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AGH
New member
When it comes to N, I use urine at the 10:1 ratio. But I also don't use synthetic nutes and don't take any medication (good on you being aware that could harm your girls!).
A couple things to remember about Nitrogen:
- It's going to affect the lower leaves first since it's a mobile nutrient and the plant will 'cannibalize' itself if it's short on N.
- In flower, you really shouldn't need to add much, if any N since your plants need significantly less of it in flowering. If it's not too bad, leave it be and when you run those genetics the next time, make sure to provide some extra N during veg. Too much N in flower can affect the taste of the buds and may lock out other nutrients the plant actually needs since N is like candy bars to cannabis plants and they'll take in as much of it as they can.
- Those pink stems could be a normal characteristic of your genetics. If you know what strain you're growing, you can do some research and find out.
- The pattern of chlorosis on the leaves that have been picked off looks like it MIGHT be N deficiency, but it also looks like it might be light stress. It almost looks like another leaf was covering parts of the leaves that you removed and the part that was covered remained green and the part exposed to too much light turned yellow. If those leaves came off from the upper part of the canopy, that could be it. If they came off the lowest part of the plant, not likely light stress.
My suggestion: if it's not progressing, leave it be and make adjustments on your next grow. If it is progressing, is it starting at the bottom of the plant? If so, it could be N, if not, it's probably not N. Regardless, just be cautious of adding too much N at this stage. Afterall, nothing good happens quickly when it comes to growing cannabis!
And be proud - overall, your plants look very happy!
A couple things to remember about Nitrogen:
- It's going to affect the lower leaves first since it's a mobile nutrient and the plant will 'cannibalize' itself if it's short on N.
- In flower, you really shouldn't need to add much, if any N since your plants need significantly less of it in flowering. If it's not too bad, leave it be and when you run those genetics the next time, make sure to provide some extra N during veg. Too much N in flower can affect the taste of the buds and may lock out other nutrients the plant actually needs since N is like candy bars to cannabis plants and they'll take in as much of it as they can.
- Those pink stems could be a normal characteristic of your genetics. If you know what strain you're growing, you can do some research and find out.
- The pattern of chlorosis on the leaves that have been picked off looks like it MIGHT be N deficiency, but it also looks like it might be light stress. It almost looks like another leaf was covering parts of the leaves that you removed and the part that was covered remained green and the part exposed to too much light turned yellow. If those leaves came off from the upper part of the canopy, that could be it. If they came off the lowest part of the plant, not likely light stress.
My suggestion: if it's not progressing, leave it be and make adjustments on your next grow. If it is progressing, is it starting at the bottom of the plant? If so, it could be N, if not, it's probably not N. Regardless, just be cautious of adding too much N at this stage. Afterall, nothing good happens quickly when it comes to growing cannabis!
And be proud - overall, your plants look very happy!
Mr.furley
Well-known member
The P/K is recommended for one week only at the third to forth week of flower which, by the look of your developing bud was last week to this.
If you are using the Canna line, Nitrogen is in the A and b base. Are you out? Will get back to the light but for now let make sure you are running nutrients correctly with the proper Ph.
What medium?
If you are using the Canna line, Nitrogen is in the A and b base. Are you out? Will get back to the light but for now let make sure you are running nutrients correctly with the proper Ph.
What medium?
G
Guest
Guest
@Mr.furley
Should I start next feeding with Canna PK 13/14 and use for a week? Or am I to late for that?
I use Canna Veg, Canna Bloom, CalMag Agent, Cannazym, Cannaboost, Rhizotontic and Mycorrhizae.
All well within, lower, than the recommended doses.
Medium is Canna Terra Pro Plus, not adding anything like perlite or vermiculite. 5 gallon air-pots.
Letting pots dry up, when feeling light I handwater, not using nutes every watering.
Should I start next feeding with Canna PK 13/14 and use for a week? Or am I to late for that?
I use Canna Veg, Canna Bloom, CalMag Agent, Cannazym, Cannaboost, Rhizotontic and Mycorrhizae.
All well within, lower, than the recommended doses.
