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HELP! Leaves: -glance -fresh +matte +lime +crispy +droopy +curly +plasmolyzed

whopee

New member
Hi there fellows! :)

We were moved to a new growing spot at the age of 35 days (more tight space with more light added). Before that the growth was amazing with no problems seen at all.

Now we are 56 days old and got some problems with leaves:
• drooping (claws)
• yellowing
• crispy (yellow)
• plasmolysed
• maybe darken in colour (seems like got darker leaves then when was younger)
• some top leaves cupping like when heat stressed
• leaves were more Tuff & toned (tonicity), feeling spiky


• Showed SEX (female) but no flowers | “bag seed”
• Before topping upper leaves were 9-11 spikes / now usually 5-7
At the age of 45-50 days the Plant was also stressed by the underwatering – this is the point when I saw something is wrong.

I tried to normal my watering process, get into my PH understanding, read many of the Manuals (deficiency, toxicity, watering, light, roots etc.) – but still can’t find the way out of this gap.

Looking forward for your help and experience! Thanks in advance! Much love!
GIRL data:
Strain:
  • Female (just a bag seed / maybe Auto)

Soil:

11-L pot aired from the bottom, sides and inside (8 dental pipes used to get Air exchange to the center of the pot). The water runs off very fast, seems no drainage problem there.

Soil body (N: 150-350mg/L | P: 30mg/L | K: 250-400mg/L + microelements | PH = 5.5-6.5
  • highmoor/lowmoor peat
  • dolomitic meal
  • +drainage
  • 30% perlite
  • 15% river sand
  • +wood ash
  • +eggshell powder
  • mycorhiza bacteria
  • peat moss (cut and put in upper soil layers)

Space & Fan:
  • 30x30x90 Cm
  • 100mm Fan @ the top with ~ 90 m3/hour speed
  • Fresh air from window+
  • Temp (last 2 weeks) = 30C+ @ the top
  • Humidity (got no meter / My area humidity) = 70/80 – could be too dry last 2 weeks

Light:

LED bio lights
Give almost no heat, can be touched easily with a hand / used almost the entire grow:
  • 3x 10W bulbs (full + “red/blue”spectrum) ~ 700 lm each
  • 2x 18W blubs (full spectrum) ~ 1800 lm each [mounted sideways]
General LED lights (problem there maybe/ switched them off today morning)
Heat up very high as up to 40С degrees, not comfortable to be touched very hot at the bulb bottom:
  • 2x 20W bulbs (6500K) = 2000 lm each
WAS ~ 9000 lm / NOW ~ 5.700 lm (61.000lx) for 30x30 cm surface (I am sure 9000lm for 30x30cm is too much)
Watering / PH / Nuts:

When 35 days old – drunk like 0.5L until runoff

Now 56 days old – can drink up to 1.5-2L until runoff

In average I water almost every day: 1-1,5L/day (giving breaks sometimes when I see some signals).
  • 3 days (defecate) Water PH = ~8 (always watered this PH and had no problems earlier)
  • Runoff PH = ~7
  • Last days I use coffee / lemon juice to make my water more acid = 5-6
The yellow leaves I cut off were a lil crispy even when dooping (looked claw), like plasmolysed.

I don’t give her much Nuts, don’t think it’s a Nuts toxicity:

Started with Veg 25% when 21days old and use like 1time/3 days(week).

VEG (organic+mineral) 5:2,5:3
  • +: microelements, vitamins(B1, PP), humate and growth stimulator (amber acid)
  • They recommend: 2.5ml / 1L water (roots) 1.25ml / 1L water (foliage)
    Max level they say: 10 ml / 1L water
  • Period: once / week (veg); once / month (bloom)
Bloom (organic+mineral) 2,5:4:5
  • +: microelements
  • They recommend: 10ml / 1L water (roots)
  • Period: once / 10-15 days



