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SOIL New Grow

So about 5 weeks in with these bonsai plants and after nearly loosing the lot and a few days of experimenting getting the environment better mucking around with the timer for air exchange fans, fan speeds and humidifier settings I have it set up to remain fairly consistent with temps ranging from 20°c with lights out up to 26°c by the afternoon and humidity staying around 50%. They are starting to get going now and bouncing back from their fimming and unplanned cold shock. I've started a bit of LST while the main stem still durable.
The mongrel that has started flowering is continuing to do so and I'm in two minds as to ripping it out and saving the soil or just letting it go and hopefully I get enough off it to cover the cost of the seed and the dirt it's growing in.
Still following Nebulas watering schedule and ppfd is about 480 on each plant.
 

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Nice technique. One of the oldest and very effective. Training all those laters early without stunting takes a slow hand. Ain't figured out the mini flower, get a auto in the by mistake.
 
Yea I was shown it bout 18 yrs ago using pipe cleaners haha and have used it a few times (with proper ties) figured probably best way to go with these considering the slow growth I'm already experiencing. Nope, I reckon so... I have some gg X zkittles autos arriving next week that managed to make it through and I have a few more fabric pots so I'm thinking it's not too late I might put one of them in as well to boost overall yield, should have enough light coverage 🤞🏾
 
If you've already got one. buy a larger one and run it leaving the other for backup. I have two of the same size because on one of them the probe input broke so ACI sent me another FOR FREE! Love their customer service! It still works from the panel but it can't probe the environment. The free one works great and I can pinpoint my humidity levels so what I did was to setup the broken one to run all the time, lights on or off. The flow rate can be adjusted from the panel so I started at full vapor but humidity go to high at lights off so I turned it down a few notches until I was able to maintain a perfect 55% at lights off. At lights on the other supplements what the broken one doesn't but it isn't much really.

In your case having a larger one will negate the need for two in the tent but you'll have a backup incase the larger one breaks.

I would suggest you keep the humidifiers close to your plants so that you don't have to humidify the entire room as much as you making a humidity cloud around your plants. They get the environment they like and you don't have to be refilling the reservoir so often.

I bought a couple of water level valves that I can install in the reservoir to keep it topped off seeing as how I've needed to refill both twice a day but I'm getting close to flipping the light schedule which means I don't need the humidity that high meaning I can remove the broken humidifier and use the one that has the working probe as humidity will drop to 50%, it's at 55% now, on flip and 45% once I see flower sites forming.
 
Thanks for the advice mate, I appreciate it. Im running two at the moment but I don't have any auto control involved with my humidity only the dials on the units so Ive had to experiment with a timer for the air exchange fans for the whole room to find a sweet spot with temp humidity and air exchange. It's working pretty good maintaining 50-60rh during lights on, Ive checked it when the light starts up and it was 68rh.. probably gets up to 70 something when it's dark and inbetween air cycles..
Good idea with the water level valves for refilling, getting to be a pita refilling by hand every 12 hrs. Thinking about just running a hose from my rainwater tank all the way into the room that would make it heaps easier for filling water jug too.
 
Wouldn't have made a very good surgeon ay.
Looking a bit better tonight, might end up alright and just have a butchered leaf.
 
Yea Im regretting it. I done some more research about it and the general consensus is it takes just as much time for the plant to get going as it does when topping and you run a higher risk of not getting the FIM right.
 
I would be a bit worried if my lights off humidity levels were consistently in the high 60's low 70's. Any way you can lower humidity at lights off?

Do you have a dehumidifier? If so can you set it up so that it goes on when the lights go out to help bring down the humidity to a more acceptable level?
 
LOL! Literally the name answers your question....

FIM. Fuck I Missed.

This came about when people were trying to top their plants and didn't take as much as they should have but saw great results because of it.

In my experience, FIMming is less stressful and is faster in regard to recovery. Maybe they think they're FIMming but are actually topping?
 
Mmmm I was afraid you were going to say that hahaha I have a portable AC unit in there but I'd have to rewire it to get it to switch on with a controller or timer.... I had a look online and I'm going to order a ink bird humidity controller today (bout $50 aud) then I can do what you were saying, have one running constantly and the other on the controller for topping up and I was going to plug another oscillating fan into the controller to try manage the humidity if it still gets to high.....
Another thing with the humidity high in the dark time I was thinking is what about when you growing outdoor and It gets up to 100%rh at night time... ?
 
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If you are in 100% RH then your plants are probably under water! LOL!

It's not OMG DO IT NOW worry but dropping humi levels will greatly decrease rot from happening. The plants could very well go through their entire life in the conditions you have it in and it would be fine but rot will always be a constant threat if you leave it that high. I get that you're on a budget so just do the best you can at dropping humi levels at lights out. Maybe turn up the fan speed to move more humid air out and drier air in, asuming that your lung room has drier air. If you can't? No worries. Just keep an eagle eye on your plants to make sure no rot starts but if you are going to be doing this on a consistent basis, taking your areas humi levels into consideration, a dehu is going to become an essential piece of equipment for you. You just might have to bite the bullet and get one. Thankfully you aren't in the US where our dehu's are probably going to triple in price due to the Idiot in Chief.

BTW what are the dimensions of the room your plants are in? Are you closing up the pallet rack grow room or leaving it open like in the picture? Depending on how large the room is, a dehumidifier may not be all that expensive. I find them at 2nd hand stores all the time for almost nothing. Most people will buy them for a specific scenario. When that scenario is over it ends up collecting dust wherever they've stored it(much like treadmills but that's a whole other discussion) and will finally end up at the 2nd hand. Take a look at some of your local 2nd hand stores and see if you can find one for a good price. I've bought perfectly good, 1 gal res humidifiers for $5. I still have two that work perfectly fine. I don't use them because I have the ACI ones but if the ACI's break I have them as backups.
 
Hahaha.. ok I'll keep an eye out for a second hand unit, that's how I came across the AC ;) I also use UV lights during budding which I think helps with eliminating mould... yea it's open like in the pics the room size is about 550 cubic feet..
Also I hope that if any one in LA that they're ok.
 
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