Medium is Canna Terra Pro Plus, not adding anything like perlite or vermiculite. 5 gallon air-pots.
Letting pots dry up, when feeling light I handwater, not using nutes every watering.
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Mr.furley
Well-known member
Start with Ph, yours is to high. Drop down to 6.2 I'm thinking you got lock out. Stop looking at runoff ph and focus on input only and for god sakes man don't piss on your plants.
Hit them this week with the P/K at a reduced level from the recommended amount, I'm on a half dose of the Canna line but I feed every watering with a once a week water only and use E/C to control my levels. At this week with the P/K your e/c should read 1.3 to 1.6
I'm also thinking that you could up your level of Base nutrients but this needs to done only if the Ph is correct and has been.
The base contains the Nitrogen you thinking you're missing. I have found with the Canna line that the base and cannazym can run close to the recommended numbers but the additives like boost, rhyzo, P/k .... are only needed at specific intervals and at very low doses, once again E/c is a key with this line.
Are you running RO water?
If you don't have it, .....
https://www.cannagardening.com/growguide
Hit them this week with the P/K at a reduced level from the recommended amount, I'm on a half dose of the Canna line but I feed every watering with a once a week water only and use E/C to control my levels. At this week with the P/K your e/c should read 1.3 to 1.6
I'm also thinking that you could up your level of Base nutrients but this needs to done only if the Ph is correct and has been.
The base contains the Nitrogen you thinking you're missing. I have found with the Canna line that the base and cannazym can run close to the recommended numbers but the additives like boost, rhyzo, P/k .... are only needed at specific intervals and at very low doses, once again E/c is a key with this line.
Are you running RO water?
If you don't have it, .....
https://www.cannagardening.com/growguide
G
Guest
Guest
@Mr.furley
Aha, to me new info on PH and not checking runoff, didn't know that!
Great, will give Ladies a healthy dose of PK.
Haha... I wouldn't dream of pissin' on any Lady!
Good info on EC, that value is what I had on latest feeding.
I use rhizo only at veg, watering and spraying leaves.
Boost only in bloom phase when blooming is evident, I will lower that dose from now on.
I'll go full bloom nutes tomorrow, pots where light today. Will be extra observant with the EC values.
I use tap water, PH is 8.2 so when setting PH after letting the nutrient mix rest for a couple of hours I have to raise PH a bit.
From now on I will keep PH to the exact value of 6.2
I have that Canna guide, it is confusing for me that it is for photoperiod and I have autos.
Thank you so much for your kind and knowledgeable guidance, I appreciate it immensely!
Aha, to me new info on PH and not checking runoff, didn't know that!
Great, will give Ladies a healthy dose of PK.
Haha... I wouldn't dream of pissin' on any Lady!
Good info on EC, that value is what I had on latest feeding.
I use rhizo only at veg, watering and spraying leaves.
Boost only in bloom phase when blooming is evident, I will lower that dose from now on.
I'll go full bloom nutes tomorrow, pots where light today. Will be extra observant with the EC values.
I use tap water, PH is 8.2 so when setting PH after letting the nutrient mix rest for a couple of hours I have to raise PH a bit.
From now on I will keep PH to the exact value of 6.2
I have that Canna guide, it is confusing for me that it is for photoperiod and I have autos.
Thank you so much for your kind and knowledgeable guidance, I appreciate it immensely!
Mr.furley
Well-known member
Oh I'm not done with you yet, lol.
Checking run off and letting the pot dry is counterproductive in most case adding unnecessary complexity to 99% of the growers out there (big subject here and best to leave it at that). Just make sure you are getting 10% to 20% runoff.
That Calmag is made for people running RO water who have stripped the cal mag from their Source water, if you are using tap water then you most likely have more then enough calmag, dropping that will make room in the E/C range for your primary nutrients. Since moving into City Water from well water I haven't used cal-mag much in over a year, plus saves you money, time, waste.....
The chart is a little confusing and you have to cross reference it back to Growing Experience, the way they give the range of weeks can be confusing even for me after not growing for a summer. Basically I look at Autos as the lowest number available and photos somewhere in between.
except for this week with the p/k I try to Target an EC of 1.2 through flowering, 0.8 in veg with a base 0.3 tap water
What is your Base water E/C?
