OK, I'm an idiot...

[WeirdWiredWolf]

I could just kick myself right now. After finally getting a GenHydro PH kit, I tested my nute solution...waaayyyy too acidic (I think that's my bad, I mixed the most recent batch using distilled water). Corrected that, or close enough. This should fix most of what's been going wrong, I got rid of the burnt leaves and am going to wait to flip to 12/12 until a week or so of no new issues.

Next I tested the tap water that I normally use....way too alkaline. So that needs to be fixed too. A soil PH test on the Ocean Forest also came back too alkaline...that doesn't seem right, but the alkaline water I was using could explain it.

I also took a clone of my older plant; I had to prune her back some anyway and just for shits and grins decided to see if it would work this time. The clone is in plain Black Gold potting soil with the liquid nutes and seems to be doing okay; a bit spindly, but I didn't trim the clone back too much as it did have a couple existing bud sites and I wanted to save those.

The upside to flowering in the winter is, humidity shouldn't be too much of a problem (RH in the apartment right now is ~40%). Downside is due to the size of my tent and the fact that I didn't do any decent training, I can only have one in there at a time.

 

[NebulaHaze]

Most nutrients will change your pH. It's important to add all nutrients and supplements to the water first, and then adjust the pH after. If the pH is too high or too low at the roots, you will see nutrient deficiencies. If you're putting water in at the correct pH but the runoff water pH is still coming out too high, you want to water at a lower pH until it starts coming out the correct reading (and vice versa). In soil the pH should be between 6-7. That means if you're mixing your nutrient water within that range but it's coming out higher, you should water at 6 pH until it starts coming out closer to what you put in.