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The male pollen sacs will swell and then start cracking right before the pollen starts falling out. You want to harvest them just as you're starting to see most of them get cracks.
If you look at this picture (click for a closeup), most of the pollen sacs have already opened up, but there are a few closed ones at the top still cracking and about to spill their pollen. That's what you're looking for:
Here are more examples. Pollen sacs look like flowers after they open, and you want to get the pollen right before the "petals" open up.
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