Checking run off and letting the pot dry is counterproductive in most case adding unnecessary complexity to 99% of the growers out there (big subject here and best to leave it at that). Just make sure you are getting 10% to 20% runoff.
That Calmag is made for people running RO water who have stripped the cal mag from their Source water, if you are using tap water then you most likely have more then enough calmag, dropping that will make room in the E/C range for your primary nutrients. Since moving into City Water from well water I haven't used cal-mag much in over a year, plus saves you money, time, waste.....
The chart is a little confusing and you have to cross reference it back to Growing Experience, the way they give the range of weeks can be confusing even for me after not growing for a summer. Basically I look at Autos as the lowest number available and photos somewhere in between.
except for this week with the p/k I try to Target an EC of 1.2 through flowering, 0.8 in veg with a base 0.3 tap water
What is your Base water E/C?
G
Guest
Guest
1. Yep, another week, ~10 days, waitnig for more milky, cloudy trichomes...
2. Blueberry without main LED on, just other lighting.
3. That pic is from breeder, Dutch Passion. Could the foxtail be caused by insufficient LED?
4. Not much pistills but they are amber, will harvest same time as Blueberry.
Not shure I got the "lingo" correct, do you think I should consider the plant a lost cause? It really doesn't look like much...
2. Blueberry without main LED on, just other lighting.
3. That pic is from breeder, Dutch Passion. Could the foxtail be caused by insufficient LED?
4. Not much pistills but they are amber, will harvest same time as Blueberry.
Not shure I got the "lingo" correct, do you think I should consider the plant a lost cause? It really doesn't look like much...
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Mr.furley
Well-known member
Never a lost cause looking like that..
I'd be itching to cut it with all the foxtailing, youll see.
Insufficient usually causes airy, intense heat/light and genetics cause foxtailing.
Make sure to look at the tricrome for amber at the base of the pistils not the pistil color it's self.
I'd be itching to cut it with all the foxtailing, youll see.
Insufficient usually causes airy, intense heat/light and genetics cause foxtailing.
Make sure to look at the tricrome for amber at the base of the pistils not the pistil color it's self.
G
Guest
Guest
Aha... another valuable tip, thank you Mr.Furley!
"Make sure to look at the tricrome for amber at the base of the pistils not the pistil color it's self."
"Make sure to look at the tricrome for amber at the base of the pistils not the pistil color it's self."
G
Guest
Guest
Great, I hoped you would chime in! Thank you Mr. Furley!
Only water, no nutritions (two waterings before today) PH 6.20 (exactly to the decimal point)
Humidity in tent is now ~40-45% temp ~20-24C° ~68-75F° a couple ° cooler when lights off for 4 hours
I will wait... perhaps harvest in 3-4 days from now?
Drying room, dry box built from old tent poles 1x1x1.5m 3x3x4feet, black sides and roof, completely dark
plenty air holes in the top, outside box 4 fans on floor blowing in under box sides, in room strong extractor fan in the ceiling
you can feel the draft at holes in boxtop
I can raise and control the humidity to ~50-55% and temp ~20C° ~68F°
Question about this: Give them pH'ed water and boost
Do you mean Canna Boost? Stopped giving that when starting water only schedule.
Only water, no nutritions (two waterings before today) PH 6.20 (exactly to the decimal point)
Humidity in tent is now ~40-45% temp ~20-24C° ~68-75F° a couple ° cooler when lights off for 4 hours
I will wait... perhaps harvest in 3-4 days from now?
Drying room, dry box built from old tent poles 1x1x1.5m 3x3x4feet, black sides and roof, completely dark
plenty air holes in the top, outside box 4 fans on floor blowing in under box sides, in room strong extractor fan in the ceiling
you can feel the draft at holes in boxtop
I can raise and control the humidity to ~50-55% and temp ~20C° ~68F°
Question about this: Give them pH'ed water and boost
Do you mean Canna Boost? Stopped giving that when starting water only schedule.