots are coming out the bottom of the basket is when i begin to give some space between the water and the basket. Alternatively, you could also leave the gap and hand water the seed (for me its a rapid rooter). The only problem with leaving the basket in too much water is your grow medium could be too wet so if you do submerge partially the bucket dont leave it in too much water. Its a fine balance IMO. Basically you want to make sure the rockwool or rapid rooter stays moist but isnt soaked.
 
I wouldn’t go crazy on it, but yes...small changes (less than a differential of 1) to PH are ok directly inside the reservoir.
You should be changing the water out anyway every 2 weeks or so. If PH changes you are speaking of are greater than + - 1 just do a reservoir change.
 
Back
Top