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HELP! Leaf issue close to harvest

YYCannabis

New member
This girl is an auto and 16 wks old. Harvest should be within a couple of weeks. What is happening?

- Upper leaves affected
- red stems similar to phosphorous deficiency
- DWC
- pH maintained to approx 6.1 - 6.2
- fed just Blend and bloom nutes.
- ***new light*** that I’m trying to find the right height above canopy. Lights are currently a few inches above the top cola.

Is this a nute issue or light burn?

Cheers
YYC
 

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Just might be. I moved the light up another few inches as a precaution.
But still not writing-off nute issue. So close to the end that I don’t want to blow a tire on the last lap. 😁🤣
 
just wondering, I guess, about the pattern of the mottling on some of the leaves...but if there's only a couple of weeks left I'd say just ride it out...
 
Having a closure look at the GWE plant doctor it looks like a calcium issue. I did a water change with fresh bloom nutes and added CalMag. I’m not sure if that was the right thing to do this close to the finish.
 
I doubt it will hurt it. Calcium is not needed as much in flower as its used for cell wall creation in leaves and stems mainly so when i see those in late flower i tend to ignore it. That said, i grow in coco and use RO water so i always use a cal-mag supplement.
 
Just an update on her. Still getting spots on some leaves that are higher up. I think the addition of CalMag has helped a bit. I also dialed back her nutes to half they were before.

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Her sister is also showing signs. Her changes were much more sudden.

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She’s still a few weeks away from harvest

Cheers
YYC
 
YYCannabis .... sorry to add another opinion but like a-holes, we all have one so: the leaves look like a deficiency...if we are thinking lock-out causing deficiency, that lockout can also develop via excessive feeding. chemical fertilizers are salt based and your hydro nutrients maybe loaded? So if it’s not pH fluctuations preventing the uptake of nutrients, it could be excess nutrients causing lock by those salts building up. Thinking a complete pH balanced fresh water change could be a solution.After a few days, you could see that improvement
 
By the way, kept my lights about 18-22” over the canopy but I had two that were poking through the arms and only the leaf touching the diode got crispy. Did not have any really “Light” specific problems. I I really thought I would. I believe the red stalks and stems are something like a sun tan. Maybe a protective process by the plant
 
Farmall girls have been very thirsty lately since adding new lights...which meant more heat which meant more fans. I’ve been adding fresh tap water mid-week (pH adjusted) to the pails then full nute change on weekends. Maybe I’ll cut her nutes back like I did for her sister, and just more pH adjusted water this weekend.
 
If you re up for it, try just plain pH’ed water. I hope that gives you a better solution. YES, these lights create activity within the plant and the do suck up 30-50% more water, which is a double edged sword if your salts are building up in the cell structures, plain water will dilute it down. When I’m in super soil, nothing but water...I get leaves a week or two before their ripe that look like something most gardeners would replace. Deep investigation still seems to point to ph and water practices, too frequent and to high 6.8, the well is 8.4
 
What were and what are your temperatures... I get days when I open the zipper doors and see 76-78 after a 3-5 hour on time and early int the morning 67
 
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Here’s a log for today. The low temp timeframe to the left is lights out period. The massive drop in humidity is when I opened my tent to check on things.
 
Your high temp is a touch over 80 (in my world) so I don’t think your heat is a problem and the humidity seems good although the consensus I read is closer to 50% this alone isn’t causing your leaf problem. I’m hoping the plain water bath will help to re-energize the leaves, clean out any lock and get the plant back on track. They surely have come a long way and will produce nicely. If you notice the fresh water improves the condition, replace that water with fresh water again but start adding low level nutes.... remember, they call it my 2 cents because that may be all it’s worth.
 
Farmall pretty much has this but like he said I have my 2 cents ,I have seen spots like that from my cheep leds to close, also from nute lock out have you flushed them real good .water to runoff and check run off ph and ppm , in coco I will use twice as much flush solution untill I see things change then I reduce it to normal levels on my last flush I recharge the coco with a double feed of cal mag, ok I just went back and saw your dwc ,in the first picture in post it looks like heat and light burn
 
Thanks for the flushing advice. I’ll do that this evening. Since I’m running a DWC setup, is 24 hrs ok or too long for the root flush?
 
Watch the leaf very closely. You won’t want to starve the plants of food especially now that they’re are starting to fatten up the buds. I actually think 24 hours may be enough under these new lights to get some throughput where the plants are drinking and exchanging compounds with the fresh water. I just don’t know but it is a conventional flush and in hydro usually lasts 3 days or so. Point is, you’re not flushing for harvest, you’re trying to vacate nutrient buildup.
 
I’m thinking out loud here BUT, if you have a tds meter, I am wondering if your reading of your fresh water is ‘x’ and after 24 hours would that number be higher based on an exchange between the plant and it’s concentration of salts to the fresh water....sound logical but I don’t know if is likely...???
 
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