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Nutrient questions

oconnorjoy

New member
2BABEECB-0016-4E3B-8EDC-1066CBF6CDE8.jpeg I am trying a grow in 10 gal fabric pots after reading your article on using larger pots. My plants are Zkittlez Auto Fem and are in their third week. I started by using reverse osmosis water, but have decided to go to tap water because of how much I am using with the 10 gallon pots. I let it sit for 24 hours.
Questions
1. do I still need to add the CALiMAGic to my water? I have been adding 1/4 tsp per gallon.
2. Hubby brought home some Gaia Green Super Fly Insect Frass and said I should be sprinkling a teaspoon around the soil every two weeks...is that right? (Personally I think it smells like crap so I avoid it like the plague)
 
If you have an EC/TDS meter, test your tap water. If it's pretty soft, say <100 TDS then keep adding CalMag. I use my city's tap water after getting the chlorine filtered out because it has just about the right amount of calcium and other trace elements already dissolved in it.
 
What's in the potting mix you're using? More than likely it will already have everything the plant will need for a number of weeks. As far as the dead soldier fly fertilizer, it stinks because its primary component is decaying flies. If you're growing indoors I would personally avoid it or mix it with more compost. The plants look healthy so far, so something has to be right. I tend to lean toward the side of caution and not mess with nutrients if everything is going well. As UndergroundFarmer says, "test your tap water". If you don't have the means to test it yourself, then you can more than likely find the info on your water supplier's website.
 
A ppm/ec meter is 15 bucks and will help you so much. If you want optimal growth. You need to realize each plant will have different needs and levels of nutrients. Example. I just grew a Ripley's OG and it could gobble up 2400ppm plus and never miss a beat. But I have others that will stress and burn at 1000ppm
 
Thank you for your replies! I checked and we have very hard water so I cut out the cal/mag for now. I used Supersoil which is supposed to have the nutrients required...thinking I may want to use something for the flowering stage (they have a product called 'Bloom' at my grow shop that I may try. My question now is regarding the lights. we have 700 Watt LED's and there are two buttons - one that says 'grow' and the other 'bloom' According to the light manual, I am supposed to have both on for the flowering stage. Does that hold true for auto's?
My babies are 4 weeks, 3 days here They are in 10 gallon pots *first time using the larger ones
 

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Yes yes use both switches. Those are very big pots for autos but it's better than too small. Are those lights 700watts from the wall?
 
yes...they are plugged into the wall...I think that is what you are asking. They came as a part of our tent setup.
Why would the pots be too big? The plants seem to be doing very well?
 
Hey, your ladies are looking pretty good IMO. SoOrbudgal 's question is about true watts from the wall. Light manufacturers use some fabricated number to sell. The amount of power your lights actually use we refer to as actual draw from the wall. Hopefully it will be stamped on a little plate on the light or maybe on the package which will say things like 110 volts, 75 watts, etc. This is an important number because 4 plants really need about 300 watts actual draw. Light is your plants food. The nutrients from your medium are like vitamins. For example my lights claim to be 1000 watt equivalent (BS) but actual true draw is 98 watts so I have 3 side by side over my plants. As I always say to new folk besides WELCOME; lighting and a 1000 other important things are covered in the tutorials and articles on the main site so I encourage you to read and review all you can there and then we can try to help with further questions. Good Growing!
 
Oh your pots are fine it's just that they are big for auto flowers, those are great for larger photo period plants. That's all i'm saying you'll understand more as you see these other growers what they use are 5gal down to 3gal for auto flower but yours are fine like i say big is better than too small when your first starting out you won't run into issues with root bound. Anyhoo.......true watts from the wall is what i'm asking. Find out the brand of light look up true watts from the wall. Seller could say 1000watts but only draw 100watts from the wall not enough for all those plants. They are doing well for now but as they grow you'll notice whimpy branches.
 
Well oconnorjoy same here.....i began indoor growing 4years ago and have learned EVERYTHING about it on this website. I have grow outdoors here in Oregon over 35yrs so that's all i knew but wanted more of a winter indoor hobby so i learned about it here on GWE. I got 2 tents now good lights all i need after years of experimenting doing it the way I want to and taking lots of information from other growers. My setup works for me as you will work your setup best for you. All i can say is gotta have really good strong lights understand how they work, a room/tent understand ventillation how much you need to keep enviornment air moving. Hey theres alot to absorb and this hobby is very addicting don't have to spend $$$$$$ just keep asking questions i'd be glad to help as many others here will also. We start with shitty grows first off but learn by them........then they become magic and homegrown indoor done well.......sheeesh screw buying it anymore your gonna have sooo many " new friends " saying " you grew this.....holy shit "
 
SoOrbudgal....I can’t wait for that “Holy shit, you grew this” moment 😀
I’m so thankful I found this site....it is teaching me so much and you are all so helpful. My favourite morning now is Sunday when I pour a coffee and bring up the newsletter. I want to try photo period plants next and try training them.
 
Hi, you did good by starting with autos. You'll love it when you can start smoking your own grown. Best wishes for a hassle-free large yielding harvest!
 
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