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VtGreen1965
New member
You need to have a well established seedling before you use nutes, I give them a couple weeks but I've never done auto's before.
I hope this helps, the big thing is to go easy, the plant will tell you what it needs.
I hope this helps, the big thing is to go easy, the plant will tell you what it needs.
az2000
Guest
What medium will you grow in? If soil, some potting mixes are amended with nutrients and don't need feeding for up to 8 weeks, depending on which you use. (If you use a light soil, or soilless, you may need to start feeding the 2nd week after sprouting.).
If in soil, you don't need a franchised, multi-bottle feeding schedule. You can use a single product like Grow More - Sea Grow (16-16-16), or Jack's Classic All Purpose (20-20-20). Cannabis grows fine with a 1-1-1 ratio that way. (I've grown a plant with just MiracleGro Tomato 18-18-21, a 1-1-1.2 ratio). I grow this way, and will supplement in veg to raise N, and P in flower. I raise K all the way through using a silica product in veg, or potassium sulfate (0-0-50) in flower (sometimes I use langbeinite instead if I want to supplement magnesium). I have a feeding schedule I can share with you, if you want to use generic things like this. (But, ultimately, it depends on the soil you'll use.).
If in soil, you don't need a franchised, multi-bottle feeding schedule. You can use a single product like Grow More - Sea Grow (16-16-16), or Jack's Classic All Purpose (20-20-20). Cannabis grows fine with a 1-1-1 ratio that way. (I've grown a plant with just MiracleGro Tomato 18-18-21, a 1-1-1.2 ratio). I grow this way, and will supplement in veg to raise N, and P in flower. I raise K all the way through using a silica product in veg, or potassium sulfate (0-0-50) in flower (sometimes I use langbeinite instead if I want to supplement magnesium). I have a feeding schedule I can share with you, if you want to use generic things like this. (But, ultimately, it depends on the soil you'll use.).
az2000
Guest
I've never grow with anything FF. I've read that HF is not as hot as Ocean Forest, and people start feeding around week 4 (probably 25% strength. That's how I would do it.). Perhaps someone who grows in HF can give you advice.
Something else I've gathered from reading people who grow in HF, it can be dense and stay too wet too long. It sounds like people who use it add perlite or coco to make it lighter. If you didn't do that, be careful watering too frequently. That seems like a common mistake.
Something else I've gathered from reading people who grow in HF, it can be dense and stay too wet too long. It sounds like people who use it add perlite or coco to make it lighter. If you didn't do that, be careful watering too frequently. That seems like a common mistake.
az2000
Guest
If you haven't planted in the soil yet, sure you could mix 1 scoop perlite to 3 scoops HF. That would help. I've never used HF, never handled it. I can't say how much perlite to add. I tend to over-do it with perlite because I like my soil to dry in 2-3 days (faster wet/dry cycles). If it were me, I'd probably mix it 50/50. But, that's just based on what I've heard about it being slow-drying, prone to root rot. I could be entirely wrong about it. 25-30% be reasonable.
Ocean Forest seems too nutritious for me. People say it's not as long as you don't feed on top of it (until around week 6). But, even then, some of the plants I've seen (growing just in OF, without additional nutrients) looked a little on the overfed side.
I like light, airy soils. My soil is essentially soiless (Pro-Mix HP) and 25% rich soil added (plus 25% perlite. HP has 35% perlite. The rich soil I add, Kellogg Patio Plus, has about 5% perlite). It dries in 2-3 days when a plant has grown into the container.
I'm growing in Kellogg Palm & Cactus right now. It has almost zero nutrients in it. It's drying in 18 hours. That's a little to fast for my tastes.
Anyway, I've always steered clear of soils with nutrients already in them. I'm not the right person to guide you on OF or HF. I like to feed each watering (and water frequently due to rapid wet/dry cycles). I like to vary the NPK ratio and dial in what the plant is eating. Almost like soilless, but I like to have light "soiled" nature to it. (I'm planning to do that with the cactus mix an see how it works). Even though it's a light soil, I feed lightly. Only about 200-260ppm.
BTW: Happy Frog is reported to be 0.30-0.30-0.05. Ocean Forest is reported to be 0.30-0.45-0.5.
The bags don't come with that NPK label. But the Washington Sate Dept. of Ag. has a database of product analysis. That's what it shows for those soils.
The soil I add to my soilless is 0.30-0.10-0.10. I only use 25% to the nutrientless Pro-Mix HP and extra perlite. That gives you an idea how much my style differs from growing in straight OF or HF.
But, you should be ok. As long as you give it time to dry between waterings; don't start feeding until week 4-5; start feeding very lightly (50-100ppm). Watch your plant as you increase it. I would also watch the runoff ppms from the very beginning. That might produce some useful info if you continue growing in HF. Sometimes you can see trends, like amended nutrients being exhausted as PPMs go down. Or, salt buildup if they go up as you feed. With my soil, the ppms are like a canary in the cage. I know exactly what runoff PPM results in nutrient lockout. I know the soil ph base upon how high the runoff ppm is. My feeding "schedule" is dialed in based upon that.
Ocean Forest seems too nutritious for me. People say it's not as long as you don't feed on top of it (until around week 6). But, even then, some of the plants I've seen (growing just in OF, without additional nutrients) looked a little on the overfed side.
I like light, airy soils. My soil is essentially soiless (Pro-Mix HP) and 25% rich soil added (plus 25% perlite. HP has 35% perlite. The rich soil I add, Kellogg Patio Plus, has about 5% perlite). It dries in 2-3 days when a plant has grown into the container.
I'm growing in Kellogg Palm & Cactus right now. It has almost zero nutrients in it. It's drying in 18 hours. That's a little to fast for my tastes.
Anyway, I've always steered clear of soils with nutrients already in them. I'm not the right person to guide you on OF or HF. I like to feed each watering (and water frequently due to rapid wet/dry cycles). I like to vary the NPK ratio and dial in what the plant is eating. Almost like soilless, but I like to have light "soiled" nature to it. (I'm planning to do that with the cactus mix an see how it works). Even though it's a light soil, I feed lightly. Only about 200-260ppm.
BTW: Happy Frog is reported to be 0.30-0.30-0.05. Ocean Forest is reported to be 0.30-0.45-0.5.
The bags don't come with that NPK label. But the Washington Sate Dept. of Ag. has a database of product analysis. That's what it shows for those soils.
The soil I add to my soilless is 0.30-0.10-0.10. I only use 25% to the nutrientless Pro-Mix HP and extra perlite. That gives you an idea how much my style differs from growing in straight OF or HF.
But, you should be ok. As long as you give it time to dry between waterings; don't start feeding until week 4-5; start feeding very lightly (50-100ppm). Watch your plant as you increase it. I would also watch the runoff ppms from the very beginning. That might produce some useful info if you continue growing in HF. Sometimes you can see trends, like amended nutrients being exhausted as PPMs go down. Or, salt buildup if they go up as you feed. With my soil, the ppms are like a canary in the cage. I know exactly what runoff PPM results in nutrient lockout. I know the soil ph base upon how high the runoff ppm is. My feeding "schedule" is dialed in based upon that.
quietlybinary
New member
Generally the seed breeder has information about the strain. They will say on their website how many weeks in total it will take to finish and it usually takes one or two weeks longer than stated. Breeders do not usually say how long for each individual cycle, but I find that taking a look at different journals for the strain helps to give a more accurate idea of timing.
