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Light tripping circuit breaker

DabberDog

DabberDog

New member
I have my new 95w light on the same extension cord, power-strip, timer, and outlet I had my 325w light on and it trips the circuit breaker about 25% of the time it turns on. There is no on/off switch. The light is either plugged in and on or unplugged and off.

Turning it on has been:
1. On a timer.
2. Plugging into a live power-strip.
3. Plugging into a dead power-strip, then turning the power-strip on.
4. Plugging the live power cord into the light.
 
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Hi, Dabber.

I am not an electrician, but suspect:
1. A faulty breaker, needing replacement, or
2. Your power strip has an internal circuit breaker set to trip at 1500 watts draw. I ran into this in my greenhouse when running 2 750+ watt heaters. Ran another power cord in - fixed it.
 
Outlet 1, power strip:
TV (63")
Laptop
Modem
Wifi
Landline

Outlet 2, power strip 1 (new strip with built-in timer):
HLG 360 Elite light
1 Hurricane fan

Outlet 2, power strip 2 (was using it for the HLG and up to 4 fans):
HLG 100 light, the tripper, on a plug-in timer
1 Hurricane fan

The strips are quality, as are the timer and new strip/timer combo.
The tripping was happening before I got the new strip. It is still happening.
The tripping does not happen with the 360 on the same strip and timer.
The power strip in outlet 1 is plugged directly. Outlet 2 has 2, exterior grade extension cords for the strips.
I have the option of running a new shop grade extension cord to a third outlet so I don't have one outlet with 2 strips.
 
I would say that you have too many things on that circuit,none of the things you listed draw enough amps to trip the circuit there must be something else on the circuit that makes it trip,do you have access to the panel??
 
I say shut that breaker off and see what else doesn't work, maybe a fridge or something like that is also on that circuit
 
It's a 20-amp circuit. The things listed are the only items plugged in and on the circuit.
The biggest draw on the circuit is the HLG 360 that draws 4 amps, max, according to the driver. I think, can't tell from the TV. Internet says between 1-4.
On the panel, I have the A/C and exterior GFI circuits turned off because I don't use them. In my house, I have only basic kitchen appliances and an alarm clock in my bedroom.
Switching to an outlet on a different circuit is a desperate option because it would mean running an orange extension cord around my living room. Another maybe. You got me thinking.
It's curious that it doesn't happen all the time. When the light turns on, my day is pretty much started, and all my gadgets are plugged in and running. I could try making sure my TV is turned off. I don't want to turn off my 360 when the 100 turns on... maybe turn it down? That would lower the amps?
My bag was architecture and teaching the programs. I contracted electric.
 
Do you have a watt meter? If so plug it in and record the watt draw on each item and socket. If no meter then add up the watt rating for each item to determine total draw. If draw > circuit rating, then trip is in order. You could be close to the total circuit rating, but at startup some items briefly draw more than their rating which may spike the draw and cause a trip. Also each plug connection can contribute resistance and degrade the circuit, reducing the available load. Use the formula volts x amps = watts. 120volts x 15amps = 1800 watts available assuming true 120 volts available and a 15 amp breaker. Breakers trip either from a sudden spike in draw or a chronic high load causing heat build up. How much extension cord is in the circuit? What matters is the gauge and length. Voltage will drop with increased length and/or decreased gauge. If the circuit can not get it's power in volts, it will try to draw it in amps which can cause a trip. The cord for a heavy load should be minimum 14 gauge, 12 is better particularly if it is a long length. A 16 or 18 gauge is ok for low draw items like 1-3 fans, but not for multiple items. There is a formula for volt drop for length, can't remember off top on my head. Also The contacts in the timer(s) could be contributing to the problem. You can try swapping out the individual components to see if you can find the heavy draw item. A breaker going bad is rare but not impossible. If they are bad it usually shows up soon after installation. Bottom line, if it keeps tripping you need to find the cause. The HLG 100 is the new item that started this correct? I assume that is an LED light. Could be a bad driver causing a heavy load at startup It may be a PITA but you can try moving everything that is causing the trip to a different circuit to see if the trip moves. If it does not, then rule out a bad breaker. If it does move then you need to reduce the load on that circuit. And remember, just because something is new, does not mean that it is not faulty. That is a concept to always remember particularly in auto parts.
 
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If you have a 20 amp breaker, the building wiring should be minimum 12 gauge. Is it correct? A 20 amp circuit should be able to handle the load you have described. Never trust the internet for watt draw ratings, and only use what is printed on the item as a guide. Best to actually measure it with a meter.
 
Okay, then! Turns out one outlet is for my 'dining room', the other three are the living room. The dining and one living are on the same wall. The dining one is actually in my living room, not dining.
Ran an orange, disguised it with plants. Let's see how it goes.
Thumbs to Allotrope1000 and Gator for making me think through the dabs.
 
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Ckbrew buddy, my building is a piece of garbage. I wouldn't be surprised if this place was wired with twisty ties and bonsai wire. There were electrical issues throughout the building since the residents first moved in. I could look at the MEP drawings and not trust what they say. Yesterday, there was a balcony inspection. Mine has cracks and puddles in a cracked low spot instead of the drain. I might be ranting on the hate thread about how this building is so garbagesqe that the balconies are being repaired or replaced.
No equipment to check such things.
I gave you the thumb, too.
 
I don't know the calculations, but these are the numbers on the TV, for what it's worth.

The Samsung model UN65TU7000FXZA has a maximum power consumption of 190 watts. When operating on a standard US 120V electrical system, this translates to a maximum current draw of approximately 1.58 amps​
 
Its probably a faulty light. Likely the driver but you dont say what sort of light it is.

One shouldn't use power strips if one can avoid it.
 
MUSHROOM SHOES.jpg


To much tripping is bad for the brain...
 
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