What I’ve tried to do:
  • Use hypotonic solution (split watering into morning / evening with more hypotonic sol in evening)
  • Control pot getting dry (getting dry rather fast for 10L pot – seems I like it)
  • Ph seems to be <7 (Runoff= 6-7, water doesn’t smell)
  • Control main stem colour: green (earlier days) / purple (when uderwatering and heat stress days) / back into green (the last week)
  • Control nuts: should be no problems with Nitrogen & Phosphorus toxicity as I didn’t feed much and the plant is rather big these days / think it can need only more. Mg should be ok too, as there is an eggshell in soil + I’ve tried to give Mg by roots & foliage.
  • Heat control – took some of the lite yesterday, seems she looks a lil better


Сalendar (watering / changes):

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1. 21 DAY | AFTER FIM RECOVERY
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2. 24 DAYS | FAST GROWING
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3. 27 DAYS | TOP + LST
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4. 36 DAY | MOVING TO A NEW BOX
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5. 40 DAYS | NEW BOX LIFE
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6. 51 DAY | TOTALLY STRESSED
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7. 52 DAY | PREFLOWERS
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Last edited:
8. 56 day | drooping / curly / dry
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9. 58 days | yesterday
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10. 59 days | today
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extra | pot
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extra | stem

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EXTRA | HEAT
20180826_050218.jpg

Light

Speaking about the heat: as earlier there were up to 5 bulbs (+2 sideways) the temp at the top space was up to 40 (30+ at the level of leaves), I mean the humidity that time could be very bad (i don’t measure it).
During stress time there were >115.000 lx (10700 lm) for 30x30 space.
Now it’s just 5700 lm (~60.000 lx):


stress time.pngbulbs.pngstress time.png


EXTRA | LEAVES
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Big thanks in advance! ;)
 
Have you tried calmag.
I’ll second that furley 😁 good tip

There are calcium & magnesium in my soil mix with eggshell powder (I think mb even more than needed). I didn't try Cal fertilizers. Think I should try?
Last week I was giving her pharmacy "Mg" via roots / foliage (u can see timestamp in chart @ 1st post). I dont think more needed right now. I try to move slowly...
  • + I'm feeding with Veg & Bloom nuts.
  • Happened so, that I gave her 100% Bloom nuts when I first saw something like pistils (age 37), 10 days before the stress time. I also lollypopped & supercropped that day a lot.
  • And 3 days after I went back feeding her with Veg nuts as seemed it were not pistils.
  • Right when stressed / yellowing I gave her 200% Veg nuts and I don't see it hurt. Could it hurt her with "N" toxicity right after moisture / heat stress, i wonder?
  • I saw real pistils 8 days ago, monitored them grow for 4 days and giving Bloom nuts since that time. Started like 25% - 1day break - 50%. I want to make a break with Blooms for a while.
By the way, She showed Sex 8 days ago and there are no flowers. Seems to me it's not an auto, just fem seed. I need her to Flower but I can't go this way :cry::laugh:


Can it indicate something? It shouldn't be nitrogen toxicity as She's big enough, growing fast and I gave her 25-50-100-100..., once even 200% and she didn't progress in yellow after that. Btw my Veg. nuts Producer says the max dosage is 500%, so I feel like she should (idk) be ok with "N". The growth is fast. New sprouts all over Colas and get bigger rapidly. I tried "Mg" as well and shall add more next watering.

What can crispy (feeling dry), matte-looking like, proportionaly liming / yellowing leaves say about? :(
I'm confused also whether I should still feed her Bloom nuts as there are no flowers like 8 days from pistils (plants react badly to switching?)
 
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If your plant is a auto flower, stress will slow it down.
first I would get and keep the PH in check 6-7.
second I would give a calcium magnesium supplement you almost can't overdo it.
third is stop topping, defoil, lollipopping for now and make sure in the future to only change one thing at a time so it is a little easier to pin point problems as they arise.
there can be a thing as too much love and if it is a photo you can flip after you get the problem at hand fixed.

it seems you've got a good grasp on what you're doing just need to fine-tune it, good luck.
 
Thanks friend! I'll keep that in mind and try to find Cal-Mag.

