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New to the forums - not to growing [currently PTK]

Yeah, I got the app that was mentioned.
Just gotta wait for my lights to kick back on this evening before I can pop in there and adjust anything.
Trust, I'm tapping my foot waiting for the timer to click on!
Sadly that's still several hours away...I'll definitely be sure to adjust the lighting and get another update on in a few days after she hopefully recovers a bit.
 
No3odiesShad0w ​ Radeon
I used the app and checked the PPFD and DLI.
They measured at PPFD of 534 and DLI of 43.
Given the ranges you stated earlier, I'm at a loss of what to do here as the DLI is high but the PPFD is already lower than the stated range, any advice?
I turned the light down so that the DLI was in range ( now at 32.1) but this dropped the PPFD to 486.
If the advice is a new light, I'm not sure how soon I'd be able to afford one...so anything to go on for now with this one would be appreciated!
 
Your plant is still in veg right?

If so, a PPFD of 500 to 550 is about as high as I would go at that stage of growth giving it 18hours of light and 6 hours of dark. I wouldn't be giving it 700 to 900 PPFD until after I'd flipped to the flower cycle and at least a few weeks into that.

If your plants are struggling with nute deficiency or other problems it does pay to reduce the intensity of the light which gives you & the plant a bit of a breather to help correct things
 
No, they're a little over 1 week into flowering, she's on 12/12 now.
But if you'd recommend keeping it lower for the first couple weeks, it probably wouldn't hurt to let her recover a bit.
 
I'd do 650-700 ppfd for about a week, week and a half. Then I would ramp up to about 800-850 for the rest of flowering if she recovers well. That leaf curling in both pics, even on the bottom is concerning. Not tent temp, but what is the temp AT CANOPY LEVEL? Tent temp is not temp directly under the light. Measure temp at your tops. I still say light issue.

5.) Temperature Problems (Heat Stress / Cold Shock)
Yellow or burnt leaves near the light
General yellowing of upper leaves
Leaves start “turning up” at the edges, or forming “tacos”

https://www.growweedeasy.com/why-cannabis-leaves-yellow
 
As Radeon says for the first week and keep increasing. 750 is a very safe bet for the rest of the grow but if you can monitor them closely and adjust them regularly you'll find some strains that can manage well with 1200 and produce some whopper buds and huge yields, but you have to keep temps down and humidity under 50 to get there.
 
Radeon I do tend to measure at canopy level for temp and that's where I measured for the DLI/PPFD.
I'll have to look into a different light before next grow if it's not a heat issue then, for sure.
I do keep the light about 2ft from the top of the canopy, but at the intensity I need the light at, maybe I should hang it higher? My tent is highly reflective, so that's not really an issue for side lighting, and I have her splayed out good for thorough top lighting.
Bluey Let's just say that I can freely work with the photoperiod PTK seeds for a while. That was my hope of trying the manifold process, see what the strain responds well to, and do another, larger grow.
I'll keep this in mind and keep adjusting my light back up a bit each night. I do record what info I can, so that app will help record that change.
When I look for a new light, I'll also keep that range in mind, though I have preferred adjustable LEDs so far.

As always, the advice is greatly appreciated! I may be a hobby grower, but I am also a man of science, haha
 
Here ya go Boss! This should get you in the ballpark....

DLI.png
 
My suggestion is to buy another similar light to sit beside the existing light which will give you a much more even spread of light. Allow 30 watt per sq. foot for photoperiod flower production with the latest EVO LED's.
 
I have trouble getting up to those PPFD numbers without light issues. I have a 3x4x6 tent with a high quality Photontek 485w led light at a minimum of 24” usually I’m trying for 30” above canopy I’d have to look at my notes but 650-750 is about as high as I can get.
People have to remember that past that point everything has to be super dialled in. We listen and read all this info about how much the plant can take, and it can, but only under perfect conditions. This is amplified by the intensity of LEDs in general. You can still get good results from less power and you’ll have less problems cause you’re not pushing the plant so hard.
I feel like the light you have is probably decent enough, I would suggest you stay focused on the other environmental factors and worry less about getting that
night cranked for now. Raise it up, turn it down , and gradually as you get things on point you can start to add back the power and work up to 750-850 like people suggested of a grow or two.
 
Some solid advice, thank you!
Really the only problem I'm having right now, so it's really all there is to focus on other than weekly reservoir changes.
No leaves falling off, just some bleaching and curling.
She keeps on growing good though, still growing up towards that light real vigorously!
It's only a 22w LED though, so I may invest in at least a stronger light before next grow.
 
Make sure when using the app to have your hours set correctly. I messed up on this and I was giving my plants almost 1500ppfd. Also make sure you have the LED on full spectrum.

These 2 DLI charts haven't steered me wrong. One for photo periods and the other for autos. If you checked all around and the light is within range, it could be a nutrient issue, water temp issue or something else. Adding more light won't help the problem.

Your grow light should be plenty fine. I have a 200w and 2x 150w lights and I can get sizable plants if I get get this custom fertilizer recipe down. My biggest was 5.5oz on the White Widow CBD ... She was huge and grown under a spider farmer light 200w. These lights can grow good plants. Some of these lights are way overkill if you're not supplementing CO2.

I'm doing my classic underfeeding.... Maybe they need more food? Maybe it's something else.
 

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Duly noted, and I do check my plant daily. But yes I had seen the time setting, I poked around the app real hard when I installed it.
That auto light chart is handy though, I was just considering a round of WW auto beans myself, so that's some funny timing!

Yeah, the issue with the light/heat from light seems to have been my bigger issue. She's already looking greener (a darker green) and has sprung right up, so I think that for this grow, that was the real issue. But now I have a means to check that (and record it), so the next grow shouldn't presumably suffer so much in veg with too much light. I also tend to slightly underfeed since I have a solid bucket setup, DWC does make feeding pretty simple if you pay attention.
 
Saeteinn I'm currently growing my autos under 14hrs of light but they're still getting 40 DLI because the PPFD is up around 800-1000. It's not just about intensity or length. It's a factor of both those things that compromise the total amount of energy a plant can uptake from the lights before it is stressed
 
Also, that sharp drop off that you see on the photo chart. That's when you flip to flower. That's the trigger for the plants. Then you keep increasing the intensity of the lights as they progress into flower then taper towards the end
 
No3odiesShad0w Okay, so I was reading the charts correctly. That's good to know.
And it makes sense to factor in both time and intensity, it honestly wasn't a vector I was playing with at the moment since this grow was focused on seeing how well the PTK would manifold, so admittedly more of my focus was on that.
I'll keep this info in mind for the autos and future grows, though, since I am trying to narrow things down and dial in everything I can for my seeds and setup. I'd like to be able to pull up a data sheet from previous grows and have a better idea per strain how to grow each plant best.
 
Thankfully it took real well to it, I'll probably pist another photo update on Monday when I defoliate her again
 
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