Was defoiling due to space issues & those awful yellow crispy bastards seems like not giving but taking and shading each other. I time by time cut those leaves that don't meet my future plant design while they are young (not to waste nutrients on them) as they say there will be a Bloom stretching, so I should keep a hand on. But I try not to hurt her.., you right.
 
what are you reading ph with? ive had plants look like that all red with yellow leaves, thats what happens if i use tap water and no nutes, ph 7.5 EC 1.4 so i would be very confident to say you have ph problems impeding phosphorous and potassium.

i dont wanna sound "anti organic" but all those things you put into the soil, like egg shells and wood ash and coffe need to be decomposed before theyre ready to be processed by mycoz.
if you where running a no till worm bed it would be no issue but you are essentially trying to grow a plant directly in the compost.
theres tons of chemical reactions generating gases and heat that are bad for your plant, there must be very little oxygen in your soil if CO2 is being created directly at the roots.
in thinking you may already have root issues ):

on top of all that youre feeding hydro nutes at twice the dose????
my very pessimistic mind says it time to dump that mix and get some Fox farms soils to begin with.

is this your first grow?? how do those little bulbs do? 5700 lumens even for a single plant is very low.

btw dayum thats some next level organizing and journalism you have going on with this post
 
is this your first grow?
Thanks for the deep and kind reply my friend!
Yeah, thats a first one :) All the way long I get something new even tried to read a number of manuals. I'm missing special equipment but try to hold on.

what are you reading ph with?
I use flintstone PH Papers
They say PPM meter is a nice thing to check Girl's appetite. Does ppm give some particular data I may need right now?

would be very confident to say you have ph problems impeding phosphorous and potassium
Also looking towards phosphorus deficiency as well..

i dont wanna sound "anti organic" but all those things you put into the soil, like egg shells and wood ash and coffe need to be decomposed before theyre ready to be processed by mycoz.
if you where running a no till worm bed it would be no issue but you are essentially trying to grow a plant directly in the compost.
Yeah, sounds logic, hope it's not that way ))
The soil is mostly of highmoor/lowmoor peat + perlite + sand and I tried to make it aired somehow. I keep that in mind, dont want to change pot yet..

how do those little bulbs do? 5700 lumens even for a single plant is very low
You know, I got nothing to compare with, but seems rather well.
  • When she got 5 days old: I got first 10W bio lamp
  • 10 days old: 2x 10W bio lamps
  • 24 days old: +2x 18W bio lamps (it grew brilliant under this setup)
  • 36 days old: +2x(3x) 20W general 6500K (it became too hot inside my box I suppose)
  • now running: 2x 18W + 3x10W (bio led)
I thought there is a gap like 55.000 lx - 80.000 lx. Can u comment on that. How much is needed converting to LED?

Thanks for the gold reply !:)
 
You are very welcome you got me curious as well. This being your first round should be more focused on getting to know the plant. You should definitely go with some tried and proven soil, or even regular soil from your backyard with perlite, and leave the supersoil recipes for future rounds once you successfully managed and learned other aspects like watering practices, plant training, drying and curing.
I imagine it may feel very frustrating to have to start over from seeds but one this you learn growing is that patience pays. About the light. I have no idea about leds I grow with CFLs. 1.2 meters x 0.5 meters space with 20 bulbs putting out 1800 each that’s 36 000 lumens and it’s barely enough
 
The seed got to the moist cotton disks and since that time I'm in the Techno rhythm getting how things up on the fly :D

Some tricks were done as they should be due to facts, but plenty of xp. earned anyway and the process was fine. I would like to see her Flowering much.
Big shout for the warm welcome! Appreciate that much .)
 
H drop kit is good, I use that and a ph pen, I get a ball park figure with the gen test kit but then when ya use a ph pen it really shows ya where you are by point, very useful for measuring it to fine detai, for ex, my waters ph is 6.0. After adding nutes it goes up slightly to around 6.4 to 5, No need to change you’d say and you’d be right, but sometimes I lower it a slight fraction to 6,20 for a couple of waterings.
 
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